Project to hit the 9 sec on LS1
11-06-2006, 12:59 PM
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Project to hit the 9 sec on LS1 Hi guys, I just purchased 1998 z28 A4 that garage kept and did only 20xxx miles, the car looks great and in excellent condition. I have a workshop with a dynojet in it and I’ve got the EFI live software.
Now I want your ideas and suggestions to take the car to the mid 9s with NOS.
What engine should I use 6 liter blocks (427 or 408 ci) or the stock block (383 or 350ci with forged internals except the crank)?
What exhaust should I use? Cat-back, open headers or true-duals?
What transmission should I run with (4L60 or TH400) and how can I install the 400 in my LS1? (If recommended) what about the drive shaft if went with TH400?
What rear-end that will fit without problems and can handle the POWER?
(FORD 9" or Chevy 12 Bolts)
What nitrous System do you prefer? How much can I spray on the project engine 300 in 2 stages (100 + 200) or more?
What wheels do you recommend (weld or others)?
Tell me any information that you know about any NOS LS1 that runs in 9 or better... any part number that you recommend.
Finally, the most important thing in the f-body to hit the 9 seconds
(THE SUSPENTION) I don't know any thing about what I should use/why and where to get.
Please guys help me in this and will keep updating you.
Note:
All the parts will be purchased through online stores.
Now I want your ideas and suggestions to take the car to the mid 9s with NOS.
What engine should I use 6 liter blocks (427 or 408 ci) or the stock block (383 or 350ci with forged internals except the crank)?
What exhaust should I use? Cat-back, open headers or true-duals?
What transmission should I run with (4L60 or TH400) and how can I install the 400 in my LS1? (If recommended) what about the drive shaft if went with TH400?
What rear-end that will fit without problems and can handle the POWER?
(FORD 9" or Chevy 12 Bolts)
What nitrous System do you prefer? How much can I spray on the project engine 300 in 2 stages (100 + 200) or more?
What wheels do you recommend (weld or others)?
Tell me any information that you know about any NOS LS1 that runs in 9 or better... any part number that you recommend.
Finally, the most important thing in the f-body to hit the 9 seconds
(THE SUSPENTION) I don't know any thing about what I should use/why and where to get.
Please guys help me in this and will keep updating you.
Note:
All the parts will be purchased through online stores.
11-06-2006, 06:08 PM
#3
If you have an all stock Z with 20,XXX miles... don't hack it up. Buy a roller, than you will not feel like **** a couple years down the line.
You are not going to be able to build a reliable 9 second car, by just building an engine and putting nitrous on it - with no build of the tranny, suspension and/or rear-end. --- I said reliable, not a 1 pass car.
Why? to run 9's you are going to have to:
1) Take a bunch of weight out of it (gut the enterior, bumper supports, A/C, etc)
2) Put in a 10-point roll cage, this will really mess up your stock interior
3) Added tons of aftermarket suspension - LCA, K-member, shocks, etc, etc.
After all that is all done, build your engine once - get a nitrous ready engine (if that's what you really want to do). It doesn't really matter, an iron 408 is my choice, with good nitrous internals, heads and cam. Tranny: After market either a T400 or 480e, build for nitrous. Rearend: plan on a 12-bolt or 9" (if you plan on racing a lot just build a 9" right away). Pick the right converter. A great tuner is a must.
It is not cheap or easy to get into the 9's.
You sure you want to do this? Make your decision, daily driver? race/street? race only? Get a budget set up. You can easily spend $15K on a build.
My biggest suggestion would be to get with a shop (one of our sponsors) in your area. Eastside out East; Speed, Stenod or Wheel-to-wheel in the Central, Thunder or Speed in Texas/LA area. There is a lot of great people on this site that are willing to help, BUT they are not going to build or pay for the build. Go to people that are doing the build.
David
You are not going to be able to build a reliable 9 second car, by just building an engine and putting nitrous on it - with no build of the tranny, suspension and/or rear-end. --- I said reliable, not a 1 pass car.
Why? to run 9's you are going to have to:
1) Take a bunch of weight out of it (gut the enterior, bumper supports, A/C, etc)
2) Put in a 10-point roll cage, this will really mess up your stock interior
3) Added tons of aftermarket suspension - LCA, K-member, shocks, etc, etc.
