hydra-rev kit
04-16-2007, 11:03 PM
#1
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hydra-rev kit whats the deal with this? opinions? i just wanted some more info on it bc a guy came into my work today telling me its the shiznit and its only 300 bucks. i read a little about it on afr's site but it didnt say much. is it worth it? what kind of supporting mods/parts does it need to perform and what kind of gains could i expect?
04-17-2007, 06:53 PM
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hydra rev kit It is a billet piece that goes between the head and block with springs to keep pressure on the outer lip of the lifters for increased rpm and no valve floating. I know of one for sell cheap only 75 miles on it and the MSD adjustable opti lost a screw and broke a ring land and cracked #6 cyl in half now we are building a 396 stroker instead 0f fixing the 383. PM me for details 200.00 cash Thanks Robby
04-17-2007, 07:18 PM
#7
I will agree that appropriate springs for the mostpart negate any potential gains you would see. That said though it can be a good safety as it will keep the lifter in place if you snap a pushrod or the like.
With the availability of beehive springs in particular I would lean towards just using good springs and skipping this.
With the availability of beehive springs in particular I would lean towards just using good springs and skipping this.
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04-17-2007, 07:54 PM
#8
The whole idea of the hydra-rev is to not put so much spring pressure on the hydraulic mechanism of the lifter, so it doesn't start to collapse at hi rpm. Like rob01ss said, it only touches the outer lip of the lifter so it avoids the moving parts. AFR claims a decent hp gain at higher rpms.
I have one but never used it because I went straight to solid roller. If you get one and want to install itwithout removing the heads, AFR has a tool to compress the springs correctly for installation. It's like $65 but good quality, and you can sell it later for $40. I'll rent you mine for $14 plus a deposit - you pay the shipping to/from, and the deposit comes back right after the tool shows up undamaged. The tool probably weighs 2-3# packaged.
If you try to just lever the springs in it will gouge up stuff.
When I rebuild my ZZ3 motor for sale, I'm going to put the hydra-rev kit in there with a Crane hyd roller 222/230. Supposed to give you another 500rpm of useable power.
Jim
I have one but never used it because I went straight to solid roller. If you get one and want to install itwithout removing the heads, AFR has a tool to compress the springs correctly for installation. It's like $65 but good quality, and you can sell it later for $40. I'll rent you mine for $14 plus a deposit - you pay the shipping to/from, and the deposit comes back right after the tool shows up undamaged. The tool probably weighs 2-3# packaged.
If you try to just lever the springs in it will gouge up stuff.
When I rebuild my ZZ3 motor for sale, I'm going to put the hydra-rev kit in there with a Crane hyd roller 222/230. Supposed to give you another 500rpm of useable power.
Jim
04-17-2007, 08:56 PM
#10
Originally Posted by DeltaT
The whole idea of the hydra-rev is to not put so much spring pressure on the hydraulic mechanism of the lifter, so it doesn't start to collapse at hi rpm. Like rob01ss said, it only touches the outer lip of the lifter so it avoids the moving parts. AFR claims a decent hp gain at higher rpms.
I have one but never used it because I went straight to solid roller. If you get one and want to install itwithout removing the heads, AFR has a tool to compress the springs correctly for installation. It's like $65 but good quality, and you can sell it later for $40. I'll rent you mine for $14 plus a deposit - you pay the shipping to/from, and the deposit comes back right after the tool shows up undamaged. The tool probably weighs 2-3# packaged.
If you try to just lever the springs in it will gouge up stuff.
When I rebuild my ZZ3 motor for sale, I'm going to put the hydra-rev kit in there with a Crane hyd roller 222/230. Supposed to give you another 500rpm of useable power.
Jim
I have one but never used it because I went straight to solid roller. If you get one and want to install itwithout removing the heads, AFR has a tool to compress the springs correctly for installation. It's like $65 but good quality, and you can sell it later for $40. I'll rent you mine for $14 plus a deposit - you pay the shipping to/from, and the deposit comes back right after the tool shows up undamaged. The tool probably weighs 2-3# packaged.
If you try to just lever the springs in it will gouge up stuff.
When I rebuild my ZZ3 motor for sale, I'm going to put the hydra-rev kit in there with a Crane hyd roller 222/230. Supposed to give you another 500rpm of useable power.
Jim
The pressure to the lifter body thing was agood idea before beehives. Now that we have beehives available that do the same job with less pressure we don't have to worry about applying all the pressure directly to the plunger.
