How much Whlhp for a 383 stroker LT1 M6 run 10's ?
04-26-2007, 02:53 AM
#6
186.3 What? I was thinking a hell of a driver and 550 whp? Do you think whp 600 for sure? With the Lloyd elliot Stage 3 setup heads and cam and 12:3-12:5 compression and a 396 stroker assembly I should be making right at 460-490 whp all motor and I will be spraying a 300 shot of NOS. I will have this motor running by May 31st. I am building this motor to settle a score with a LS1 Formula Firebird with stage 2 heads and cam with a 150 shot. Who do you think will win?
Last edited by ZEX-Z; 04-27-2007 at 04:32 AM.
04-26-2007, 02:53 AM
#7
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Originally Posted by fnslowZ
I would say 500-550rwhp
Although Ed Wright and R. Abare run nines with 530 somethin-er-other rwhp.
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04-26-2007, 04:43 PM
#14
Yeah, its very hard to judge what rwhp will do what...I know I don't even make 400 rwhp on a Mustang dyno, but seem to trap higher and go quicker than others with way more dyno hp...I'm hoping to be real close to the 10s with my TDs followed by a 4.10 gear swap...
--Alan
--Alan
04-26-2007, 07:03 PM
#15
I didnt see anything about weight, the lighter the car the less rwhp needed, at full weight 3650 lbs 525 rwhp with a GOOD suspension will get it done through a six speed. 60 ft will have to be in the mid 1.50's at least.
Bring a grocery basket for the drivetrain parts it is gonna **** out.
David
Bring a grocery basket for the drivetrain parts it is gonna **** out.
David
04-26-2007, 09:36 PM
#16
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Originally Posted by ZEX-Z
186.3 What? I was thinking a hell of a driver and 550 whp? Do you think whp 600 for sure? With the Lloyd elliot Stage 3 setup heads and cam and 12:3-12:5 compression and a 385 stroker assembly I should be making right at 460-470 whp all motor and I will be spraying a 300 shot of NOS. I will have this motor running by May 31st. I am building this motor to settle a score with a low 2003 13 second mustang GT and a LS1 Formula Firebird with stage 2 heads and cam with a 175 shot. Who do you think will win. This will be a street race from a roll. He is also a M6 with 3.73's. I have the stock 3.42s but I have a stage 3 clutch and a little bit of weight reduction. I have a 1995 Z28 M6.
Cant wait for this run, its definately gonna be fun. One question J Dawg, if we're running from a roll, then why does it matter how much power its gonna take you to get to the 10's? I thought you were already there.
*subscribe to thread*
04-26-2007, 11:34 PM
#17
You'll find out soon enough. nice #'s though. Take a look at the 385 LE2 dyno numbers thread. Those #'s are awesome. I just wanted to make sure i didnt make a bad choice on the 396 kit. Except I bought the LE3 stage 3 Kit. on top of that i bought a fully forged 396 bottom end..060 over motor.That aught to put me close to a 400 cubic inch motor. On top of that its in the process of being balanced and the pistons plasma coated. 12:5 Compression anyone? After thats done one small bolt on I have to do to put the icing on the cake. Besides...You still have to beat a stock LT1 before we race. When we race on the street it will be from a roll. When we race on the track.......for money...... Lol! this is funny. Lets just say my M6 can shift a whole lot faster than yours can. Boooo to the LS1 spying in on me in the LT1 thread.
Last edited by ZEX-Z; 04-27-2007 at 04:29 AM.
04-27-2007, 12:28 AM
#19
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04-27-2007, 02:28 AM
#20
You can have a 700RWHP car that cant break out of the 12s, lot of factors to get ETs than just plain HP. Its all in the over all set up, the motor is just 1 part of the set up, if the cars a pig, has to much tire, to little gear and cant sixty better than a 2.0, car aint fixin to gonna run ****. Thats why you have guys with cam only LT1s hitting 11s, h/c LT1 knocking bottom 11s and high 10s, the cars are set up well and can use the power. Drag Racing is Drag racing no matter the motor, all the same rules and factors apply.
Factors:
Weight, like Dave said, lighter the car, less HP it needs to move it down the track, heavier it is the more power its gonna need.
Gear/Tire: What rpm is it crossing the traps, what gear is it in crossing the traps, is the tire height correct for the gear, is the car under geared because the tires to tall.
Power: Easy part with these cars when in the hands of the capable few that can make the entire thing work. They can make the power when set up well, valve train is correct for the cam, cam is correct for the heads, top end works with the bottom end, in the bottom end, rod length, pistons right for the set up, compresion. Then does the car have all the suporting mods.
Suspension - Big issue, is the pinion angle correct for the set up, is the car set up well enough to get out the hole, to launch correctly, leave the line the way it should to get the best times.
60 foot - Drving technique, getting the car to leave to the best of its ability, this comes down to all the factors above as well as driver.
If all of the above is where it needs to be, hope it holds together, drag racing is a sonva bitch some times because it easier than you think but at the same time sure as hell a lot harder than you think and try to get the numbers. The message boards arent a great representation of that, go to your local track and see what cars run in real life, not whats in peoples sigs on the board usally.
Factors:
Weight, like Dave said, lighter the car, less HP it needs to move it down the track, heavier it is the more power its gonna need.
Gear/Tire: What rpm is it crossing the traps, what gear is it in crossing the traps, is the tire height correct for the gear, is the car under geared because the tires to tall.
Power: Easy part with these cars when in the hands of the capable few that can make the entire thing work. They can make the power when set up well, valve train is correct for the cam, cam is correct for the heads, top end works with the bottom end, in the bottom end, rod length, pistons right for the set up, compresion. Then does the car have all the suporting mods.
Suspension - Big issue, is the pinion angle correct for the set up, is the car set up well enough to get out the hole, to launch correctly, leave the line the way it should to get the best times.
60 foot - Drving technique, getting the car to leave to the best of its ability, this comes down to all the factors above as well as driver.
If all of the above is where it needs to be, hope it holds together, drag racing is a sonva bitch some times because it easier than you think but at the same time sure as hell a lot harder than you think and try to get the numbers. The message boards arent a great representation of that, go to your local track and see what cars run in real life, not whats in peoples sigs on the board usally.
Last edited by BizZzatch350; 04-27-2007 at 02:39 AM.