operating temp
#1
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operating temp
I drove my T/A today, with the new 160 thermo installed, and fan switch. i drive mostly highway to school, the car now runs about 170* instead of 210* which it used too, i was jw if this is normal now or is it to low of a temp, and is it hard on the engine? i havn't used my fan yet thats for like drivivng in the bigger city, my schools in a small town, but yeah im just wondering if thats an ok temp to operate at, race at etc.
#3
Originally Posted by TheTransporter69
anyone?
160 was right at maximum power, 180 was maximum engine life. Due to the reverse cooling of the LT1 i'd imagine the graph was shifted a little. The maximum power is prolly at a little higher temp and the maximum engine life was at a little lower temp, ie they prolly intersect at 170.
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#9
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Originally Posted by 95TAGary
Can you drop a 160°F thermostat in and no fan install? Will that work and make your car run cooler? Just curious if that will work?
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Originally Posted by 95TAGary
Can you drop a 160°F thermostat in and no fan install? Will that work and make your car run cooler? Just curious if that will work?
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Originally Posted by onephatZ28
It will on the freeway I would go with the SLP fan switch. you and your car will love it
Is the fan switch better than sending the PCM off to have them adjust it?
#12
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It is not difficult to install. You would certainly want it inside the cockpit, which means running it through the firewall.
It is not worth sending your PCM in for such a simple change. The least expensive PCM solution is to buy a used Hypertech Power Programmer and then sell it when you are ready for a real PCM programmer. Or you could spring for LT1Edit or Tunercat, which are real solutions. But the cheapest solution is the switch, you just have to watch your temperature gauge.
It is not worth sending your PCM in for such a simple change. The least expensive PCM solution is to buy a used Hypertech Power Programmer and then sell it when you are ready for a real PCM programmer. Or you could spring for LT1Edit or Tunercat, which are real solutions. But the cheapest solution is the switch, you just have to watch your temperature gauge.
#15
Originally Posted by dhdenney
You have to think though that the temp on your gauge may show a little cooler than the the actual temp being read at the water pump. I'd say your temp is just fine.
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Originally Posted by transam5.7lt1
Temperature gauge gets reading from sensor on engine block, driver side, the other sensor on the water pump its the Coolant temperature, which feeds temperature readings to the PCM, not the gauge.....