Anyone still with QMP turbo kit?
12-25-2006, 07:02 PM
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Anyone still with QMP turbo kit? I'm just curious if anyone is still running the QMP turbo kit. I've been having problems with the manifold cracking (rewelded 3 times), so Brian gave me an OFI turbo kit for Christmas. We are going to try to fix the QMP turbo kit one more time to put on the Mustang project. I would like to know if there is anyone running this kit, what did you do to keep the manifold from cracking?
12-25-2006, 07:34 PM
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Brian built a bracket but unfortunately it didn't really help. We had problems with the manifold cracking in several locations, mainly the rear primary at the header flange and at the log.
12-25-2006, 07:47 PM
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A friend of mine had the QMP kit, and has had nothing but problems with it. Cracked and re-welded several times among other problems. I believe when he took it down to LG earlier this year they scrapped the entire turbo and went with a bigger turbo and new manifold though. He has poured more money into that turbo from QMP trying to make it work correctly and never been successful. I am sure if he could go back in time he would change his decision to have bought the QMP turbo in the first place 
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12-26-2006, 03:03 PM
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The primary is curved all the way to the log, so it'd be nearly impossible to get a slip coupler in there. With enough work anything is possible I suppose 
12-27-2006, 11:06 AM
#15
Originally Posted by Brains
The primary is curved all the way to the log, so it'd be nearly impossible to get a slip coupler in there. With enough work anything is possible I suppose
but if you could fit a small slip joint and do some cuting and welding and some creativity.
another option might be to use a thicker primary tube, maybe some schudel piping.
12-27-2006, 11:40 AM
#16
here is yalls fix after a researh because i was bored at work.
You need to drill a hole on each side of the crack. this will stop the crack from growing anymore. Grind to create a bevel to make sure you have a full pen weld.
Weld with 308L wire if its 304 to 304 mat
If its 304 to carbon incoenl 82 wire.
I am pretty sure that will solve everyones issues because welds do not crack on the heat effected zone for no reason. I am sure the cracking was due not the correct wire or mat issues.
O and brains if you need some wire I might be able to get you a few peices
You need to drill a hole on each side of the crack. this will stop the crack from growing anymore. Grind to create a bevel to make sure you have a full pen weld.
Weld with 308L wire if its 304 to 304 mat
If its 304 to carbon incoenl 82 wire.
I am pretty sure that will solve everyones issues because welds do not crack on the heat effected zone for no reason. I am sure the cracking was due not the correct wire or mat issues.
O and brains if you need some wire I might be able to get you a few peices
12-27-2006, 02:55 PM
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That's the plan... OFI parts are sitting in the box just waiting to be swapped onto Tiff's Camaro... But the old log style will probably make its way onto my LS1 Mustang 
12-27-2006, 11:57 PM
#20
As INSANEgto stated, to properly fix a weldment that is cracked, it must be ground down or routed past the current crack. This can be done with a simple 4.5" grinder, speed wheel or other methods. The KEY here is to get rid of the entire crack.
The material is also an issue IMO. Stainless is good if properly used. However, in this situation, the design suffers.
If you want to continue to use this piece, grind out the length of the crack, make a root pass, then a cover pass to allow ample material penetration. Then, have a few gussets made and tack them on in a few appropriate spots to reinforce the thin metal. In this scenario, I would put a gusset on the other side of the crack...if it will still allow the "log manifold" header to fit within the confines of the engine bay.
The material is also an issue IMO. Stainless is good if properly used. However, in this situation, the design suffers.
If you want to continue to use this piece, grind out the length of the crack, make a root pass, then a cover pass to allow ample material penetration. Then, have a few gussets made and tack them on in a few appropriate spots to reinforce the thin metal. In this scenario, I would put a gusset on the other side of the crack...if it will still allow the "log manifold" header to fit within the confines of the engine bay.