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Popping noise...goes away when #7 coil is unplugged

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Old 12-28-2006, 01:00 PM
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Default Popping noise...goes away when #7 coil is unplugged

Guys,

I have an intermitant popping sound on the driver side bank of cylinders. Zero'd in on the #7 cylinder. When I unplug the #7 coil harness connector...the sound goes away. So I thought the coil was bad(misfiring) , and replaced ...but sound came back. I replaced the plug wire too...still there.... Could this be a gasket leak around the #7 cylinder?....Any other ideas from anyone else?.....

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Old 12-28-2006, 01:11 PM
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The next step would to do a compression test on that cylinder. If it is low then proceed to a leak down gauge test to see where it is leaking from, intake/exhaust.
Old 12-28-2006, 01:16 PM
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Any metal in the oil? #7 is usually the one that goes when an LSx gives it up.
Old 12-28-2006, 01:30 PM
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No metal in the oil (changed it multiple times)....it's a brand new engine (forged 408)...
Old 12-28-2006, 01:53 PM
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if by any chance your running pacesetter headers i would check for a hole in the primary.i had the same deal,a popping or ticking noise narrowed down to 1 cylinder.after weeks of trying to find the cause i found a hole the size of an eraser.probably not your problem,just a thought
Old 12-28-2006, 02:46 PM
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check the plug as well, and the plug gap. it does sound like an exhaust leak of some sort though. make sure the header bolts are tight etc, everything easy first.
Old 12-28-2006, 02:57 PM
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amazing....yes they are pacesetters....I'll check for holes tonight (thanks)...would JB weld work to fill a hole if it exist?..... Also, the gap on my plugs (NGK TR55s) are .060...
Old 12-28-2006, 03:06 PM
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I'm not sure about the JB weld. A friend of mine used it on his exhaust recently, but he used it behind the cat which is obviously not as hot. I'd be inclined to think it would work at least short-term. JB weld has supposedly been used to repair engine blocks, so I'd expect a lot out of it.
Old 12-28-2006, 05:19 PM
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I had the same problem on my new motor. After about 10 hours of run time the header bolts loosened up just enough to make for a small leak on that cylinder. It only made that pop when the coil pack was pluged in. Use a 5/8 or so heater hose. Stick one end down by the primary mating surface to the head and the other end to your ear. For me, it was plan as day when comparing to other cylinders.
Old 12-28-2006, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Gauge
I'm not sure about the JB weld. A friend of mine used it on his exhaust recently, but he used it behind the cat which is obviously not as hot. I'd be inclined to think it would work at least short-term. JB weld has supposedly been used to repair engine blocks, so I'd expect a lot out of it.
negative on using JB weld on a header primary.. if you read the back of the JB weld tubes.. JB weld is only good to 500* F.. so no it will melt that sucker right off..

take it off and have it properly welded
Old 12-28-2006, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by LugNutLS1
I had the same problem on my new motor. After about 10 hours of run time the header bolts loosened up just enough to make for a small leak on that cylinder. It only made that pop when the coil pack was pluged in. Use a 5/8 or so heater hose. Stick one end down by the primary mating surface to the head and the other end to your ear. For me, it was plan as day when comparing to other cylinders.
Chris how is your car running since we got it tuned? You change out that converter yet?

Not sure what type of cam your running in your car but .060 gap on the plugs seems a little excessive.
Old 12-29-2006, 07:07 AM
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i got lucky.my hole was accessable enough to get a welder on it.stupid pacesetters........shoulda gone stainless good luck




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