1fastz28nx

iTrader: (18)

Quick question guys, I'm going to order some ProStars and I was wondering what else I need. Do I need wheel spacers for anything? Longer Wheel studs? What lug nuts do I get?

Any help would be greatly appriciated!!!

2_wacko

iTrader: (2)

For the front use a 5/16 spacer with longer studs. Also get some washers to go along with the lugs.

JoeyAnderson

iTrader: (20)

When we installed my Welds, I wanted to be able to quickly swap out to my ZR1s and still be able to use the lugnut covers, so the extended studs weren't an option. I ordered the McGard No Rust shank lug nuts & washers (part number 63016) and started grinding on the calipers. We got the front and the rear to fit without spacers.

I'm running Bogarts now, so if you're interested in saving yourself the hassle of grinding your calipers, I'd be happy to trade your untouched stockers for my weld-ready calipers.

1fastz28nx

iTrader: (18)

Did you run a 3.5" or a 4" in the front. I'm planning on running the 4" so I can "legally" run it on the street. Just curious if you ground enough for the 4" wide.

Ls1Bait

^^^^^^^^^^Is it illegal to run a 3.5'' front tire on the street???

1fastz28nx

iTrader: (18)

Well, if you go to Jegs and look at the different wheel widths, the 3.5" say "NOT DOT APPROVED" That's all I meant by it.

JoeyAnderson

iTrader: (20)

I ran a 3.5" front wheel - no cop is going to harass you over a half an inch.

SLPSS99

iTrader: (7)

I have had my 3.5" skinnies on the street for a couple years no hassel from the cops, and how will they prove it dismount you tire and measure There are a lot of things that are not street legal that people use and never get in trouble for be a bad *** and get the 3.5"!!!!

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

i herd that the jegs 15x4 fit with out grinding

LS69TA

iTrader: (30)

They're stamped "NOT DOT APPROVED" on the rims. You won't have any caliper left if you grind and try to run the Weld 15x4s. I haven't heard of anybody using the Jegs wheels yet personally, but I figure somebody will try them sooner or later. I may get a set of theirs for my boat trailer though .

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

more info about ls1 cars using the 15x4 from jegs
https://ls1tech.com/forums/wheels-tires/552034-just-saw-jegs-sport-star-15-x-4-wheels-do-they-fit.html

LS69TA

iTrader: (30)

Cool. I must have missed that thread somehow.

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

Those wheels are not drag wheels by any stretch of the imagination. It is evident by the 60 degree tapered holes. They are a imitation drag wheel. I'd imagine they are VERY heavy as well...like how the weld XP's were. I'm surprized Harbor Freight doesn't carry them...lol

I'd like to know the weights of them, they are probably china take-offs that are in the 16-18lb range for a skinny wheel . The rears are probably ~20 lbs. This takes away many benefits of running skinnies and 15" setups for the rear.

Why loose steering ability for a skinny wheel that is an attempt to be "like a drag wheel" without the benefits of being one. Why choose a rear fake drag wheel that uses acorn style lugs when sheering studs are a larger probability. If you want an economy style wheel, stick with the weld's prostar...

...I suppose if you only want the car to look like a drag car without any of the weight benefits with poor handling to boot, then those may be the ticket.

Once again, if you want an economy style wheel, stick with the weld Prostars.

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

thanks for pointing that out, ill go with welds

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

Good choice. Probably the best regarding economy wheels.

If you want a direct fit wheel which doesn't need spacer etc and will knock off another ~50lbs of converted static weight, our Bogarts are the best choice. I designed the setups for direct fitment on your car, no spacers, no grinding needed. We also offer as a "thank you" for using our Bogart wheels, non-public, exclusive pricing for all Strange Engineering products.

Good luck on your choices:-).

juiced_z28

iTrader: (12)

Jegstars front 15x4 is 17 lbs and Im not interested. I plan on buying bogarts later when I go full race with my car. For now I am going with Welds.

Anyone notice how hard it is to get a straight answer on here?

So you only need longer studs IF you use spacers CORRECT?

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

Those look-alike wheels are heavy aren't they! About the only benefits are they "look" like race wheels.

For the welds, you need longer studs no matter what... at least 2.5". If your running spacers, you need 3.25" studs.

Don't be surprized when you run your stock wheels or aftermarket street wheel that they will look very odd with super long studs.

juiced_z28

iTrader: (12)

Thanks Steve for the reply. I stayed up all night researching and found that if you dont run anything thicker than a 5/16" spacer you can still run the long GM studs. They are 3.14" overall and 2.67" from the flange. Lingenfelter "performance" sells them for $3 each ($60 per set). GM Performance Parts Direct sells them for $1.46 each. You can figure out who I ordered from. Lingenfelter isnt worth **** IMO. Overpriced and their head jobs suck as well.

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

You're welcome. I think you'll find if you're using spacers, you'll need 3.25" studs, you cannot go shorter. You need the threaded portion to go 12mm into the hex portion of the lug so it is a pretty simple calculation. Weld prostars are super thick at the stud area. Adding a spacers makes it VERY thick.

If you look at a 2.67" stud, there is ~1/2" that is not threaded. You need the diameter of the stud to THREAD into the hex portion of the lug. I'd honestly go with the 3.25" studs.

Stangkilr

iTrader: (47)

Im bringing this thread back up top. I bought Weld Pro-stars for the rear and the Summit star wheels for the front just so id have something to match w/o having to grind on the front. Alot of guys are doing this. Its not a bad idea IMO if you not worried about the 5lb difference for the front skinny.