Time to admit I need help. F-body mechanics in here please.
05-30-2007, 07:51 PM
#1
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Time to admit I need help. F-body mechanics in here please. Okay so this Cam swap has been going on for a week or two now (mainly waiting for parts, being lazy, changing my mind on cam, etc.)
I have the front bumper off (replacing), the intake manifold, pass side LT, fuel rail, coil packs, plugs, water pump, radiator, etc.
The Problems:
How do I get the P/S pump off? (also replacing)
* A normal harmonic balancer puller won't work, so I bought a 6" three arm gear puller ( is that right?)
*I bought angine assembly lube, what all should I use it on?
*There is oil/fluid all over the driver side of the engine/ where the engine and trans meet and back where the trans meets the crossmember. However I have a very bad P/S leak could it all be from that? I can see my flywheel (edge of it) and it is dry so I'm hoping it's not a rear main.
*The Low Oil Level sensor, do I have to drop the pan to replace.
*If it is a rear main leak, whats the best way to get to the top trans bolts?
*How do these solo-bleed things work? I bought them (4)
*I couldn't find a valve spring compressor at Pepboys that would work, they only had the giant one, or would that work?
Well geeh look at that list, this is the first F-body I've owned and the first time I've done any work this extensive on it.
I have the front bumper off (replacing), the intake manifold, pass side LT, fuel rail, coil packs, plugs, water pump, radiator, etc.
The Problems:
How do I get the P/S pump off? (also replacing)
* A normal harmonic balancer puller won't work, so I bought a 6" three arm gear puller ( is that right?)
*I bought angine assembly lube, what all should I use it on?
*There is oil/fluid all over the driver side of the engine/ where the engine and trans meet and back where the trans meets the crossmember. However I have a very bad P/S leak could it all be from that? I can see my flywheel (edge of it) and it is dry so I'm hoping it's not a rear main.
*The Low Oil Level sensor, do I have to drop the pan to replace.
*If it is a rear main leak, whats the best way to get to the top trans bolts?
*How do these solo-bleed things work? I bought them (4)
*I couldn't find a valve spring compressor at Pepboys that would work, they only had the giant one, or would that work?
Well geeh look at that list, this is the first F-body I've owned and the first time I've done any work this extensive on it.
Last edited by Fibbado; 05-30-2007 at 08:20 PM.
05-30-2007, 08:18 PM
#3
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Well i guesse that site (which I already knew about) helps with two problems. I would still like advice from people that have done similiar things.
05-30-2007, 08:23 PM
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I also used the crane valve spring tool. It is by far the best...and also the most expensive. But worth every penny in my opinion. It made the spring swap so dam easy.
05-30-2007, 09:23 PM
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For the top trans bolts - a really long extension, (like 24 inches), and a universal works great.
I've never had the oil level sender out but it looks to be easily accessible on the pax side of the oil pan. I think you should be able to remove it with the pan on.
I didn't use assembly lube on my cam, just oil.
Hope that helps, good luck...
I've never had the oil level sender out but it looks to be easily accessible on the pax side of the oil pan. I think you should be able to remove it with the pan on.
I didn't use assembly lube on my cam, just oil.
Hope that helps, good luck...
05-31-2007, 12:29 AM
#7
Originally Posted by Fibbado
Yeah i was hoping to avoid having to buy an expensive one, this project is already expensive enough. Thanks for the suggestion though.
top trans bolts you get from the far back with a long extension, at least on my m6 you do.
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05-31-2007, 11:42 AM
#10
there is a bolt on the back side that really sucks to get to. It was alot easier to get the bolt out after the water pump is off because you have to use a wrench. With the water pump on the wrench would hit the water pump. It takes a little time but it's not that bad.
05-31-2007, 03:58 PM
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not sure why you took off the bumper? but any way, ap makes a nice puller
http://www.jackxchange.com/products/7822.cfm
how far is doylestown from gbg, I could help you out and lend you my more tool, lifter rods, and balancer puller, as well as pretty much any thing else special to ls1's, I think I have the longer arp bolt as well.
http://www.jackxchange.com/products/7822.cfm
how far is doylestown from gbg, I could help you out and lend you my more tool, lifter rods, and balancer puller, as well as pretty much any thing else special to ls1's, I think I have the longer arp bolt as well.
06-05-2007, 09:20 AM
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Rent the P/S puller from AutoZone $40 you'll get all of your rental fee back or Harbor freight sells the same P/S pulley that AutoZone rents for $20.if you are talking about speed bleeders for your brakes , top off your master cylinder start with the one farthest from the master cylinder (RR) first. remove your old bleeder valve, install the new bleeder valve and run it down until it is completely closed, then open it up 1/4 turn hook a bleeder hose to the new bleeder screw, and pump your brakes until all of the air is out of the system-be sure not to let the master cylinder run dry while you are pumping the brakes repeat on all 4 calipers.
