built tranny and 2500 stall
01-04-2007, 05:48 PM
#1
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built tranny and 2500 stall the guy that is building my tranny(4l60e) is telling me with the built tranny that he is doing he wants to put a 2500 stall and i told him a 3600 to 4000 stall but he still keeps telling me a 2500 stall. what do you think of a built tranny with a 2500 stall and 3.42s/.
01-04-2007, 06:07 PM
#2
If ur not running N20 then get a bigger stall 3,600-4,000 but if u run N20 then get a smaller one like he recommended. Your fuel mileage will go down about the same because they will both be lockup converters so just go with which one u would rather have!!!
01-04-2007, 06:22 PM
#3
2500 stall is too small for Nitrous and it is too small for NA on an LS1.
With 2.73s you will find that a 4000 is VERY loose. With 3.42s it will feel much better.
3500 is a pretty good choice for a street car. A lot depends on how you plan to use the car and tires you will get.
With 2.73s you will find that a 4000 is VERY loose. With 3.42s it will feel much better.
3500 is a pretty good choice for a street car. A lot depends on how you plan to use the car and tires you will get.
01-04-2007, 09:33 PM
#4
+1 for at least a 3500. I currently have a Yank ST3500 and am upgrading to a Yank SS4000 because the 3500 just isn't enough. The general rule of thumb is to decide what you want and go one size higher. In my case, it still wasn't enough. I wanted a 3200 so I went with the 3500. Can't wait for that big dog!
01-04-2007, 09:49 PM
#5
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Another vote for 3500. Its your transmission. Go with a QUALITY converter and a cooler.
Don't waste your time with 2500, and don't do it at all if hes gonna build it himself.
Don't waste your time with 2500, and don't do it at all if hes gonna build it himself.
01-04-2007, 11:02 PM
#6
In our recent experience, an LS1 with, Eagle rotating assy, nice heads and cam and producing 445 rwhp really likes a loose converter with the 4.11's out back... even with a small 100 shot, spraying through the gears. We are running a custom 10 1/2", 3800 stall unit that feels loose as can be while driving, but appears to be robbing too much torque in mid rpm's at WOT. As much as 15-20% torque loss can be verified, we would like to see that number closer to 10%. We are going to restall it next week and see what happens.
Ideally you should be matching the stall to the power band of you engine /gear / tire combination. But, as we all know that is usually a moving target... nobody keeps the same gear or cam for extended periods anymore. So, in a stock configuration you will be much happier with a stall around 3200 - 3600 rpm. With that tall of a gear you need to get the engine rpm's up for the launch and then for the duration of the pull. And if you do any engine mods in the future you'll have enough converter to work with most likely.
g
Ideally you should be matching the stall to the power band of you engine /gear / tire combination. But, as we all know that is usually a moving target... nobody keeps the same gear or cam for extended periods anymore. So, in a stock configuration you will be much happier with a stall around 3200 - 3600 rpm. With that tall of a gear you need to get the engine rpm's up for the launch and then for the duration of the pull. And if you do any engine mods in the future you'll have enough converter to work with most likely.
g