After all that is all done, build your engine once - get a nitrous ready engine (if that's what you really want to do). It doesn't really matter, an iron 408 is my choice, with good nitrous internals, heads and cam. Tranny: After market either a T400 or 480e, build for nitrous. Rearend: plan on a 12-bolt or 9" (if you plan on racing a lot just build a 9" right away). Pick the right converter. A great tuner is a must.
It is not cheap or easy to get into the 9's.
You sure you want to do this? Make your decision, daily driver? race/street? race only? Get a budget set up. You can easily spend $15K on a build.
My biggest suggestion would be to get with a shop (one of our sponsors) in your area. Eastside out East; Speed, Stenod or Wheel-to-wheel in the Central, Thunder or Speed in Texas/LA area. There is a lot of great people on this site that are willing to help, BUT they are not going to build or pay for the build. Go to people that are doing the build.
David
11-06-2006, 07:56 PM
#5
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (33)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Out on the farm in Central IL
Posts: 4,399
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Navy David SS
If you have an all stock Z with 20,XXX miles... don't hack it up. Buy a roller, than you will not feel like **** a couple years down the line.
You are not going to be able to build a reliable 9 second car, by just building an engine and putting nitrous on it - with no build of the tranny, suspension and/or rear-end. --- I said reliable, not a 1 pass car.
Why? to run 9's you are going to have to:
1) Take a bunch of weight out of it (gut the enterior, bumper supports, A/C, etc)
2) Put in a 10-point roll cage, this will really mess up your stock interior
3) Added tons of aftermarket suspension - LCA, K-member, shocks, etc, etc.
After all that is all done, build your engine once - get a nitrous ready engine (if that's what you really want to do). It doesn't really matter, an iron 408 is my choice, with good nitrous internals, heads and cam. Tranny: After market either a T400 or 480e, build for nitrous. Rearend: plan on a 12-bolt or 9" (if you plan on racing a lot just build a 9" right away). Pick the right converter. A great tuner is a must.
It is not cheap or easy to get into the 9's.
You sure you want to do this? Make your decision, daily driver? race/street? race only? Get a budget set up. You can easily spend $15K on a build.
My biggest suggestion would be to get with a shop (one of our sponsors) in your area. Eastside out East; Speed, Stenod or Wheel-to-wheel in the Central, Thunder or Speed in Texas/LA area. There is a lot of great people on this site that are willing to help, BUT they are not going to build or pay for the build. Go to people that are doing the build.
David
You are not going to be able to build a reliable 9 second car, by just building an engine and putting nitrous on it - with no build of the tranny, suspension and/or rear-end. --- I said reliable, not a 1 pass car.
Why? to run 9's you are going to have to:
1) Take a bunch of weight out of it (gut the enterior, bumper supports, A/C, etc)
2) Put in a 10-point roll cage, this will really mess up your stock interior
3) Added tons of aftermarket suspension - LCA, K-member, shocks, etc, etc.
After all that is all done, build your engine once - get a nitrous ready engine (if that's what you really want to do). It doesn't really matter, an iron 408 is my choice, with good nitrous internals, heads and cam. Tranny: After market either a T400 or 480e, build for nitrous. Rearend: plan on a 12-bolt or 9" (if you plan on racing a lot just build a 9" right away). Pick the right converter. A great tuner is a must.
It is not cheap or easy to get into the 9's.
You sure you want to do this? Make your decision, daily driver? race/street? race only? Get a budget set up. You can easily spend $15K on a build.
My biggest suggestion would be to get with a shop (one of our sponsors) in your area. Eastside out East; Speed, Stenod or Wheel-to-wheel in the Central, Thunder or Speed in Texas/LA area. There is a lot of great people on this site that are willing to help, BUT they are not going to build or pay for the build. Go to people that are doing the build.
David
This is a very wise post. You can not have a 9 sec car and plan to drive it every day. I guess you could but it would be a rare exception. You need to plan out the entire build first. Start from the rear of the car and move forward. Get with one of the sponsors and plan it out. Build a solid foundation and THEN add HP. I am a shot away from a 9 sec pass. I will however finish the all motor route first. I think with what I have and a bit of work I can run low 10s or better on a 347 without the bottle. But that is the route I have picked.
