custom grind for cam
#1
custom grind for cam
So I have a motor coming to me, and before I stick it in the car I plan on changing the cam out. At least I think I am going to. In any case, I'm thinking of doing the 4/7 swap. Anyone really do this? What all is involved, just swap the plug wires?? Isn't their also another two cylinders you can swap, can you do both? Supposedly its less wear and tear on the motor right?? Just curious before I fill out my cam desires paperwork.
#3
I just want to squeeze as much HP out of it as I can. The motor has forged rods and pistons, and I will be using nitrous. I figure while I get a custom grind if its worth power why not do it?
Anyone else have any opinions on this? I already searched and the thread that popped up had really gone no where, but that was a while back, so someone has had to have done this since.
Anyone else have any opinions on this? I already searched and the thread that popped up had really gone no where, but that was a while back, so someone has had to have done this since.
#4
if you get a custom cam, have the cam supplier give you as much information as possible as how to setup your cam + springs + rockers and tune. If not, it will not be worth it and could cause severe damage. Thats the problem with custom cams, they require much more effort and money to squeeze in an extra 5-10rwhp here and there with less duration and better drive-ability. You have to ask yourself if its really worth it for a cam only car making barely more rwhp than an off the shelf cam, where you could make up that space with gears, suspension, tires or what not.
However for a H/C, obviously it works, but LT1 heads don't flow enough, and you don't need over .600 lift to get 5 more rwhp. Off the shelf is your best choice.
However for a H/C, obviously it works, but LT1 heads don't flow enough, and you don't need over .600 lift to get 5 more rwhp. Off the shelf is your best choice.
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#8
Forget about the 4/7 or 2/3 swap. Class racers have been doing this for a few years to try to get an edge on the competition where the rules are really strict. You're talking about <5 hp difference on engines making 650 hp. On a street LT1, you could gain more by adding 2 deg of duration, swapping to roller 1.6 rockers, optimizing quench, or even adding a throttle body airfoil. Also, for your car, an off-the-shelf cam would be fine.
Mike
Mike
#13
Yeah that and I think they are $500? I know they are way more expensive for a throttle body than one without the nitrous ports, but Nitrous Outlet makes a nice plate for the LT1, or at least I hope they still make it.
The only head work that is done is that the heads/intake have been port matched. I would have loved to have made 400rwhp N/A with a cam and bolt ons, but I guess that is a unrealistic goal??? How much head work would need to be done? Don't know if I want to shell the money out for a LE2 combo or not.
If anyone out there has some used heads for sale that have already been worked over let me know, the search function never seems to be working in the parts for sale thread.
The only head work that is done is that the heads/intake have been port matched. I would have loved to have made 400rwhp N/A with a cam and bolt ons, but I guess that is a unrealistic goal??? How much head work would need to be done? Don't know if I want to shell the money out for a LE2 combo or not.
If anyone out there has some used heads for sale that have already been worked over let me know, the search function never seems to be working in the parts for sale thread.
#14
Originally Posted by camar0corey
I would have loved to have made 400rwhp N/A with a cam and bolt ons, but I guess that is a unrealistic goal???
Originally Posted by camar0corey
If anyone out there has some used heads for sale that have already been worked over let me know, the search function never seems to be working in the parts for sale thread.
Mike
#17
Yeah, forgot about the injector part of the equation. Guess I won't be trying the 4/7 swap. Can you change the injector firing order in the PCM?? Oh well I'll give up on the idea I suppose.
Whats so crazy about me wanting to find some already worked over stock heads or aftermarket heads that are used??
Whats so crazy about me wanting to find some already worked over stock heads or aftermarket heads that are used??
#18
Originally Posted by camar0corey
Yeah, forgot about the injector part of the equation. Guess I won't be trying the 4/7 swap. Can you change the injector firing order in the PCM?? Oh well I'll give up on the idea I suppose.
Whats so crazy about me wanting to find some already worked over stock heads or aftermarket heads that are used??
Whats so crazy about me wanting to find some already worked over stock heads or aftermarket heads that are used??
Don't take this as an insult. Not everyone (including myself) needs to do the 4/7 swap. It's just that some people hear about stuff like this and think it's the "cat's meow" because class racers do it, but there's alot of stuff that they do that have a very small gain and are not worth it for us.
Mike
#19
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Yeah Mike helped me out a lot in picking a cam not too long ago. He's got good advice in my opinion. The thing he was saying about the 4/7 swap is that our car's aren't gonna see the benefit of it. I think it was more of an "inside joke" than anything. The 4/7 guys are doing all that crazy stuff for $$$, which some of those things I had never heard about either. I think he assumed if you're gonna go for the piddly stuff, used stuff didn't fit the job description. I'm with you though, get a good cam and some good deal heads and let the big cat eat. If you do find some used heads, get the good names like AI and LE or some flow sheets. Don't skimp on heads but do look for good deals.
#20
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there is one rule to follow for the budget oriented hot rodder, KISS (keep it simple stupid). spend the money where it counts the most. the LT1 has been around long enough that custom grinds are almost pointless. and most "customs" from the speed shops are not as custom as one may believe. don't be afraid of used heads, just be cautious. some of us can't afford this stuff new and have to expect a few bad parts. if you buy used buy it locally, so you can see it yourself. or buy it from some on with a good sellers reputation, though that isn't alway fail safe. if i were you, i would buy a stock set of heads and have them checked and ported. go with nitrous as long as you have the bottom end. don't cheap out on the valve train, but don't go over board with exotic pushrods and springs. be honest with yourself on your cam choice. and after you have yourself a well rounded small block, prepare yourself to repair/upgrade everything behind it.