Input wanted Lower Control Arm and panhard.(yes I been using search too)
#1
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Input wanted Lower Control Arm and panhard.(yes I been using search too)
I want to buy some from Sam/UMI, anway I was looking and found these. I would like to rod ended non adjustable and didnt' see them on UMI site, these are something in between and look cool. I just dont' know if the strongest etc.
I want a panhard thats double rod end but not adjustable I"m not lowered nor never will be in this car.
Any input on these guys? I dont' want poly they might bind. And I want something strong. I would like to have double rod ended non adjustable panhard and rod ened LCA's too.
This is a street car, might drag it race 1 time a year. Mainly I want something better int he curves around the mtns where I live.
I have BMR STB(got it long time ago) Sams bars, and Koni SA. I dont' want parts to look good or waste money. I want it to function and work together as one supension. I like to take it slow(per sam) and get things as needed. I have very good tires new wide ovals.
I hook good on the street, but better traction and handling is always good
I want a panhard thats double rod end but not adjustable I"m not lowered nor never will be in this car.
Any input on these guys? I dont' want poly they might bind. And I want something strong. I would like to have double rod ended non adjustable panhard and rod ened LCA's too.
This is a street car, might drag it race 1 time a year. Mainly I want something better int he curves around the mtns where I live.
I have BMR STB(got it long time ago) Sams bars, and Koni SA. I dont' want parts to look good or waste money. I want it to function and work together as one supension. I like to take it slow(per sam) and get things as needed. I have very good tires new wide ovals.
I hook good on the street, but better traction and handling is always good
Last edited by coolformula; 03-21-2007 at 12:19 PM.
#3
Like he said, rod ends are always adjustable, you do need to replace them, so they need to be able to screw in and out. How often you have to replace them depends on where they are used (for example LCA rod ends go out a lot quicker than PHB rod ends)
If you're afraid that you can't or dont want to adjust them yourself, a good alignment shop can take care of it for you.
Rod ends on panhard bar- very little difference as far as passenger comfort, very big difference in performance
From what you wrote, I say just keep your stock LCA's. They don't bind, and allow free movement of the axle. They're also very comfotable.
Sams bars, Koni shocks and a rod end panhard bar is a very nice set up
If you're afraid that you can't or dont want to adjust them yourself, a good alignment shop can take care of it for you.
Rod ends on panhard bar- very little difference as far as passenger comfort, very big difference in performance
From what you wrote, I say just keep your stock LCA's. They don't bind, and allow free movement of the axle. They're also very comfotable.
Sams bars, Koni shocks and a rod end panhard bar is a very nice set up
#4
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Just because you aren't lowering the car doesn't mean you don't need adjustable components. My rear was slightly off with the stock stuff.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....00&postcount=5
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....00&postcount=5
#5
We have our QA1 teflon-lined double adjustable panhard and lower control arm as a set of which includes upgraded 1/2" bolts for 329.99 and are IN STOCK ready to ship. You won't find much of a better price for an outstanding setup.
Components are among the lightest and highest quality on the market. All 4130 chrome-moly welded construction using tig-pulsed and sequenced processes.
Components are among the lightest and highest quality on the market. All 4130 chrome-moly welded construction using tig-pulsed and sequenced processes.
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Originally Posted by SJM Manufacturing Inc
We have our QA1 teflon-lined double adjustable panhard and lower control arm as a set of which includes upgraded 1/2" bolts for 329.99 and are IN STOCK ready to ship. You won't find much of a better price for an outstanding setup.
Components are among the lightest and highest quality on the market. All 4130 chrome-moly welded construction using tig-pulsed and sequenced processes.
Components are among the lightest and highest quality on the market. All 4130 chrome-moly welded construction using tig-pulsed and sequenced processes.
i have the PHR and its an awesome piece of work. i highly recommend them.
LCAs comin in june-ish
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Thanks for all the input. I just figured rod ended being better, I have heard too much of poly/poly binding.
Did anybody check out the ebay link? I find it to be interesting design dont' know about durablity/ etc.
anybody else try these or heard any reviews>
Did anybody check out the ebay link? I find it to be interesting design dont' know about durablity/ etc.
anybody else try these or heard any reviews>
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#8
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As mentioned having rod-ends means the items are adjustable, because rod-ends are threaded. You can't do rod-ended, non-adjustable. Kind of like looking for clean dirt.
You can just set the things to the stock length if you like, but no car is 100% dead-on, so you could adjust things to be right on (or not).
Also, I'd recommend a poly/rod combo LCA for most all street cars. Quieter and cheaper, but takes care of wheel hop. However, let me say that I'm not sure you really need LCA's at all (ok, I'm pretty sure you don't). I'd do the PHB for sure, but beyond that I'd need to know just what you are looking to change about the way the car drives.
You can just set the things to the stock length if you like, but no car is 100% dead-on, so you could adjust things to be right on (or not).
Also, I'd recommend a poly/rod combo LCA for most all street cars. Quieter and cheaper, but takes care of wheel hop. However, let me say that I'm not sure you really need LCA's at all (ok, I'm pretty sure you don't). I'd do the PHB for sure, but beyond that I'd need to know just what you are looking to change about the way the car drives.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
#9
Originally Posted by coolformula
Thanks for all the input. I just figured rod ended being better, I have heard too much of poly/poly binding.
Did anybody check out the ebay link? I find it to be interesting design dont' know about durablity/ etc.
anybody else try these or heard any reviews>
Did anybody check out the ebay link? I find it to be interesting design dont' know about durablity/ etc.
anybody else try these or heard any reviews>
If you've searched, I've discussed this one in detail. In summary, it is an attempt to create a component that "acts" like a rod end BUT it won't.
If you want best performance, rod-ended components are it hands down!
...Anything else is not going to perform as well. If you're concerned with binding and performance, pure rod-ended setups will work best...otherwise in my opinion stick with the stock setup anything else will not perform as well.
Originally Posted by SIK02SS
i have the PHR and its an awesome piece of work. i highly recommend them.
LCAs comin in june-ish
LCAs comin in june-ish
Thanks for the comment!
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Sorry for the ebay link(I have removed it)
When in doubt call sam. So much easier to get answer talking to a real live human. The interent is great, but sometimes you cant' "understand" it as well.
He gives the best customer service
Anway went with the double Rod ended PHR and NO lca's for right now.(also picked up some brake fluid.)
Thanks for everybody help.
When in doubt call sam. So much easier to get answer talking to a real live human. The interent is great, but sometimes you cant' "understand" it as well.
He gives the best customer service
Anway went with the double Rod ended PHR and NO lca's for right now.(also picked up some brake fluid.)
Thanks for everybody help.
#11
The internet and e-mails can be difficult to follow sometimes. I feel direct customer support and attention is your best option. Glad Sam could help you out.
Design and manufacturing is my business, with over 15 years of experience as well as a few degrees under my belt gives us quite an edge. There's much info out there from companies and/or individuals which are misleading or quite frankly false.
Phone support IS the best option. We are here to support questions comments.
Good luck, have a great day!
Design and manufacturing is my business, with over 15 years of experience as well as a few degrees under my belt gives us quite an edge. There's much info out there from companies and/or individuals which are misleading or quite frankly false.
Phone support IS the best option. We are here to support questions comments.
Good luck, have a great day!
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I'd agree with Sam on this one - try the PHB first and then see if there is something that you still want to change about how the car drives/acts.
For me, I am doing most of my suspension, EXCEPT subframe connectors and lower control arms, then deciding later if they will be needed.
For me, I am doing most of my suspension, EXCEPT subframe connectors and lower control arms, then deciding later if they will be needed.