Think about the entire combination before you order parts. They will all play off each other.
11-06-2006, 10:00 PM
#6
Originally Posted by Steve Burger
This is a very wise post. You can not have a 9 sec car and plan to drive it every day. I guess you could but it would be a rare exception. You need to plan out the entire build first. Start from the rear of the car and move forward. Get with one of the sponsors and plan it out. Build a solid foundation and THEN add HP. I am a shot away from a 9 sec pass. I will however finish the all motor route first. I think with what I have and a bit of work I can run low 10s or better on a 347 without the bottle. But that is the route I have picked.
Think about the entire combination before you order parts. They will all play off each other.
Think about the entire combination before you order parts. They will all play off each other.
mightymouse (dave) would be that exception (or would have been, depends how you look at it)
11-06-2006, 10:23 PM
#7
Originally Posted by shamha0t
Hi guys, I just purchased 1998 z28 A4 that garage kept and did only 20xxx miles, the car looks great and in excellent condition.
Get one that has already been modded a bunch... or buy a rolling chassis, or buy a car with a trashed motor. To run 9's you'll have to hack up the car a good bit. It would be a shame to desecrate a minty stock car. (I know a bunch of us have done it... myself included... but had I known what my ultimate goal was, like you do, I would have gone another route.)
Trending Topics
11-07-2006, 04:02 AM
#8
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Jamestown, NY
Posts: 680
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
your best bet would be to pick up a cheap v6 car with a trashed motor. You could find one dirt cheap. Your pretty much gonna change everything out in the drivetrain, suspension, interior anyway. Plus insurance is cheaper with a v6, even if it does run 9 seconds.
I was kicking myself for the longest time for not buyng a z28 but once i finally got into my project one thing led to another and its become the current project in my sig. Theres no law agaiinst having a 700hp car on the bottle and paying for v6 insurance
Look for a v6 and start from there.
-john
I was kicking myself for the longest time for not buyng a z28 but once i finally got into my project one thing led to another and its become the current project in my sig. Theres no law agaiinst having a 700hp car on the bottle and paying for v6 insurance
Look for a v6 and start from there.
-john
11-07-2006, 09:13 PM
#10
theres a lot of wise post in this thread I would seriously suggest you take to heart. Every decision you make on the parts you buy for your car are based of what you will be using it for.
first things first, pick what you want to do with the car. Remember 75% of the time the car will get taken farther modified then you first planned.
*street car
*street/strip
*full race
interior
you've already said you want to run 9's at the track so "just street" is already out of the question. since your running 9's youll be needing a 10 point cage. now you just lost your back seat. A 5point haress and stock seats are uncomfortable so I would get a set of corbeau's for any street time. straight drag car i would go aluminum kirkey seat. See what happened? your whole interior just changed as well as a new shifter for your trans if you go anything other then a 4l80e or 60e. this is going to happen to every aspect of the car.moving on.....
drivetrain
you want to run 9's on spray. Ide suggest an iron block 408. Best thing to do is buy a "nitrous ready engine" from one of the sponsers here. go ahead and asume all the pieces of your stock motor will be replaced such as intake, throttle body, heads, fuel rails..etc.
dont mess with the 10 bolt. Get a 12 bolt or 9". a 12bolt will handle your power but I prefer a 9". your gear choice determines if youdrive it on the street as well as if you go with a locker or a spool.
9's is pushing a 4l60e but it has been done. FLT builds a good 60e. I would still build a th400 or powerglide so you dot have to keep replacing transmissions. people do drive th400's on the street. when you buy the converter, call the company so they can spec it out to your combo. yank builds nice convertors. Neal Chance is the best out there when it comes to converters. youll also need a good driveshaft.
fuel/nitrous
you can sump your stock steel tank and run new lines to feed your motor. you can use race gas if you just race the car. if you do run it on pump gas, you can run a small cell up front with race gas for the nitrous system. youll need a better fuel pump, rails, and fuel injectors and bigger fuel lines then stock to do it right. dont run out of fuel on a nitrous car!
for the nitrous, a direct port would be my suggestion. contact nitro dave and talk to him. He will set you up right. hes a sponser here.
