Recomend oil brand
If someone recommends M1 5w-30 or 10w-30 it is VERY likely they know nothing on the subject. If someone recommends 10w because it is thicker than 5w then again they know nothing on the subject.
I have been over this subject more times than I care to search my user name and 0w-30 for some reading. I am not the only one here who has done real research and once you do that search you will quickly see the few others respond in those posts. The "usual" info people hand out on this subject is flat out poor, like it or not that is the truth. The posts you will find in the archives have info on how my opinions were developed and where you can go to get MEASURED data on the subject.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
There is a lot of good info and a lot of oil analysis.
The best 3 oil for a ltx base after real oil analysis are:
Castrol German Synthec :0w30
Amsoil European Synthec:5w40
Mobil 1 Synthec : 0w40
I ve search a lot on this forum and ask a lot of question so i dont care if the ltx base came with 5w30 mobil 1 .This oil has been analyze and it supposed to be way to liquid like 5w20.
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What do you run all mighty LT1 GOD????????
So you think the dyno is the measure?
IMO Used Oil Analysis is the measure. They take an oil sample and MEASURE how much wear metal content there is and can compare the remaining additives to fresh oil to see how "worn out" the oil is.
What does MEASURED data on how well the oil is protecting parts mean though
. A dyno is such a precision tool that 3hp is a signifigant and a solid meaningful number
.REALITY is tiedown tension can change chassis dyno numbers 3hp and that is well withing the error range of any dyno.
Oil analysis is THE measure of an oil's performance, a dyno is a measure of HP and more often than not just an ego tool really.
I have no real loyalty far as oils, tried a LOT of them. I am intelligent enough to do research and understand that almost any available oil is "good enough" at least for a while. What seperates what is truely good and waht isn't is fairly minor wear metal content differences and fairly signifigant in how long you can leave an oil in service. RP has a pretty well known tendancy to "shear down" and rapidly lose viscosity, something like Amsoil will hold viscosity well till it starts to get old then it oxidizes and actually gets thicker.
If I could find a consistent supply of the German Castrol it is what I would run, I have only seen it twice though in several years of looking at EVERY place I go that sells oil. Other have far better luck finding it.
Another thing to note is that oil makers change formulas, M1 5w-30 may well have been the best oil for the LT1 15 years ago, but 3 years ago was a mediocre choice at best, iron numbers in particular were high, haven't looked into it real recently but last time I did the M1 30wt oils were getting thicker which means they were changing something again.
You people really should try and do research and measure the RIGHT properties of things before recommending them rather than just going off of advertizing and the reputation that builds.
Fram for example the undisputed number one name in oil filters is easily argued as the worst available oil filter on the market once you cut one open. Service station guys that cut open a lot of filters find a lot of them internally falling apart at normal oil change intervals.
Last edited by F8L LT1 Z28; May 16, 2007 at 06:37 PM.

