TXjeepTJ

iTrader: (8)

well.. ls1's alternator is on the opposite side of the engine where my alternator wasnt on my jeep.

i need to make the wire going to the main + longer so it back reach the back.

i went to lowes and saw that there wire had certain amps for each wire. idk how many amps the alternator puts out


anyone know which kind of wire i should use? any input would be appreciated


thanks!

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

The f-body alternators should be 102 amp max output.

# 8 wire is good for 100 amps DC, technically you should probably run #6 since the alternator could in theory put out 2 amps greater than the #8 is good for, but the #8 should be sufficient since even if the alternator puts out 102 amps it will only do so for a short time while the battery recharges. Heres a link to recommended wire sizes for 12V DC applications http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp

I would not recommend using wire from menards or any other home applications. House wire has larger strands which are less flexible and designed to be put into place and left alone. Automotive wire uses smaller more flexible strands which will put up with being flexed and moved around as the engine torques. If you use wire that was meant for a home application you may end up with the strands of wire cracking.

TXjeepTJ

iTrader: (8)

thanks for all the info!

soo i should use a #8 gauge wire, but where do i get this from? do i just use a power wire that you would find connected to a speaker amp?

daniel6718

iTrader: (36)

i used 4...just because its easy to get ahold of, and yes you want multi strand speaker wire...

TXjeepTJ

iTrader: (8)

seriously... speaker wire??????????

67pete

No, don't use speaker wire. It's not meant for under hood conditions! Go to any well equipt automotive parts store, they should know & have what you need.....

george88gta

iTrader: (3)

Definitely go with wire from an automotive supplier. Underhood conditions can be tough on wire (heat/moisture/abrasion,etc.). The results of using incorrect wire can be shorts, intermittant shorts/opens and possibly a fire. I would use 6 awg, that way you are covered if you eventually change to a bigger alternator ( if you add power hungry accessories).

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

i run a #6 wire...
NAPA (or any equiv part store) should have it on spools.. just measure the length you need.

bygblok

iTrader: (4)

I'm going to cheat and run a one-wire alternator with the single wire running back to the solenoid to charge the battery. It worked like a charm on my Nova with the battery in the trunk so the Camaro is getting the same treatment.

TXjeepTJ

iTrader: (8)

what type of connection should i use to connect the wires together?

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

What wire are you going to connect? The main wire from the alt to the bat? The best way would be to run a completely new wire, it is just a ring terminal on the alternator end and depending on where you connect it (distribution block or battery) you may be able to use another ring terminal if it goes to the battery you would have to join it to the wire coming off the battery cable

Joining the wires is also an acceptable way. The best way to do that is to use solder and shrink wrap. All of the commonly available crimp on "butt splices" have some resistance and most are not sealed well so they corrode. A properly soldered joint will not corrode and does not add any resistance.

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

Here is where to get the correct type of wire. http://www.kayjayco.com/catPWireSelect.htm

pearceleather

Go that route.

Not to cause a stir but. The problem is that a soldered joint, is it usually creates a problem. Most people over heat the wire making it weaker. Then with vibration and elements, the connection will fail. Crimp connectors are in most cases the better option.

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

umm.. no.
overheating of the wire isnt the problem.

there are two connections that need to be made..

a mechanical connection, holding the wires together,
and
a electrical connection, for the current flow.


when people incorrectly just solder wires together, using the solder to hold it together.. it can crack.

as long as you have a good mechanical connection (aka twist them together correctly, and you arnt straining the connection (having stuff hang by the wire, ect)... then a soldered joint is as good as you can get.


even GM soldered their connections for things like this... modern harnesses dont have the same points, but look at my 3rdgens stock harness, or any other pre-90s car... even today there are cars with soldered joints.. most of them use a crimped band to hold the wires (the mechanical connection) and then the whole thing is soldered over (the electrical connection)

the reason everybody doesnt solder everything is because alot of people dont know how, and lets face it.. its more of a pain in the ***.

george88gta

iTrader: (3)

I spent a lot of years working with power wires for large end computers. We would not allow a "butt" splice in our cables. If a cable had to be repaired and it was not feasible to replace it, we used a "western union" splice and soldered. This type of splice is better than a "pigtail" since it allows the wires to lay flat against each other and doesnt give you that big mess to bend over and tape. It is tough to do on a 6 awg wire, but is far superior to a pigtail. As it was mentioned earlier, the butt splice is just another place for corrosion to start. Even if you get the crimped portion done correctly, the corrosion can creep in from the ends. If you must use a butt splice, it would be better to crimp the wire to the terminal and then solder the ends. There are butt splices that are waterproof ( Molex makes some), however, I have not had good luck with them. Bottom line, solder works, everything else can lead to problems.

Bmr4life

Just go to walmart and buy one of the battery cables they have there. They have up to 6' long 4 guage. You can cut of the connectors if you need them. Should cost no more than $7 and they are meant for underhood conditions.

TXjeepTJ

iTrader: (8)

this is a good idea, but i already bout 7ft of 8guage wire from napa.. lol


i suck at soldering, so what if i used a butt connector, and have shrink wrap cover the entire thing up to a water proof seal?

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

A buttsplice and shrink wrap still is not as good as solder. Even when the butsplice is perfectly clean it still adds some resistance. Shrink wrap usually doesn`t seal 100% either, but on a soldered joint it doens`t really matter since even if you get the solder wet it cannot corrode inside the splice.

I always prefer to solder, but if you can`t there is a way to get a connection that is almost as good. Start out by using a quality butt splice, then coat the buttsplice with a liquid electrical tape (I like 3m Scotchkote electrical coating, its not cheap, but it is very good stuff). You want to make sure to push the coating in the ends of the connector around the wire. After that dries shrink wrap over the top of it.

You can also buy shrinkwrap with waterproofing glue already on the inside of it, but I don`t think they sell it at homeimprovement or autoparts stores, I think it is more of an electrical supplyhouse item

pearceleather

So your saying that after all that, we are actually saying the same thing?

I stand by my statement. If you don't know how to "properly" solder, crimp! You'll have a better connection. I suspect that most of the guys that will do nothing but solder are of an older generation. I maybe wrong, but you old guys are hard to teach new tricks too.

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

I can`t speak for anyone else here, but I`m only 23.

How is it that people can overheat the wire anyway, I have never had that problem. I know it is possible to melt the insulation if you put too much heat in, but I have never been able to put enough heat in to weaken the wire.