ORR Allignment?
#1
10 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Marysville, WA
Posts: 9,448
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ORR Allignment?
I am taking my car into Speedware on Friday to get an allignment more suitable to road racing. I told the guy I wanted the same setup Boyce got, but he wasn't sure if he still had the file. So my question is if he doesn't have the numbers, what do I want? (besides as close to a 50/50 balance as they can achieve)
#2
Teching In
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Shoreline, WA
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Not sure about ORR, but for road racing (closed circuit) I run as much caster and negitive camber as possible, which isn't much if you have stock control arms. I run my ITE '94 Z28 with about -1.4 to -1.6 camber (stock contol arms), 4.5* caster and 0* toe. This works pretty well for the speeds I see at PR (145mph +/-) through turn 1.
BTW, nothing against Speedware, but Firestone does "lifetime alignments" for a pretty resonable price compared to a one time alignment by Speedware. I paid about $250 for my lifetime alignment about six or seven years ago and still get them reset every year or so for free. A box of doughnuts for the techs to make sure you get your custom alignment specs helps to!
Steve
BTW, nothing against Speedware, but Firestone does "lifetime alignments" for a pretty resonable price compared to a one time alignment by Speedware. I paid about $250 for my lifetime alignment about six or seven years ago and still get them reset every year or so for free. A box of doughnuts for the techs to make sure you get your custom alignment specs helps to!
Steve
#3
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (9)
Originally Posted by Racecar 31
Not sure about ORR, but for road racing (closed circuit) I run as much caster and negitive camber as possible, which isn't much if you have stock control arms. I run my ITE '94 Z28 with about -1.4 to -1.6 camber (stock contol arms), 4.5* caster and 0* toe. This works pretty well for the speeds I see at PR (145mph +/-) through turn 1.
Steve
Steve
Road Race alignments on a ORR car are a recipe for disaster.
1/16th toe in
.5* camber
MAX amount of caster you can get.
#5
TECH Addict
Originally Posted by NataSS Inc
Road Race alignments on a ORR car are a recipe for disaster.
1/16th toe in
.5* camber
MAX amount of caster you can get.
1/16th toe in
.5* camber
MAX amount of caster you can get.
"0" toe-in
"0" to .5 degrees negative camber and
MAX amount of caster you can get
B
#6
10 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Marysville, WA
Posts: 9,448
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bill, wassup buddy? (I think you should sign in as BS)
Max caster decreases rolling resistance, right? And the neg camber makes it turn better, but will it wear out my soft tires at speed?
But now I'm confused, was Boyce's calling for neg or pos .5* camber?
Max caster decreases rolling resistance, right? And the neg camber makes it turn better, but will it wear out my soft tires at speed?
But now I'm confused, was Boyce's calling for neg or pos .5* camber?
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Addict
Originally Posted by WAHUSKER
Bill, wassup buddy? (I think you should sign in as BS)
Max caster decreases rolling resistance, right? And the neg camber makes it turn better, but will it wear out my soft tires at speed?
But now I'm confused, was Boyce's calling for neg or pos .5* camber?
Max caster decreases rolling resistance, right? And the neg camber makes it turn better, but will it wear out my soft tires at speed?
But now I'm confused, was Boyce's calling for neg or pos .5* camber?
Negative camber in the amounts that we're talking and for the speeds you will be traveling will have NO detrimental affects at all. If you were going to be traveling 180+ I'd want to adjust the specs a little. A "little" negative camber will eliminate some push and make it bite a little harder on turn-in. You're going to find that at high speeds cars tend to float/push to the outside of the intended line and can use a little help in this area.
Zero toe-in as apposed to 1/16 toe-in will make the transition from going straight to beginning your turn in smoother and more predictable. The car will "feel" more relaxed going thru s-turns etc. although it will also "feel" a little more jumpy while going straight. I personally am willing to put up with a little fidget on a straight to gain some feel and confidence in the turns. Both schools of thought will get you to the finish line
#9
10 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Marysville, WA
Posts: 9,448
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the details Bill. Not something I usually need to think about with pizza cutters on the front end with no weight on them. I've been told this course has very few turns, mostly sweepers, and lots of straight aways, so maybe the 1/16 toe would be a better choice....
#10
10 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Marysville, WA
Posts: 9,448
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ellis & I drove the car a little yesterday & all I can say is wow! The car hasn't felt this good in....****, it NEVER felt this good. Not even new. I went with 1/16 toe, 0-.5* camber, and 5* of caster. It's stable (even in the truck ruts on I 5), isn't twitchy at all, and begs you to throw it into a corner fast & hard. And the tire rod end they replaced got rid of almost all of the play in the wheel. I can't wait to hit the B 100 & see how she does...thanks Boyce & Bill!!!
#12
10 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Marysville, WA
Posts: 9,448
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Racehead
I think you need a 2nd opinion ...
Oh, and did I mention that from a 50-60 mph roll it will lay down a 50' black mark? Probably longer if I didn't lift.
We still haven't gotten the meth to work right, but with an open dif, I don't need anymore power. We would like to have the cooling affect for the 100* heat we'll be in, but with straight race gas I'm hoping it will be OK.