heimbo

iTrader: (2)

http://s52.photobucket.com/albums/g6...nt=Startup.flv

http://s52.photobucket.com/albums/g6...=Driveaway.flv

The video is pretty grainy, but you get the idea.

It's driveable and runs great, but it obviously needs some finishing up to be ready for everyday driving. Sadly I had to head back to school and stop working on it. My next trip home I plan to finish up everything and start putting on some more miles.

The first drive was a blast and I only cruised around town, but managed to draw lots of attention from my neighbors as it rumbled down side streets. I made Formula owner's head spin around like the exorcists as I rolled through a gas station.

Basically stock, but I've made lots of changes converting everything from an SE model to Turbo II.

1988 Mazda RX-7 SE

Engine Mods: 1998 5.7L LS1
• LS6 Intake Manifold
• Katech rod bolts
• MSD spark plug wires
• NGK spark plugs
• Speed Inc. solid tensioner
• Texas Speed ported LS6 oil pump
• LS6 valley cover PCV conversion
• Custom 3.5" CAI w/ K&N air filter
• ’02 ported exhaust manifolds or 1 Ύ” BBK long tube headers (need to change the flanges)
• 2.5” true duals, summit h-pipe, magnaflows, SS tips
• Odyssey PC680 lightweight battery
• Corvette FPR
• Jesse Bubb performance PCM tune
• Ported stock throttle body
• Granny’s Speed shop LS1 mount kit (spaced for power steering)
• 27.5”x 19” Griffin Radiator w/ electric fan
• Walbro 255lph fuel pump
• No PS, EGR, or AC
• Scangauge II

Drivetrain: T-56 6 speed transmission
• LS6 clutch kit
• Granny’s speed shop trans brace/mount
• Granny’s speed shop driveshaft
• Hinson Super Cars Clutch line
• Turbo 2 rear end and axles w/ redline gear oil
• Wilwood 7/8” clutch master cylinder
• MMR Solid differential mounts

Suspension: Turbo 2 Dampers and springs
• Turbo 2 sway bars
• Prothane bushing kit
• Racing Beat DTSS eliminators
• Slotted brake rotors
• Turbo 2 brakes and spindles

rat_rod_russell

Sweet lets see the burn out

heimbo

iTrader: (2)

I am waiting for a better video camera.

PaulC

you have a very lovely home

RFERG43

Welcome to the club !!!! Wish my swap looked that good.

BLNLS1/RX7

iTrader: (2)

Good job. I know you will have a lot of fun this summer with it.

heimbo

iTrader: (2)

Engine bay wise or the car as a whole? If you mean the car then pics are deceiving as the body needs some attention.


This is my first import, first RWD car, first v8, first 80's car, first motor swap car, first sportscar...I hope to have it in my garage for a long time.

RFERG43

Engine bay.

XofXtimeX

iTrader: (6)

I love how it boggles peoples mind by the exhaust note coming out.

heimbo

iTrader: (2)

Thanks. That's something I take pride in. Removing the AC condensor and running the PCM main connectors through there really helps to make it look a little more "factory." The jumbo 98 LS1 PCM even fit where the stock rotary computer was, I just had to cut the kickplate to get it to fit.

There is also a mini Odyssey battery hiding behind the driver's side headlight, but I'm not sure if I'm a fan of its relatively low output.

RFERG43

Could you elaborate a little on the PCM placement? Mine is still in the engine bay and I would like to move it inside. It's a '98 and the RX7 is an '89.

heimbo

iTrader: (2)

This pic is of the parts car I bought to illustrate a little better. The AC core sits behind the firewall in the cab where you see 2 pipes one on top of the other on the passenger side of the bay.

what I did was remove the AC core and the plastic shround. I then used a cut off wheel to cut out the sheet metal between the two vertical pipes. It should look like an oval when you are done and leave you with enough room to run all your wires and stuff the blue and red connectors through. This may not be a good option if you want to keep your AC, but I didn't want to mess with getting that to work.

I then went to home depot and bought some aluminum dryer duct and connected the blower motor to the heater core so I could have heat on the driver's side of the car.

You should have enough slack in the LS1 harness to have the main plugs end up right around the area where the stock rotary PCM was. I removed the original rotary PCM mount, placed the LS1 PCM in its place, then used the stock kickplate to cover it after modifying it so my wires would fit. It bolted right down in the stock location and holds it nicely in place.

RFERG43

Thanks !!

THE_SUPRA

cool stuff! i love thoes cars! pimp classic lines!

heimbo

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, hopefully these will help those classic 80's lines look even better!!




17x9 for the rear and 17x8 up front. I should have the car road worthy by the end of this weekend. The anticipation is killing me.

edit: In case you are wondering why I have a million coasters laying around and a bunch of towels on couches...one word...cats!

Bigchickenhawk

iTrader: (3)

Damn I hate cats....get rid of them

cingham

anyone have the ls1 guide they can e-mail me?

I've given up on the TBI and going bad *** now

heimbo

iTrader: (2)

http://www.grannysspeedshop.com/

www.v8rx7forum.com

These are the resources I used to complete my swap. There really isn't an end all/be all swap guide to use as everyone's turns out differently.

For the wiring you can also use www.swapcartech.com , but you may have better luck just printing out the pinouts for the harness and connecting accordingly as you see fit.

heimbo

iTrader: (2)

You can't just "get rid of" an animal that looks like this.



He is a pretty good mechanic as well.

goodrich969

iTrader: (9)

I see more and more of these everyday and for some reason they never get old.Good job