GIGAPUNK

iTrader: (2)

I'm rebuilding my T56 and have no flywheel, clutch or pressure plate yet. I've been leaning towards getting an aftermarket LS2 flywheel and pressure plate, and then a stock LS7 clutch (pressuming there's a part number for just the disc, so far I can only find the part number for the disc with the pressure plate). Spec makes both a billet steel and aluminum flywheel, as well as an aluminum pressure plate that their tech claimed was approx. 7 lbs lighter than a stock pressure plate and had a slightly higher clamping pressure. I was leaning towards the steel (even though it's a few pounds heavier: Spec ls2 flywheel is Al 14#, and Steel is 22#) because I'm afraid of the aluminum warping during an endurance event. But then again I dig the replaceable inserts that come only with an Aluminum flywheel. I'd like to save the weight for road racing, but not at an added risk of warpage. Is this a reasonable cause for concern?

FYI: stock flywheel weights-
Stock LS1 (2004 GTO) - 49lbs
Stock LS7 (2006 Z06) - 57lbs
Stock Mustang (2003 Cobra) - 11lbs

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

The flywheel is the one thing you should not be looking to lighten up, i.e. aluminum, If the flywheel is super the light the rpm tend to drop very quickly which makes it a PITA to drive on the street, sure people have done it but your better off with a billet steel unit. Although it seems like this is a 100% auto x car, and as long as you dont let the rpms drop there may be an advantage.

Having a FI car that responds to hugh gains in the mid to upper rpms that need to make full boost asap will benefit from a lighter wheel.

Every where else in the drive line and valve train will benefit from lighter components but stick with the steel flywheel.

If you decided to go alumium, please post about the manners of the car.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

One question...are your observations of how an aluminum flywheel behaves based on personal experience, or hearsay?

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Personal, friends car. 02 z28, m6 with a mild cam, bolt ons on a 10 bolt. It was It like to bog unless you tached up the rpms, this is in city driving. Rotational weight matters, you can go crazy and get a aluminum center section for the rear, or a spool, Carbon Fiber DS, Ti Bolts, Ti Retainers, lightened valves, aluminum rods. These things help but for the flywheel it needs the weight to carry the momentum.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Well, at least you aren't like half of the people that will weigh in with an opinion that have never even looked at one (much less driven it). After having driven mine for quite a while now (5-6 months or so) every day, it did take a while to get used to it, but I wouldn't trade it for a heavier setup for the world. I might change my mind if I had a cam that lost its low end...but for my setup, it works great.

Ace$nyper

iTrader: (8)

Wow, what magicly makes a car with that kind of low end power suck to drive while I can daily a 8.8lb flywheel honda that only peaks 140 ft lbs at a bit over 5K?

00silver6

iTrader: (4)

i just got the aluminum flywheel and new spec 3+ from thunder Racing im very happy with it i was concerned about rpm's dropping but its not the case although i do notice the diffrence on how when shifting rpm's drop a little faster than before but i wouldnt trade that for the faster reving i cant wait till it gets broken in

Ace$nyper

iTrader: (8)

For every action there is a well you know where i'm going with this


Also no even with many track days and auto Xs i've yet to warp one heck its been maybe 4 years since changing it and i've changed clutches a few times.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

I have an AL flywheel with spec 4 and im happy. I acually want an even lighter setup.