NOS powered LS1

Want opinions on what you guys would do and why, car is a 1/4 mi. street racing car from a dig and rarely go to the track.

1. GTP Stage II Heads (milled to 11:1 CR), TR230 Cam, LS6 Intake, TNT 75-100 shot, SLP LT's,!Cats, TH400 w/3500 stall, Moser 12 bolt w/3.42's, all bolt on's, SFC's, LCA's, Inline fuel pump, ET Streets, TR Dyno Tune

2. All of the above except with MTI Stage II's milled, X1 Cam, a TP4400 stall and no gas

3. LS1 Motorsports Single Turbo 7 psi, LS6 Intake, TH400 w/3500 stall, Moser 12 bolt w/3.73's, all bolt ons, ET Streets, LS1 Motorsports dyno tune

Your thoughts please <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

14u2nv

If you plan on passing an emissions test and you have the roller test, I would seriously re-consider the tr230 cam. I asked about that can and gave them the emission specs for Ohio and they said they didn't think it would pass, even with cats nd tuning. I think they recommended a 220 cam instead. As for the other mods I would personally WANT the turbo, but I am rather nervous about using forced induction on a stock motor(bottom end). A lot of people say"hey look at the 2003 Cobras, Supras, GNs, DSMs...", yeah but those engines are designed to have the forced inductions on them. In light of that, I would recommend the GTP heads/tr cam(call TR and talk about your emissions concerns) or the MTI heads/cam set-ups. You should be able to run a 100 shot without any problems.

Vents

iTrader: (9)

both ;D

NOS powered LS1

we dont have emissions <img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" />

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by NOS powered LS1:
<strong>we dont have emissions <img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">lucky bastard <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" />

EDIT:O yea we dont either, <img border="0" alt="[Banging Head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" /> just a computer check <img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" />

<small>[ December 08, 2002, 09:26 PM: Message edited by: stang killer ]</small>

AlonzoVersion 1.0

I would go with the turbo setup.It would very quiet and streetable and you gotta love the sound of the wastegate and blowoff valve.

1CAMWNDR

iTrader: (21)

Both!
TR 230 cam. Stage II 6.0 heads unmilled. And the LS1M Single Turbo kit. <img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" />

99MONGOOSE

If you don't have emissions then why would you have cats listed with the SLp long tubes?

FASST

He lists "!CATS" which means "no CATS". ! = removed

NOS powered LS1

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 1CAMWNDR:
<strong>Both!
TR 230 cam. Stage II 6.0 heads unmilled. And the LS1M Single Turbo kit. <img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yeah I wish I could but that would put me well over 10K, I was wanting to stay below 10K, I think I am gonna do an 11:1 H/C 4000 stall and a 100 shot, that should be good enough for the street

I would just slap on the turbo but I dont really know about FI on a 10.1:1 motor <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

Plus I think the H/C/N20 car would beat the turbo car on the street <img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" />

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

turbo, ultimate sleeper, folks will hear the h/c combo comming a mile away, AND will not get the mileage or power that the turbo will.

AlonzoVersion 1.0

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by MIGHTYMOUSE:
<strong>turbo, ultimate sleeper, folks will hear the h/c combo comming a mile away, AND will not get the mileage or power that the turbo will.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">You got that right.

NOS powered LS1

you're saying a 7-8 lb. turbo car will beat a Monster H/C/N20 car?

Sears

On your budget the H/C/N20 would be my choice. Although you need to look into upping the fuel supply more then just an inline.

If you went the turbo route, you would need to change pistons and heads at the least to get the CR down.

Bottles run out, $$$ aside, go H/C turbo. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

If you decide to come over to Thunder for a dyno tune let me know..

Justin

fastlif

iTrader: (1)

turbo cars are harder to tune and harder to install.

heads/cam are simple, n2o is simple and safe as long as you use your head.

Look at all the fastest cars on the lists...how many are turbo or SC? As far as I know there is 1 turbo car making serious hp but not without problems. (not bashing it at all) But $$ for $$ and headache for headache n2o is the way to go.

Angry'Z

there's always one in every crowd so I guess I'm it this time. I disagree with everyone. I like option number two - do it all on the engine. N2O brings its own set of problems but is cheap easy power until you burn up a piston (any number of causes). Forced induction on a stock bottom end - longevity, longevity, longevity. Make it on engine alone - who cares if they hear it from a block away and as far as emissions go - warm the car up real well before they sniff it and you might be ok - if not a 50$ is sure to help. Just another .02.

Michael

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

the post is about street car, i assume daily driveable, tolerable etc.

a na motor will be flat out "ignorant" on the street before it even comes close to the output of a properly tuned turbo.. if you doubt this the you have not daily driven a heads/cam car with over 450rwhp. (mine only did 370rw and it was too much rattle for me and not enough roll)

from his question he has plenty of money so DEFINITELY turbo, if supertight on cash then yes nitrous.

1CAMWNDR

iTrader: (21)

I am a huge fan of the turbo. And no,you will not need to get dished pistons to make good power with a turbo. A good set of mildly worked 6.0 heads, a good reverse split cam, and the right tune will do wonders for your car.

NOS powered LS1

Turbo- 6500
Worked 6.0 Heads- 2K??
Cam and valvetrain kit- 700
Tuning- 500
LS6 intake- 500
Converter- 900
That is 11,100 right there not even counting labor

Labor- 2-2500

13,600 without the other bolt ons

I think I will go H/C/N20

Heads- 2800
cam and kit- 700
LS6 intake- 500
tuning- 500
already have the N20
Labor- 1000
Converter- 800

$6300, I still have $7300 left, maybe a 382 Stroker and a 200 shot <img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" />

and if I break something then I can take the money I saved on the turbo setup and replace them

beardWS6

iTrader: (1)

I agree, My H/C and 100 shot will run with the best of them. As for the sound, I had my cats on. Took them off and put the ORP. Love the sound of the car. I tell everyone what I have when we race, I hide nothing. All I know is if someone wants to race you, it deosn`t matter what you have. If racing is in your blood, and it`s for fun. Anyone will race! Check my Sig out. She runs really we`ll <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> Just a note for you. She drives very streetable, A/C works great! MTI is the best!!

<small>[ December 10, 2002, 09:32 PM: Message edited by: beardWS6 ]</small>