RideZX-6R

iTrader: (8)

I was just wondering... what driveshaft and rear are you guys who have done this swap using?
Thanks

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

Most guys that I've seen are running the stock rear (stock at least gearing wise, some have welded up the diff. and some people, don't know about on here, are running limited slip differentials like that of Kaaz etc...) and most are using the driveshaft shop's driveshafts.

HTH!

fouz65

95 j30 diff and a local shop made a steel shaft for me. cost: rear end, $253. shaft, $275

9sec240

I dont have experience with an LS1 in a 240sx yet... but I probably make more HP and TQ than any of the 240 / LS1 swaps out there in my S14.

I have dynoed 720 whp and have run ET / MPH that says I was making 840ish whp. I have two transmissions that I run. A highly modded 300ZX TT AT trans and a full race built C4 with a trans brake. I 60ft in the mid 1.5s with the Z trans and high 1.3s with the C4 off the brake. I have raced the **** out of my car at the track this past summer and put around 3000 miles of street driving on it.

That being said.... I run a bone stock high milage open diff with welded spider gears. The gear ratio is 4.08. I also run DSS driveshafts behind both transmissions. A 3" chromoly one behind the C4 and a 3 1/2" aluminum one behind the Z trans.

9sec240

On another note, to keep your driveline intact, you will need to eliminate wheel hop. The biggest issue on the 240sx is the subframe moving around. The rear subframe is basically held in place with four large studs and nuts thru rubber bushings in the subframe. The bushings allowed for a nice ride when new but now that the cars are a minimum of 10 years old, the bushings are worn out and dry rotted allowing the frame to move around quite a bit. You can hear the subframe hitting the body and mounts during throttle on / off changes or when shifting a manual trans car.

There are a TON of different solid bushings, poly bushings and subframe collars out there to eliminate this issue. A quick search on ebay found 14 different auctions for different styles. I am personally using THESE which basically lock the subframe into place without all the efforts of pulling the old bushings out.

SuperSport4life

iTrader: (7)

Thats a really impressive number you have! Are you running an sr20 or a rb26??? You should post up specs because you sound like you have a bad *** car!!!

cnichols

iTrader: (23)

My guess is 2JZ.

White S14 w/ Weld Magnum Drags? Formerly KA powered?

9sec240

HAHAHAHA.... Everybody always guesses all the motors I dont have... Duy is the guy in Texas with the 2JZ in the white S14. Believe it or not, I stuck with the KA motor.

All the details HERE

fouz65

ya. i knew it was ivan after reading the first post. if i didnt go with the ls1 i would have stayed with the KA. for the last year or 2 i have followed you on ka-t.org and your site (which is kinda why i went ls1). wasnt it duy that had the green 240/ls1 that was on ebay? i heard it was one of the guys over there. not sure, just s/thing i read.

good tip on the bushings. i thought that "poping" sound when i shift was the play in my shaft but at the dyno you can see that subframe move bad.

murphy660

ivan? haha i thought so after seeing "ka"

you plaaning on going ls1?


yea but most people just have a custom one made for now, unless you go with hinson.

9sec240

Yes this is Ivan.

I am still going forward with my KA-T powered car but have a new project that I am working on.

The owners of AMS devided the shop into two teams of 10 people and gave each team a check for 2500 bux and a bunch of parts to use or sell. Each team is supposed to build a budget car to compete in a drag race, road race, and concours. Winning team gets to keep the car they built. We have a maximum budget of 5000 bux to spend. After a lot of brain storming, we decided a lightweight RWD platform with a powerfull V8 would be the way to go.

Knowing the potential of the 240sx platform for drag racing, the featherweight of the car, and the strenght of the stock rear diff and axels, we decided this would be the perfect car. We found a decent condition dissassembled 89 240sx for cheap.

Cruising the classifieds on a bunch of forums, craigslist, ebay etc, we found a 98 Camaro LS1 motor, A4 trans, wire harness, ECU and MAF for a really good deal.

Now the fun part begins...

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

I take it you are turbo240 on the drag240sx forum?

I'm curious, is there any advantage to running the bigger bushing like in this auction:

Link

I hear it's a bitch to get the old bushings out but if I'm making an all out race car would it be worth the effort to get the old bushings out or should I just run the ones like you are running?

Thanks!

icantdrift

iTrader: (1)

the ones you posted are the full replacements and a total bitch to install.... but with what you're doing to the car then they may not be that bad to do. i have some composite/plastic inserts and they do make a major improvement with the rear not hopping.

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

I'm just trying to avoid all flex that I can. I hear that the stock bushing or whatever they are to be called are a bitch to get out like you stated. Pretty much I was told you have to burn them out type thing.

Would the full replacements flex a lot less and is the extra work worth it?

For 9sec240, this is a full out race car that will maybe see the streets for like a fun sunday drive but beyond that it's stripped down, no airbox, fully gutted interior type thing.

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

Speaking of the rear ends on the 240's, Ivan, were you the guy that is beefing them up in a certain spot for they are prone to crack under hard launches? If so, do you have any info on where a person should beef the back rear end structure at?

Thanks!

9sec240

Ted, the only advantage I could see would be weight savings. As mentioned, its a PITA to remove the old bushings but they weigh a bit being a steel sleeve outer, rubber middle and large steel center. If your concerned about weight, they might be the way to go but at the cost of a lot of extra work to install.

The ones I have require dropping the subframe past the studs only. You can actually do one side at a time if the other side is very loose. You will have to remove the struts from the lower mounts and IIRC, possibly Ebrake cables from the body or subframe. Not really too bad. They make C notched uppers in some kits that dont even require getting the subframe past the ends of the studs.

murphy660

for the bushings yes you do have to burn em out. but hell thats the fun part. just drop the subframe burn em out and cut the shell. then put your new ones in....

ive seen someone freeze them to help put em in

9sec240

Actually that would be Mark at Mazworx in FL. He sells a weld on plate for the rear subframe. I belive it welds to the flat spot where the rear diff bolts in from behind with the studs thru the diff cover. Its for an S14 only as it only uses two bolts as the S13 has 4 bolts through the subframe.

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

Nevermind, I found a website that shows how to do it. For those wanting to check out pictures of what it looks like:

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/97924

datboibrad

iTrader: (1)

spl solid subframe bushings > *