exhaust
kooks or qtp headers and true duals dumped before the axle. this setup is louder then a catback however. Moroso spiral flow mufflers would be a good choice if it will be driven on the street.
wheels
if you dont drive it on the street, dont bother getting street wheels. if you do, pick out what you like. for the track, I'de suggest bogarts. others will work with grinding to the calipers.
suspension
call thunder racing and ask for madman. Tell him what your goals are for the car and he will set you up with what to get.
when it all comes down to the end. the only stock thing youll have on your car is the body shell and glass. Believe me. I just put my 02 camaro back stock and I bought a cheap 98 z28 to build a drag car out of. My "street strip" car was on its path to being a drag only car. I stopped while I was ahead and put it back stock before i cut up a good car. Youll end up minitubbing the car.
thats my suggestions on the route to go. it wont be cheap and it wont be easy, but do it right the first time. It's very difficult to build a 9second car that drives like stock and has overdrive. It is possible to build a 3 speed auto car with a cage and a slightly rougher ride then stock however. when you decide to go fast, youll have to give up a little in "streetability".
first things first, pick what you want to do with the car. Remember 75% of the time the car will get taken farther modified then you first planned.
*street car
*street/strip
*full race
interior
you've already said you want to run 9's at the track so "just street" is already out of the question. since your running 9's youll be needing a 10 point cage. now you just lost your back seat. A 5point haress and stock seats are uncomfortable so I would get a set of corbeau's for any street time. straight drag car i would go aluminum kirkey seat. See what happened? your whole interior just changed as well as a new shifter for your trans if you go anything other then a 4l80e or 60e. this is going to happen to every aspect of the car.moving on.....
drivetrain
you want to run 9's on spray. Ide suggest an iron block 408. Best thing to do is buy a "nitrous ready engine" from one of the sponsers here. go ahead and asume all the pieces of your stock motor will be replaced such as intake, throttle body, heads, fuel rails..etc.
dont mess with the 10 bolt. Get a 12 bolt or 9". a 12bolt will handle your power but I prefer a 9". your gear choice determines if youdrive it on the street as well as if you go with a locker or a spool.
9's is pushing a 4l60e but it has been done. FLT builds a good 60e. I would still build a th400 or powerglide so you dot have to keep replacing transmissions. people do drive th400's on the street. when you buy the converter, call the company so they can spec it out to your combo. yank builds nice convertors. Neal Chance is the best out there when it comes to converters. youll also need a good driveshaft.
fuel/nitrous
you can sump your stock steel tank and run new lines to feed your motor. you can use race gas if you just race the car. if you do run it on pump gas, you can run a small cell up front with race gas for the nitrous system. youll need a better fuel pump, rails, and fuel injectors and bigger fuel lines then stock to do it right. dont run out of fuel on a nitrous car!
for the nitrous, a direct port would be my suggestion. contact nitro dave and talk to him. He will set you up right. hes a sponser here.
exhaust
kooks or qtp headers and true duals dumped before the axle. this setup is louder then a catback however. Moroso spiral flow mufflers would be a good choice if it will be driven on the street.
wheels
if you dont drive it on the street, dont bother getting street wheels. if you do, pick out what you like. for the track, I'de suggest bogarts. others will work with grinding to the calipers.
suspension
call thunder racing and ask for madman. Tell him what your goals are for the car and he will set you up with what to get.
when it all comes down to the end. the only stock thing youll have on your car is the body shell and glass. Believe me. I just put my 02 camaro back stock and I bought a cheap 98 z28 to build a drag car out of. My "street strip" car was on its path to being a drag only car. I stopped while I was ahead and put it back stock before i cut up a good car. Youll end up minitubbing the car.
thats my suggestions on the route to go. it wont be cheap and it wont be easy, but do it right the first time. It's very difficult to build a 9second car that drives like stock and has overdrive. It is possible to build a 3 speed auto car with a cage and a slightly rougher ride then stock however. when you decide to go fast, youll have to give up a little in "streetability".
11-08-2006, 04:18 PM
#11
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by TWS
Then for the love of God, leave that virgin Camaro alone!
(God keep the V6 bodys for the LS1 to play in them)
thank you guys for supporting me
Last edited by shamha0t; 11-08-2006 at 04:31 PM.
