LS1 to SBC motor mount plate question - Street and Performance plates too thick?
10-08-2006, 12:42 AM
#1
LS1 to SBC motor mount plate question - Street and Performance plates too thick? Anybody using LS1 to SBC motor mount plates... how thick is the material your plates are made of? I have a set of aluminum ones from Street and Performance and when I was installing my engine, it seemed like the mounts were a little too wide. I know there are a lot of steel plates on the market, and I am wondering if they are a thinner. A thinner plate will cause the engine to sit a little lower in the engine bay and make the mounting points a little narrower In my case that little bit is the difference between hitting and missing the mounting points. Street and Performance advertises that their plates will put the LS1 engine and its engine mounts in the same spot as the SBC, but I'm not so sure.
Anybody have a similar problem? Guys running steel plates - how thick are they??
Thanks, -Dave
Anybody have a similar problem? Guys running steel plates - how thick are they??
Thanks, -Dave
10-09-2006, 10:23 AM
#5
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I'm just gathering information for a future LSx swap project. I also had questions concerning the fit of the motor mounts lining up properly.
Some guys had to drill the motor mount hole larger to get the bolt to go through while other guys had no problem getting the holes to line up.
What size motor mounts do you guys use?
Not being a CHEVY guy, I've found out that Chevy used 3 types/sizes of motor mounts.Left one for the 283 and 327 engine. Center one for 350 engine. Right one for '69 350 and 396 engine.
Maybe the size difference of these mounts could compensate for the thickness of PLATES that are installed.
Some guys had to drill the motor mount hole larger to get the bolt to go through while other guys had no problem getting the holes to line up.
What size motor mounts do you guys use?
Not being a CHEVY guy, I've found out that Chevy used 3 types/sizes of motor mounts.Left one for the 283 and 327 engine. Center one for 350 engine. Right one for '69 350 and 396 engine.
Maybe the size difference of these mounts could compensate for the thickness of PLATES that are installed.
10-09-2006, 11:47 AM
#7
I mounted the S&P plates on my motor and 307 style mounts to the plates then set the motor back around two inches then drew on the frame and drilled new holes. The S&P ones would not fit the holes that were in my frame.
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10-09-2006, 12:50 PM
#8
The S&P plates are the right width for the frame mounts but you have to move the whole thing back almost 2" if your trans is already in the car and in the stock position. Most guys use the trans that came with the LSx engine so they don't move he motor back.
10-09-2006, 03:51 PM
#10
for the older style of SBC motor mount.. they come in two styles..:
1) short and wide (most commond)
2) Tall and narrow
there is 7/16" differ in height, also be aware that the Tall and Narrow is narrower at the frame mount by a 1/4". Energy Suspendsion had them both.. I ended up using the BRP style plates and the Tall and Narrow mounts.
1) short and wide (most commond)
2) Tall and narrow
there is 7/16" differ in height, also be aware that the Tall and Narrow is narrower at the frame mount by a 1/4". Energy Suspendsion had them both.. I ended up using the BRP style plates and the Tall and Narrow mounts.
10-09-2006, 08:18 PM
#11
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I had a problem with the mounts..... here's the thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...4&page=1&pp=20
and a link with mount dimensions....
http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/univ2.html
oh and another thread on Pistonheads where a few of us had this problem
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/t...0&t=248970&h=0
The plates are not to blame, its the mounts. I had the same problem seems everyone does. I originally had the "Tall and Narrow" mounts, but they made the engine "too wide". I switched to the "Short Wide" ones and it fit.
Kinda like I try to convince the girls.... long and think gets right in, but short and thick really does the trick!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...4&page=1&pp=20
and a link with mount dimensions....
http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/univ2.html
oh and another thread on Pistonheads where a few of us had this problem
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/t...0&t=248970&h=0
The plates are not to blame, its the mounts. I had the same problem seems everyone does. I originally had the "Tall and Narrow" mounts, but they made the engine "too wide". I switched to the "Short Wide" ones and it fit.
Kinda like I try to convince the girls.... long and think gets right in, but short and thick really does the trick!