Leaves pretty much the only true potential benifit being the safety of lifter retantion in case of pushrod failure, but Ellis provided a good answer to that too.
04-17-2007, 10:21 PM
#16
Originally Posted by Boodyrider
You mean the beehives that break? Yeah, they are an improvement alright.
Patriot Gold Dual LT1 with TI retainers FTW! Less money AND include Ti retainers, locks, and hardened spring seats. More available lift than the beehive 918s too.
Patriot Gold Dual LT1 with TI retainers FTW! Less money AND include Ti retainers, locks, and hardened spring seats. More available lift than the beehive 918s too.
Every manufacturer makes mistakes and then there are guys who push the limits too far.
I have about 8K miles on the AI setup with 918s and all is good.
04-17-2007, 11:05 PM
#17
Nah, I'm just making fun of 'em because with all the hype they got, Comp made a bad batch and pretty much destroyed the reputation the beehives had.
I'll conceed for most they are a pretty good deal, just kinda expensive. Add Ti retainers, hard seats, and steel locks, you got $500. The Patriot spring set includes all that, is dual, and cost about half that.
Of course, I am not all that happy with my results; I'll probably have to pull the heads and have them flowed to see why I'm only making 320/320 with a 230/236 XFI cam. Mind you, that's almost 300 TQ from 3000 to 5800... but it falls on it's face just past 5800.
I may need to port the stock intake, and/or go 58 mm on the tb.
I may also, after babbling about the Patriot duals, have to cut the seat pockets .060 to get back to a rational seat pressure, because I'm nearly at 190 on the seat... and yeah, thats on stock style hydraulic lifters! (A result of SA rollers, which because of my valves needed -.050 keys...) I believe NSA rockers would have eliminated that and let me stay at around 135 on the seat. of course, if I had valve that had .300 tip length instead of .250.... that would have helped too!
I'll conceed for most they are a pretty good deal, just kinda expensive. Add Ti retainers, hard seats, and steel locks, you got $500. The Patriot spring set includes all that, is dual, and cost about half that.
Of course, I am not all that happy with my results; I'll probably have to pull the heads and have them flowed to see why I'm only making 320/320 with a 230/236 XFI cam. Mind you, that's almost 300 TQ from 3000 to 5800... but it falls on it's face just past 5800.
I may need to port the stock intake, and/or go 58 mm on the tb.
I may also, after babbling about the Patriot duals, have to cut the seat pockets .060 to get back to a rational seat pressure, because I'm nearly at 190 on the seat... and yeah, thats on stock style hydraulic lifters! (A result of SA rollers, which because of my valves needed -.050 keys...) I believe NSA rockers would have eliminated that and let me stay at around 135 on the seat. of course, if I had valve that had .300 tip length instead of .250.... that would have helped too!
04-17-2007, 11:06 PM
#18
Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
Every manufacturer makes mistakes and then there are guys who push the limits too far.
I have about 8K miles on the AI setup with 918s and all is good.
I have about 8K miles on the AI setup with 918s and all is good.
04-18-2007, 06:40 PM
#19
Titanium retainers on beehives are not particularly worthwhile. The retainer size/weight is already reduced so much from a standard setup that titanium only gains a very little weight reduction.
The XFI grinds got way more hype than deserved, mediocre is as good a results as I have seen from them. A b-body guy had that cam with ported LT4s and made like 360rwhp and the list goes on of cars NOT making power with the XFI stuff. My understanding is they need more spring than even Comp recommends to even have a chance.
Far as my setup lift is much closer to .550 than it is to the rated max of .600 on those springs. Phil and Ron understood this is a street car and put together a valvetrain that will last under such conditions.
The XFI grinds got way more hype than deserved, mediocre is as good a results as I have seen from them. A b-body guy had that cam with ported LT4s and made like 360rwhp and the list goes on of cars NOT making power with the XFI stuff. My understanding is they need more spring than even Comp recommends to even have a chance.
Far as my setup lift is much closer to .550 than it is to the rated max of .600 on those springs. Phil and Ron understood this is a street car and put together a valvetrain that will last under such conditions.
04-19-2007, 03:26 AM
#20
Well, I got the springs (set up at almost 190 on the seat, 400 open), I got the lightweight retainers, maybe all I need is the slick lifters and to spin that bad boy! Of course, maybe I need more port work too; with my stall, I don't spend much time below 2500 anyway, and I MIGHT be able to spin a stock bottom end to 6800.... 
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