onecamaro1

Guys, I'm looking for 500 N/A RWHP on a budget. I have 369 RW now, which makes me need 140 more. Would a Fast 90/90 help me any towards my goal? I'm only asking about the intake for now, i'll ask about the cam and heads in engine internal.

30th t/a

iTrader: (51)

DEFINATELY! and that better be a ported 90/90mm too.

black01_WS6

iTrader: (13)

it will help but you need all of he other supporting mods to get the most out of it, and like 30th t/a said it better be ported if you are wanting close to 500.

onecamaro1

Are there any sponsor links here in the forum for it?

onecamaro1

Black 01, i don't see any heads listed for you, a cam did all that HP increase? 342 - 423?

teke184

iTrader: (5)

what sucks is that any cam that would have the possibility of gettin yout 500hp would mean you couldn't run those 1.85 ratio rockers.

but yeah...at that level...the 90/90 will pay off big

onecamaro1

I know i made a mistake with the rockers, I'm gonna go with the yella terra 1.7 when i change the cam out.

SSpdDmon

iTrader: (10)

I wise man once said, "You can have 2 of the following: Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Choose wisely."

onecamaro1

Nice one, i meant not a 10,000 dollar budget. 500 hp on motor in which i'm 140 at the wheels shy now, which makes approx 168 @20% at the motor.

black01_WS6

iTrader: (13)

yup, no heads yet. Going 90/90 tea heads and dual cut outs in the future.

12secSS

iTrader: (30)

I can not emphasize this statement enough. Most max effort N/A 346/347s I have seen are built and well thought out, almost no expense spared. Good luck with your budget.

Hennytime

iTrader: (33)

it might be cheaper to go with a decent 408 rather than a max effort 346/347. youll need every bolt on from the fast 90/90 ported to hell to a electric water pump with a ***** up tune. it most likely wont be very streetable and will cost tons of money. when you start getting to the higher hp levels, rwhp starts to get hard to come by, its not like you just add a catback and get 15rwhp. everything builds off of something else, and when you get up there, its tough to get the last little bit. thats why you see guys buying 1300 dollar intake combos to get 25rwhp out of.

or you could just do nitrous

MavrikTA

iTrader: (27)

Yeah, I really think that you are asking for too much for too little.
450RWHP=reletively affordable.
500RWHP= MONEY.

linn.35

You will need to port the fast 90/90 to reach 500rwhp on a stock 346 bottom end.

PowerShift408

iTrader: (44)

You might want to look into a stroker shortblock. 500 rwhp is going to be big bucks and not very streetable on stock cubes.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

Yeah, define what 'budget' means. Just like LG says, going fast costs money, how much do you want to spend.

I understand if you want to spend say $5000-$6000 and would like to be at or near 500hp, then I'd say get a nice 402ci, with a decent set of heads, intake, cam, headers, programming and you should be there and be quite streetable.

N/A 346 is going to be tough and probably more expensive than larger cubes.

If it were me, I'd get a 402 shortblock from Scoggin Dickey (SDPC), retain your current heads, get a new cam, and see where you are at. From there you can bolt on a new set of heads when money allows, as well as the FAST 90/90.

Red99TA

iTrader: (11)

There have been a few guys hit 500 with a good h/c setup. I think the past few have been sporting the trickflows...not cheap but obviously a great head. As for the FAST 90/90 you will definitely need it to get near 500 at the wheels. I'm at 427 now w/ a port-matched FAST. I would be VERY happy if I could hit 475 with a decent set of heads. Driveability is fine right now and I don't see heads causing my driveability to change much.

onecamaro1

right now i have unported z06 heads, stock z06 cam "when i talk RWHP, do i talk corrected or not?" 369hp and 389hp not corrected. I'll look up the shortblock and price. I might still play with some other cam profiles first.

Red99TA

iTrader: (11)

It depends on what conditions you dyno in. If it's 40 degrees outside then the corrected #'s will be lower than uncorrected. Likewise if it's like 100 degrees out when you dyno then the corrected #'s should be higher than uncorrected. Basically it corrects the #'s to a certain temperature and pressure (not sure what exactly...70 degrees?). This makes it easier for people to compare/analyze results. People usually talk corrected #'s unless it's some ricer trying to sound like he's making more power than he really is. Hell, I was making somewhere in the 460's uncorrected

Genesis_26317

iTrader: (2)

It won't help at all if you do it the easy was and have a cheapy low boost blower added and then have the car tuned to utilized it properly.

You'll nail 500 hp no problem.

Actually the FAST intake is worse when you add a blower since it leaks boost.