Last edited by crafty888; 10-09-2006 at 08:24 PM.
10-09-2006, 11:17 PM
#12
ahh great info about the Tall and Narrow vs. the Short and Wide... I think I will find a set of Short and Wide engine mounts.. I may have to shim it with a couple of washers but that shouldn't be a problem at all. Thanks for the info! I was having nightmares aboug planing 1/8 of an inch off of my S&P mounts...
-Dave
-Dave
10-09-2006, 11:48 PM
#13
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Mine were still a bit tight, I tried moving the motor around, but couldnt get it so the bolts would just slide in on both sides. I didnt want to elongate the hole, so I lined teh engine up so that one side slid in and put a bolt in that side. Then I ground off the head of a spare bolt, and ground the other end to a point. I put that in the hole on the other side and drove it in with the real bolt. This pulled the engine into position without the need to elongate holes.
10-10-2006, 12:08 AM
#14
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The trick is that you need the right engine mounts. There are dozens of SBC engine mounts that are all very similar. The ones you need are product number 2142. The 2142's have an oval hole that makes them line up just right. I don't know the application that these mounts were originally for, I just went to the auto parts store and they were able to look them up by the number.
10-10-2006, 04:34 AM
#15
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[QUOTE=FastKat]Anybody using LS1 to SBC motor mount plates... how thick is the material your
Hi Cat,
Make your own mounts, that way you get exactly what you want and need.
Nice old jag, i am thinkin about selling my porsche and buy an s-type and stuff in an crate ls7. I´m still in the research stage, with some serious issues to sort before ill throw my self at a new project.
DoC
Hi Cat,
Make your own mounts, that way you get exactly what you want and need.
Nice old jag, i am thinkin about selling my porsche and buy an s-type and stuff in an crate ls7. I´m still in the research stage, with some serious issues to sort before ill throw my self at a new project.
DoC
10-10-2006, 10:42 AM
#16
Also note that once you have the frame mounts in place, you may not be able to just swap from one style mount to the other..as the Tall and Narrow pushes the through bolt out some and may require that you move the frame mount to match the width (and just the opposite for going with the short and wide).
If using the Energy Suspension mount, they come with a re-enforcing plate. it is not really needed as the Adapter plates will function as the re-enforcing plate. But you can use to it to very the height of the engine. As by using the Tall/Narrow vs the Short/Wide mounts by 7/16". By comparing the T/N and S/W and using up to two of the plates, I was able to move the engine up and down by more than 3/4"!
Another suggestion; what I did in order to center (front to back) my engine between the two areas of contact (AC/Heater box/firewall and the Power Steering box/pully) was to narrow the frame mount by 1/2" or so an use spacer to jack the engine back and forth.
If using the Energy Suspension mount, they come with a re-enforcing plate. it is not really needed as the Adapter plates will function as the re-enforcing plate. But you can use to it to very the height of the engine. As by using the Tall/Narrow vs the Short/Wide mounts by 7/16". By comparing the T/N and S/W and using up to two of the plates, I was able to move the engine up and down by more than 3/4"!
Another suggestion; what I did in order to center (front to back) my engine between the two areas of contact (AC/Heater box/firewall and the Power Steering box/pully) was to narrow the frame mount by 1/2" or so an use spacer to jack the engine back and forth.
10-10-2006, 10:53 AM
#17
Originally Posted by bczee
As by using the Tall/Narrow vs the Short/Wide mounts by 7/16". By comparing the T/N and S/W and using up to two of the plates, I was able to move the engine up and down by more than 3/4"!
10-10-2006, 12:19 PM
#19
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Here's a picture I found showing the different engine mount heights. I know they're SOLID MOUNTS but they are supposedly same size as stock Chevy mounts.
It sounds like most guys are having better success with the 283/307 and 327 mounts. Are those the one's that you guys are using? (FAR LEFT SIDE)
It sounds like most guys are having better success with the 283/307 and 327 mounts. Are those the one's that you guys are using? (FAR LEFT SIDE)
