Best Components for Sustained RPM? Drift/Road Race
#1
Best Components for Sustained RPM? Drift/Road Race
I have been Drifting and Road racing localy with my 400whp Skyline powered Nissan 240sx, well recently I crunched it up at a local event and now im building another Nissan 240sx but the new power is coming from a 01' LS1 M6 out of a 65k mile Trans Am.
The help I need is every post I read someone suggests something different and I need something totaly differnt!
Specs & info:
~What Cam should I run? This is a TRACK car only and will be run between 3500-redline
~What springs & pushrods do you all recommend? Rockers?
~What oil pump?
~Do I need to do rod bolts?
~2800lb car
~I will NOT be pulling the heads or replacing pistons stock internals for NOW.
I know I will need to do a LS2 timing chain.
Please advise with relistic advice!
Here is some eye candy from one of our Phoenix International Raceway events:
Thanks, Jon
The help I need is every post I read someone suggests something different and I need something totaly differnt!
Specs & info:
~What Cam should I run? This is a TRACK car only and will be run between 3500-redline
~What springs & pushrods do you all recommend? Rockers?
~What oil pump?
~Do I need to do rod bolts?
~2800lb car
~I will NOT be pulling the heads or replacing pistons stock internals for NOW.
I know I will need to do a LS2 timing chain.
Please advise with relistic advice!
Here is some eye candy from one of our Phoenix International Raceway events:
Thanks, Jon
#4
Update, I talked to TSP today the guy Jason over there knows what im looking for he recommended the Torquer V.2 cam with their new PRC Platinum spring kit with ti retainers & pushrods. Cam Specs: 232/234 .595/.598
Does that sound good to you guys?
~Jon
Does that sound good to you guys?
~Jon
#5
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G5x3, G5x4, MS3/4, Trex are all cams you should look at, Comp hardend pushrods, patriot dual gold springs, stock rockers, TSP ported LS6 pump, LS2 timing chain, Katech rod bolts..
most importantly, when you drift or go on a road course, put an extra quart of oil in the pan.
if you want to seriously take no shortcuts, you need a dry sump setup.
most importantly, when you drift or go on a road course, put an extra quart of oil in the pan.
if you want to seriously take no shortcuts, you need a dry sump setup.
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But if you don't want a Dry sump system Canton makes a 6.5 QUART Road Race Oil pan for LS1/LS6 engines. Regarding the rockers I would use stock but have them rebuild by Harlan before you install them. As far as the cam, if the G5x4, MS3/4, or Trex are to big, I think the Torquer V2 is a good choice or go with a custom ground cam. Check with Patrick G he's been putting some great setups together. I haven't gone to the Road Course with my MS4 yet, so I can make a proof positive recomendation, but from what I can tell from the street it is going to be decent.
#7
will I have to dish my pistons or "fly cut" them with either the MS4 or Torquer 2?
Im trying to keep the bottom end stock...
And I talked to an engine builder friend of mine he does not recommend just replacing the bolts he said i should do bearings at the same time but I really dont want to go that far...
Im trying to keep the bottom end stock...
And I talked to an engine builder friend of mine he does not recommend just replacing the bolts he said i should do bearings at the same time but I really dont want to go that far...
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#9
Im used to power kicking in this is my old setup: Nissan Skyline R34 RB25det Neo with T3/TO4E turbo Tial 44mm Wastegate and 650cc injectors, Z32 maf. This was a Straight 6cyl 2.5ltr. Made 419WHP 429Wft/lbs
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the big cams i mentioned would put down more hp with stock heads, and without fly cutting
you can replace your rod bolts with 0 problems, just dont mix up the bearing caps (obviously) and make sure to remove the ferruls. id remove one cap at a time, keeping the bearing on the crank, pull the cap off, remove ferruls, put cap back on, put rod bolts back in and torque down as instructed.
a G5x4 with stock 243 heads would put down much more than 450rwhp
you can replace your rod bolts with 0 problems, just dont mix up the bearing caps (obviously) and make sure to remove the ferruls. id remove one cap at a time, keeping the bearing on the crank, pull the cap off, remove ferruls, put cap back on, put rod bolts back in and torque down as instructed.
a G5x4 with stock 243 heads would put down much more than 450rwhp
#11
Originally Posted by Cop Car
the big cams i mentioned would put down more hp with stock heads, and without fly cutting
you can replace your rod bolts with 0 problems, just dont mix up the bearing caps (obviously) and make sure to remove the ferruls. id remove one cap at a time, keeping the bearing on the crank, pull the cap off, remove ferruls, put cap back on, put rod bolts back in and torque down as instructed.
a G5x4 with stock 243 heads would put down much more than 450rwhp
you can replace your rod bolts with 0 problems, just dont mix up the bearing caps (obviously) and make sure to remove the ferruls. id remove one cap at a time, keeping the bearing on the crank, pull the cap off, remove ferruls, put cap back on, put rod bolts back in and torque down as instructed.
a G5x4 with stock 243 heads would put down much more than 450rwhp
Who sells the G5x4 ? who makes it?
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Lg Motorsports sells the G5X series of cams
Katech sells replacement rod bolts for ls1's , they are a exact copy of stock but made stronger. So no need for resizing http://www.katechengines.com/street_...etail.php?id=5
Katech sells replacement rod bolts for ls1's , they are a exact copy of stock but made stronger. So no need for resizing http://www.katechengines.com/street_...etail.php?id=5
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LGmotorsports is a sponsor to the right --> i belive the website is LGmotorsports.com i think.
the owner posts quite frequently, and is most helpful and insightful about the LSx motors
the owner posts quite frequently, and is most helpful and insightful about the LSx motors
#14
What does everyone think of TSP?
I have seen LG's site but they dont seem to have packages that fit my needs at a good price point.
And when doing rod bolts do you just retorque to OE specs?
I have seen LG's site but they dont seem to have packages that fit my needs at a good price point.
And when doing rod bolts do you just retorque to OE specs?
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Nothing wrong with TSP. Great prices, great products. You wont see that kind of a spike without a turbo but you can achieve 400+rwhp cam only. Ringlands fail on these engined long before rods bolts do. Your going with a used 01 ls6. Not sure how much you have into it so I cant really say if changing the rods bolts is a good idea. ls1 short blocks are inexpensive these days and can be had for less than 3k. Its not like the rod bolts are big money either but why bother if something else stands a better chance of breaking first? Just my thought. I had my SB built with ARP's throughout.
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Originally Posted by R34RB25
will I have to dish my pistons or "fly cut" them with either the MS4 or Torquer 2?
Im trying to keep the bottom end stock...
And I talked to an engine builder friend of mine he does not recommend just replacing the bolts he said i should do bearings at the same time but I really dont want to go that far...
Im trying to keep the bottom end stock...
And I talked to an engine builder friend of mine he does not recommend just replacing the bolts he said i should do bearings at the same time but I really dont want to go that far...
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for added insurance.. (i road racing at Miller Motorsports Park here in UT).. i would put in an oil cooler. You can use the plug above the oil filter.. Katech or Lingenfelter make an adapter to mount there.. its about $99... i used a plate type cooler which will hold an extra 1 qt of oil.. my oil temps rarely get to 220 going all out for 15mn sessions. (using 10w-30 mobil 1).