Chicago Crew UnderBoss

iTrader: (1)

My MTI LQ4 427 is going to be installed by MTI within the next 30 days. I heard the ironblocks create more heat that alum. resleeved strokers. I hate running hot and its get darn hot and humid here during the summer in Chicago and we all know what happens to our engine temps. when stuck in traffic in hot conditions! <img border="0" alt="[barf]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_barf.gif" />

MTI untilizes the heavy DRM radiator and oil cooler and of course this is expensive. However, do you think this is a necessary upgrade if i want to run cool, between 180 and 200, under hot, humid traffic conditions, etc.

Anyone running a LQ4 stroker in their beasts with the stock radiator. What are your temps in the summer, etc. and is you stroker in a f body or y body. I have a 98 vette C5 A4 with large 4000 stall and large tranny cooler. Don't know if that matters or not.

Thanks for all input and info.

MTI 427 C5 Roadster <img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[Corvette]" title="" src="graemlins/corvette.gif" />

<small>[ December 24, 2002, 10:38 AM: Message edited by: MTI 427 C5 Roadster ]</small>

ls1290

iTrader: (20)

A friend of mine is running a ARE 427 iron block in his 2001 ZO6 and has a stock radiator. No overheating problems. Even with an AIT F2 blower on it <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

strokedls1

iTrader: (1)

The best and cheapest thing to do is to just swap it out for a lt1 radiator. They have twice the capacity as th ls1, and is exactly what slp sells as their upgrade radiator for ls1's. They were iron blocks so it works great. Just have to cap off the heater hose line. Cheap and has all the same mounting feature for a truely painless install.

Jason 98 TA

iTrader: (4)

Strokedls1 that will work on a c5?

Jason

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I run my stock radiator etc. with my ~11.75:1 motor.

Chicago Crew UnderBoss

iTrader: (1)

Pro Stock John:

Merry Christmas Brother. What temps on the average do you see in the hot Chicago summertime weather and when your stuck in traffic? I really don't want to spend this extra big chunck of cash for an aftermarket radiator if i can avoid it.

Thanks,

MTI 427 C5 Roadster <img border="0" alt="[Corvette]" title="" src="graemlins/corvette.gif" />

strokedls1

iTrader: (1)

Ask MTI, but the lt1 should fit fine if you want some extra cooling. I like to run it at 180 F which is why I went with the lt1 radiator. Try out the stocker first, and if it is heating up throw the lt1 in. Don't fix what isn't broken, ya know.

SPEED DOG

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by MTI 427 C5 Roadster:
<strong>My MTI LQ4 427 is going to be installed by MTI within the next 30 days. I heard the ironblocks create more heat that alum. resleeved strokers. I hate running hot and its get darn hot and humid here during the summer in Chicago and we all know what happens to our engine temps. when stuck in traffic in hot conditions! <img border="0" alt="[barf]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_barf.gif" />

MTI untilizes the heavy DRM radiator and oil cooler and of course this is expensive. However, do you think this is a necessary upgrade if i want to run cool, between 180 and 200, under hot, humid traffic conditions, etc.

Anyone running a LQ4 stroker in their beasts with the stock radiator. What are your temps in the summer, etc. and is you stroker in a f body or y body. I have a 98 vette C5 A4 with large 4000 stall and large tranny cooler. Don't know if that matters or not.

Thanks for all input and info.

MTI 427 C5 Roadster <img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[Corvette]" title="" src="graemlins/corvette.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I explored this with Wade while we were building my 436. He recommended staying with the stock radiator as I wasn't planning to road race the car. We did go to a 172 tstat, with appropriate PCM programming. In town, my max coolant temps are in the 185 range during the summer (I'm in Birmingham AL) and oil temp is in the 200 range. Admittedly this is on an aluminum block, so the your needs are not identical to mine. As you can see from my sig, however, this is a fairly radical engine, and it's had no temp problems to date. In fact, in our winter, the car is a bit cool. Since we have so little cold weather, that's OK by me.

Hope this helps.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

~170 cruising on hwy,
~185-190 in stop and go,
~205 after a run at the dragstrip,
car runs pretty cool.

Chicago Crew UnderBoss

iTrader: (1)

PSJ:

I am quite impressed how cool your Beast runs with the stock radiator. I know Troy runs hot in his C5 ironblock in the summertime and do you, or anyone else know for sure, whether the ironblock in a f-body will run cooler than a ironblock C5 with stock radiator.

This seems to be the million dollar question for me, which when answered, will allow me to make my final decision in regards to whether it is worth to drop another grand ($1,000.00+) for an upgraded radiator.

Thanks,

MTI 427 C5 Roadster

Austrian Vette

Jim, I taked about that with Shirl and he said as long as I´m not driving at higher speeds for longer time, I may not need one.

But I do. I´ll drive the car on the highway at 150+ for two hours and more.

Also, as you said, Troys engine runs high cooling temps, also.
I don´t wanna risk to need to swap the cooler later.

So I went with the be cool radiator.
Just to be sure.

And it´s easy when the engine is out anyway.

Michael