98RedBird

iTrader: (77)

Im wanting to get an LS6 intake and a Yank SS3800 or SS4000 stall very soon, along with a tune to add to my list of mods. I would like to get into the low 12's. I'm at a high 12 now so I figure that isn't too much of a stretch of the imagination, right?

The one thing that I'm very worried about though is the rear end. I know that autos are easier on the rear than the M6 guys are but doesn't the stall kind of negate that softness a little? If I were to buy a 4000 isn't that like dropping the clutch at like 4 grand? And isn't dropping the clutch at like 4 grand just begging for a grenaded rear end? If so, I will hold off on the stall and just do the intake and tune. I just wanted to get everyones opinions first. If I didn't have the Mickey Thompson's I wouldn't worry nearly as much....

02NBMFormula

iTrader: (6)

as far as the low 12's go, yeah youll do that with a stall and m/t's. the thing that kills the rear's are wheel hop. there are some suspinsion parts you can get that reduce the hop

SilverStang00

iTrader: (2)

I am worried about this as well. I will be doing those same mods to my car upon purchase and am worried about the 10 bolt. What are a list of must have mods that can prolong the life of the rear?

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

An untouched stock rear will hold up pretty damn well in an A4. The amount of driveline shock in an A4 with a stall is much less than a 4000 rpm clutch dump. LCAs can help with wheel hop

Hell'sChariot

iTrader: (24)

Go for it!

98RedBird

iTrader: (77)

What all should I look into as far as suspension goes to help the rear end out though. LCA's i know, but what else? Also, what about a different gear, or something to help the rear end out, like a girdle?

keliente

iTrader: (22)

I really wouldn't worry about it too much. The difference between a 10 bolt behind an A4 and one behind an M6 is like night and day. I have a 3600 stall and mickey et streets also, I raced it all day long today without a peep out of the rear end.

Dan

iTrader: (1)

I have about the same setup that you want in your 98..Just go for it, I have not had any rear-end problems YET

98RedBird

iTrader: (77)

How hard of a 60' do will I be able to pull with the stock 10bolt? I know it's hard to tell but could I get down to about a 1.5 you think? I would like to be able to hit 11's on the stock 10 bolt.

02 BLK WS6

iTrader: (11)

High 11's on the stock 10 bolt is easy. When you get low to mid 11's is about the thresh hold. High 10's is even tougher to do reliably. I have busted ring gears and the torsen internals. I am hoping the magic # this year is a 10.9.

gator's 99TA

iTrader: (2)

local guys are going 10s on stock 10 bolts. autos dont shock the rear hard.

TorchRedZ

iTrader: (10)

11.6 here with a 1.52 sixty foot on stock 10 bolt.

TXCAMSS

iTrader: (60)

I pulled many 1.4X 60fts on the stock 10 bolt, but finally broke the Torsen spider gears. Stay with 3.23s and you'll never have to worry about damaging the ring gear, install LCA relocation brackets and run ET Streets. The ET Streets or Drags offer a much softer hit than a drag radial and are less likely to shock the Torsen enough to break it.

I spent a ton of $$ on a 10 bolt and never broke it. I pulled 1.42-1.44 60fts with it, but I should have spent that $$$ on a 12 bolt. I did it in stages as I could afford it though. We ran high 10s on the 10 bolt and finally sold it to a LS1tech member and it's still going strong.