losaltos6

Can someone recomend me a good oil for my LT1, its in need of one and i don't know what to use for summer weather. how many quarts should i put in for best summer conditions since i hear it will be hot this summer. Thanks

cruzin94

iTrader: (2)

i use moble 1 fully synthetic 10w-30

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

You are VERY likely to get many ignorant replies.
If someone recommends M1 5w-30 or 10w-30 it is VERY likely they know nothing on the subject. If someone recommends 10w because it is thicker than 5w then again they know nothing on the subject.

I have been over this subject more times than I care to search my user name and 0w-30 for some reading. I am not the only one here who has done real research and once you do that search you will quickly see the few others respond in those posts. The "usual" info people hand out on this subject is flat out poor, like it or not that is the truth. The posts you will find in the archives have info on how my opinions were developed and where you can go to get MEASURED data on the subject.

always faster

iTrader: (6)

Go search on the forum of :
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

There is a lot of good info and a lot of oil analysis.

The best 3 oil for a ltx base after real oil analysis are:
Castrol German Synthec :0w30
Amsoil European Synthec:5w40
Mobil 1 Synthec : 0w40

I ve search a lot on this forum and ask a lot of question so i dont care if the ltx base came with 5w30 mobil 1 .This oil has been analyze and it supposed to be way to liquid like 5w20.

That_guy

iTrader: (1)

what about purple synthetic i was thinkin bout runin that on my T/A

jaguar5822

iTrader: (8)

+1 for Castrol Syntec 0w30 in a year round daily driver in Ohio, oh yea I've got snow tires on a spare set of wheels. Funny thing is when I drive by people like there isn't any snow, when most people are scared to drive. I love having the brains to use the right tires for the weather.

buffman

iTrader: (9)

I would go as far to say the m1 0w40 should perform decent in an LT1 but I wouldn't say great results would be expected from running a UOA. Nothign wrong with any of the castrol syntec grades (0w30 ???) or Amsoil for that matter.

Revelation Z28

iTrader: (10)

what about royal purple?

buffman

iTrader: (9)

royal purple IMO would be on par with the M1 oils, but for the price it's overrated.

Revelation Z28

iTrader: (10)

BUT ITS TEH PURPLE!!!!




yea ive seen it go for $8 a quart here.

F8L LT1 Z28

AMSOIL is the ****. Also royal purple is good too

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Based on what information?

F8L LT1 Z28

Based on the dyno that I have done.

What do you run all mighty LT1 GOD????????

That_guy

iTrader: (1)

i asked about royal purple earlier lol yes tell us bout the dyno cause im thinkin about adding it to my lt1 cause i just learned how to change oil lol noob.

F8L LT1 Z28

I did a dyno with out royal purple in my car that same day I changed to royal purple and pick up 3rwhp not bad for $25.00 oil change. It was on the same dyno on the same day 1 hour a part

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

So you think the dyno is the measure?

IMO Used Oil Analysis is the measure. They take an oil sample and MEASURE how much wear metal content there is and can compare the remaining additives to fresh oil to see how "worn out" the oil is.

What does MEASURED data on how well the oil is protecting parts mean though .
A dyno is such a precision tool that 3hp is a signifigant and a solid meaningful number .

REALITY is tiedown tension can change chassis dyno numbers 3hp and that is well withing the error range of any dyno.

Oil analysis is THE measure of an oil's performance, a dyno is a measure of HP and more often than not just an ego tool really.

I have no real loyalty far as oils, tried a LOT of them. I am intelligent enough to do research and understand that almost any available oil is "good enough" at least for a while. What seperates what is truely good and waht isn't is fairly minor wear metal content differences and fairly signifigant in how long you can leave an oil in service. RP has a pretty well known tendancy to "shear down" and rapidly lose viscosity, something like Amsoil will hold viscosity well till it starts to get old then it oxidizes and actually gets thicker.

If I could find a consistent supply of the German Castrol it is what I would run, I have only seen it twice though in several years of looking at EVERY place I go that sells oil. Other have far better luck finding it.

Another thing to note is that oil makers change formulas, M1 5w-30 may well have been the best oil for the LT1 15 years ago, but 3 years ago was a mediocre choice at best, iron numbers in particular were high, haven't looked into it real recently but last time I did the M1 30wt oils were getting thicker which means they were changing something again.

You people really should try and do research and measure the RIGHT properties of things before recommending them rather than just going off of advertizing and the reputation that builds.
Fram for example the undisputed number one name in oil filters is easily argued as the worst available oil filter on the market once you cut one open. Service station guys that cut open a lot of filters find a lot of them internally falling apart at normal oil change intervals.

Mattybz28

F8L LT1 Z28 = Owned.

F8L LT1 Z28

Owned??? so you mean to tell me that you think royal purple is **** or how about AMSOIL?? Is that **** too?

F8L LT1 Z28

Since AMSOIL is a sponsor here I would like to see what they have to say when read that you said that all the motor oils are the same.

94z28L

iTrader: (4)

i guess thats pretty much what he means