Engine Knock/Tick . . . What could it be?
#1
Engine Knock/Tick . . . What could it be?
i've heard a slight knockin about a month ago and now its getting a lot worse. I was on my way to my ladies house tonight and said, "forget this", drove back home and took the envoy. It sounds really bad (in my opinion) . . . i noticed before that it usually happens when i have around 35 psi of oil at idle, . . at 40 and up on idle, the noise is not there. . tonight's knocking was the worst it has sounded, really clear, loud tapping and the ticking rolls faster with revs, . . . its 3:57 in the mornin so don't flame if my thread sounds like a 5 year old girl wrote this, . . im tired
thanx
thanx
#4
TECH Resident
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I would check the easy stuff first.
1) Exhaust leaks
2) Loose rocker arms
3) Loose spark plugs
4) Cracked or damaged balancer
You can also probe the engine with a mechanics stethascope.
Another old school trick to locate engine noises, was to cut a piece of broom stick about 24'' long and hold one end to your ear while touching various places on the running engine with the other end.
1) Exhaust leaks
2) Loose rocker arms
3) Loose spark plugs
4) Cracked or damaged balancer
You can also probe the engine with a mechanics stethascope.
Another old school trick to locate engine noises, was to cut a piece of broom stick about 24'' long and hold one end to your ear while touching various places on the running engine with the other end.
#5
33k on the clock, all stock internal and bottom end, . i've tried holding a metal rod while tryin to locate the source and i can not find it, . . haven't touched the spark plugs recently and it doesn't sound like an exhaust leak because my mechanic had it up and the sound was coming from the internals
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#8
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to check for internal rod bearing damage.
Loosen all plug wires. Crank engine until operation to where the noise is the loudest/constant. One at a time remove the wire off the plug. If the noise is still there than reinstall the wire. If you remove the wire from a cylinder and the noise goes away/quietens down then you have a rod/piston problem. If you go thru this procedure and the noise is still there than you may have other problem. I have done this procedure on multiple engine to determine if it is bottom end of top end noise. Try and see what you find out.
Removing the fire off the rod/piston assy relieves the pressure off the bearing. that makes the rod/piston assy just float on the crank. Since it is floating it will not produce the loud knocking noise.
Since you have narrowed it down to the pass side than just do that side. That will save you lots of time.
Loosen all plug wires. Crank engine until operation to where the noise is the loudest/constant. One at a time remove the wire off the plug. If the noise is still there than reinstall the wire. If you remove the wire from a cylinder and the noise goes away/quietens down then you have a rod/piston problem. If you go thru this procedure and the noise is still there than you may have other problem. I have done this procedure on multiple engine to determine if it is bottom end of top end noise. Try and see what you find out.
Removing the fire off the rod/piston assy relieves the pressure off the bearing. that makes the rod/piston assy just float on the crank. Since it is floating it will not produce the loud knocking noise.
Since you have narrowed it down to the pass side than just do that side. That will save you lots of time.
#11
what? so turn the engine on and remove the spark plugs one by one? call me a noob, but isn't that toyin with the engine?
James
More info, . . noise is still there, . it does not go away when warmed up like some people have told me, (locals). Imma take the damn thing to the dealer . . but i'll try that spark plug routine if anyone can verify that information.
James
More info, . . noise is still there, . it does not go away when warmed up like some people have told me, (locals). Imma take the damn thing to the dealer . . but i'll try that spark plug routine if anyone can verify that information.