OFI 4" downpipe with stock accessories!!!
02-17-2007, 02:30 PM
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OFI 4" downpipe with stock accessories!!! Well I finally got around to finishing up the mockup of the 4" downpipe. The downpipe is all stainless steel with a cone reducer from 5" to 4". Comes with the flange and v-band clamp to attach to the turbo. Will use a 4" band clamp to connect to the test of the exhaust. I had to order one sense no part stores around me had them in stock.
Some mods that need to be done to make it fit are...The alt looses the back mounting bracket and you must cut the tab off the back of the alt to make it fit better. I didnt cut the alt that I have here in the shop b/c this one is not getting this setup. If you cut it you will gain more room and it will not touch anything. From the pics the steering rack is off in the pics. When you cut that tab you can fit the sterring shaft on the rack with room to spare.
The swaybar will fit with the 3/8 spacers that I provide with the kit. The swaybar bracket on the driverside will have to be modifed also. Will have details on that when you order the setup.
You will have to make custom power steering lines unless you want to just bend your factory ones to make them fit. Its up to you for that. Agian I didnt do that sense this car is not getting this setup.
This Downpipe will be made in house by hand from the turbo to the " I " pipe.
Upgrade price for this setup is going to be $495 for the first section. Which stops right in front of the trans. You can have it connect to a 3.5" or 4" pipe to the " I " pipe the rest of the way. I would recommend the 3.5" for lowered cars...cause this 4" is big! This is also done with the UMI K-memeber. I have no ides right now if the stock would fit. The UMI one is a real nice setup. Gives you romm to work.
Some mods that need to be done to make it fit are...The alt looses the back mounting bracket and you must cut the tab off the back of the alt to make it fit better. I didnt cut the alt that I have here in the shop b/c this one is not getting this setup. If you cut it you will gain more room and it will not touch anything. From the pics the steering rack is off in the pics. When you cut that tab you can fit the sterring shaft on the rack with room to spare.
The swaybar will fit with the 3/8 spacers that I provide with the kit. The swaybar bracket on the driverside will have to be modifed also. Will have details on that when you order the setup.
You will have to make custom power steering lines unless you want to just bend your factory ones to make them fit. Its up to you for that. Agian I didnt do that sense this car is not getting this setup.
This Downpipe will be made in house by hand from the turbo to the " I " pipe.
Upgrade price for this setup is going to be $495 for the first section. Which stops right in front of the trans. You can have it connect to a 3.5" or 4" pipe to the " I " pipe the rest of the way. I would recommend the 3.5" for lowered cars...cause this 4" is big! This is also done with the UMI K-memeber. I have no ides right now if the stock would fit. The UMI one is a real nice setup. Gives you romm to work.
02-17-2007, 04:19 PM
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looking great buddy. With your cross over pipes and location of the turbo, can you retain the factory radiator or do you need a custom radiator? also w/ the location of the turbo, can the oil line be gravity fed back to the oil pan or do you have to buy a scavenging pump?
shoot me some prices w/ the cross over pipes for the t6, support bracket and 4in DP b/c i'm really interested. :beer:
shoot me some prices w/ the cross over pipes for the t6, support bracket and 4in DP b/c i'm really interested. :beer:
02-17-2007, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by black98ws6ta
That looks like it will have clerance problems where the downpipe goes under the floorpan of the car.
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02-17-2007, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by UMI Performance
Looks excellent Joel, Glad to the K-Member worked out
Will have some numbers for all you guys in the next couple weeks with this setup and a 4" DP.
02-17-2007, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by TINKRD
looking great buddy. With your cross over pipes and location of the turbo, can you retain the factory radiator or do you need a custom radiator? also w/ the location of the turbo, can the oil line be gravity fed back to the oil pan or do you have to buy a scavenging pump?
shoot me some prices w/ the cross over pipes for the t6, support bracket and 4in DP b/c i'm really interested. :beer:
shoot me some prices w/ the cross over pipes for the t6, support bracket and 4in DP b/c i'm really interested. :beer:
Will shoot you a pm.
02-17-2007, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by TINKRD
looking great buddy. With your cross over pipes and location of the turbo, can you retain the factory radiator or do you need a custom radiator? also w/ the location of the turbo, can the oil line be gravity fed back to the oil pan or do you have to buy a scavenging pump?
shoot me some prices w/ the cross over pipes for the t6, support bracket and 4in DP b/c i'm really interested. :beer:
shoot me some prices w/ the cross over pipes for the t6, support bracket and 4in DP b/c i'm really interested. :beer:
02-18-2007, 08:15 PM
#14
looks good.
now there will be more people with a four inch downpipe, and to think i started it all (/sarcastic)
id like to see it finished hopefully it wont strape with it crossing over the driveshaft, think you could run oval pipe on the driver side to the back?
now there will be more people with a four inch downpipe, and to think i started it all (/sarcastic)
id like to see it finished hopefully it wont strape with it crossing over the driveshaft, think you could run oval pipe on the driver side to the back?
02-19-2007, 07:36 AM
#17
Originally Posted by cablebandit
Smokinhawk, if i get one, i will run a cutout right off the 4" on the drivers side and the small junk to crossover and to the catback. I think ill get your bracket and move the alternator as well
and moving the alternator up top might help you out clearance wise and prevent it from getting any heat, plus its easier to work on with it up there.
02-19-2007, 01:16 PM
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hey joel, you mentioned that we will need to modify the power steering lines. Will the bends be enough to cause failure in the lines or can they be bent and not worry about having a leak.
I ask because i have never done anything like that, modifying hard lines, and wanted to know if i should just go ahead and get a new set of lines or just deal with what i have already. Is there a specific tool, like a small mandrel bending tool, to do the job right?
I ask because i have never done anything like that, modifying hard lines, and wanted to know if i should just go ahead and get a new set of lines or just deal with what i have already. Is there a specific tool, like a small mandrel bending tool, to do the job right?
