Daredevil_TA

iTrader: (6)

With good supporting mods and a set of heads of course, the cam is a GT2-3 from Lingenfelter, i'd like to have a stock sounding 400 rwhp daily driver. I see quite abit in the 360-370 range just wondering if anyone has reached the 400 mark with this cam. If anyone has: what set of heads and valvetrain are you using? thanx in advance

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

I havent seen one.

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

Stock sounding and 400 rwhp is gonna be hard to come by. In order to reach that goal I'd think you'd need a cam in the 220 duration region with a fairly large LSA (114) on some pretty aggressive lobes (something like XER, but not LSK as I'm not sure those could sound close to stock) with at least some shorty headers, and some pretty damn good flowing heads to match whatever cam you go with (not to mention an intake to match, whether it be LS6 or even a 90/90 combo).

Rob

iTrader: (6)

Yes you can. I made 393/380 in my goat with GMPP LS6 65cc heads. With a little bump in compression and less HP loss in an F-Body, easily done.

Mods at the time were Dynatech long tubes with cats into the stock cat back, SLP pulley, Speed Inc CAI, Tune, and cam/heads.

PREDATOR-Z

Yes it can be done in M6, bump compression (with ported/milled heads), quench, degreing cam, LT headers, LS6 intake, ported TB, free flow exhaust etc...

cowboysfan

I would like to hear it! any body got a video of this cam sounding like stock.



fuerzaws6

Rob

iTrader: (6)

That's just it...it does sound stock. Nobody will ever be able to tell you changed the cam. You can park the two same cars side by side idling and there is no difference.

Daredevil_TA

iTrader: (6)

hey Rob i did a search an found out you changed that cam because your gas mileage was bad, didn't you say the heads flowed a little too much for it?

onebadrubi

That cam sounds like stock in a 5.3l. I have my truck 5.3l with just LT's and 40series idling at 550 to hear it chop just a bit. you pu tthe idle at 700-750 its STOCK! The 5.7l is gonna eat up the chop even more. It will sound stock.

Hp I have no idea!

Daredevil_TA

iTrader: (6)

I don't mean to sound like a newb but what exactly is "quench" again? I know it has to do with head gasket thickness and deck height but thats about all i know, and how much can you bump up stock compression before detonation becomes a problem?

FWIW these are going to be my supporting mods for this setup
FTRA
MTI Lid
Shaner S3 TB
Fernco SB
ported LS6 intake
Pacesetter LT's W/ORY
Hooker CB

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

The quench distance is the compressed thickness of the head gasket plus the deck height, (the distance your piston is down in the bore). If your piston height, (not dome height), is above the block deck, subtract the overage from the gasket thickness to get a true assembled quench distance. The quench area is the flat part of the piston that would contact a similar flat area on the cylinder head if you had .000" assembled quench height. In a running engine, the .035" quench decreases to a close collision between the piston and cylinder head. The shock wave from the close collision drives air at high velocity through the combustion chamber. This movement tends to cool hot spots, average the chamber temperature, reduce detonation and increase power. Take note, on the exhaust cycle, some cooling of the piston occurs due to the closeness to the water cooled head.

nyteryder167

iTrader: (10)

I would say it's possible with a good set of heads. FWIW, I'm at 382 rwhp (90* on dyno day), mods in sig, cam specs are 222/222 .561 114LSA, STOCK heads with 918 springs and pushrods. I would imagine if I bolted on a set of heads, I'd hit 400. Car sounds somewhat stock, you can tell it's been modded, but it doesn't shake or lope hard at idle.

Daredevil_TA

iTrader: (6)

okay, thanx for clearing that up brad-so i would want to run some what of a thin head gasket then, is it safe to run thinner than .035?

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

The piston is out of the hole .006 on a stock block, so you should go with a .040 gasket like most people do, that puts quench at .034 and you shouldnt have to worry about PTV crashes.

Daredevil_TA

iTrader: (6)

okay, how much would this raise compression ratio?

Rob

iTrader: (6)

That's my guess. I was getting 30mpg on the highway and 25mpg average before the head swap. After, I could hardly get 25mpg on the highway and 21mpg average. With the new cam, I'm back up to 27mpg on the highway and 23mpg average.

The GMPP heads are rather large, especially for that cam. I would go with any other vendor's heads before doing the GMPP heads again. Probably pick up more and wouldn't have taken a hit on gas mileage.

Daredevil_TA

iTrader: (6)

so what heads would you suggest then? do you remember what those GMPP heads flowed at .600 lift? just don't want to run into the same kind of problem you did, thanx again Rob

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

I would have to point you towards the TFS 215's. Get ready to pay though. LS6 heads are a good budget bang. Just like a sick hooker.

Daredevil_TA

iTrader: (6)

yea i know what you mean, arent they over 2 grand a pair fully assembled? I was wanting to get LS6 heads but i'd really like to get 400 rwhp with this cam, anyone else have any input?

onebadrubi

try this combo on a set of stock ls6 heads. If you get close to 375rwhp then you know a set of heads will put you at or damn close to 400. And then they may justify the cost. But You would really be upset to dump anywhere from 1300-2000 on a set of heads and then the cam to only then put you at 375 or so? But then all you would have to do is pull the cam out and swap it for somethign bigger to get you whereever you wanted.