blacksskid07

iTrader: (4)

I'll have my new master here ina day or 2 and wondering what is the best wat to wrap the line to prevent the fuid inside heating up and turning BLACK.

My90Iroc

iTrader: (26)

I found some heat shielding insulation (I think made by taylor) at the local speed shop that was the perfect size. Only thing I had to do was cut off the piece of rubber around the master line that protects it from the body.

blacksskid07

iTrader: (4)

I'll have to look into that this week



anyone else?

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

I use a length of heater hose sliced lengthwise.
Then wrap it in some heat reflective tape, like the stuff from a home improvement store.

bigsticksupra

iTrader: (3)

i just got my new 02 master cylinder and i wrapped it with some heater hose sliced length wise. taped it up and wrapped it over with some 2000degree DEI fire sleeve. i am installing my mcleod steet twin, new 02 master and slave, remote bleeder, and motul 600 fluid clutch fluid. i hope this will prevent any dead pedal and clutch hydraulic related issues that many people have. i did not opt for the mcleod master cylinder because of the problems people have been having with the o rings going out. however with my luck, i can almost BET i will still have problems..




as you can see, braided metal line, heater hose, then the dei fire sleeve slides over everything snugly.

blacksskid07

iTrader: (4)

where can I pick all of this up at?

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

Autozone, NAPA, Advanced auto. Thats how I did mine too and I havent had any hydro issues yet.

Ranger

Another approach when the master is going in is to slide Koolsox over the hydraulic line from the reservoir to the slave. That will help some.

But the real issue is the location of the clutch actuator (slave) inside the bell housing. That position inside a caldron of heat cooks the clutch fluid quickly.

Normal operating temp of the slave is about the same as the crank, around 230 degrees. But thrown in launch and high-rpm shifts, the friction of the mating of those rotating parts produces vast amounts of heat, temps above 400. That makes the fluid deteriorate and change color. And degraded fluid will boil at a much lower temp than 400. That makes gas and prevents the hydraulics from operating normally.

Morale of the story is no matter what brand of clutch fluid you use, change it frequently. That will keep the boiling point near the number on the can and make for a happy clutch.

Better write-up is here: Taking Care of Your Clutch: the Ranger Protocol

Ranger

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

Here is how I wrapped mine with pics.

Justin

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/710007-covering-clutch-line.html

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

Good stuff Ranger!!! I agree, change it often.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Need one and gm can't seem to find pic or part number...anyone know it?Can you even order the part from gm?

Ranger

C6 Corvettes come stock with the clutch hydraulic lines sorta "heat shielded" with foil face insulation. Plus Chevy specs Super DOT4 Brake fluid for the clutch, but just DOT3 for the brakes.

Even with the stock insulation, clutch fluid still degrades and turns black.

So if you're after better heat-shielding, you'll need to go aftermarket.

But we can't shield our way out of the problem because the slave actuator (full of clutch fluid) is inside the bell housing, where the heat is most intense.

Ranger

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

We took regular fuel line, slit it length wise, went from the top to the bottom, and used aluminum/reflective take and wrapped it. Also swapped out the fluid which was nasty, much better now!!

gun5l1ng3r

I just changed the master and wrapped the line with fuel line and 3M foil tape ($8/roll!!) and a few days later it is back to being mushy, like it was before the master and fluid change.

Is it very important to move the M/C line as far from the Exhaust manifolds as possible? I was thinking about fabbing up some of my own sheet metal heat shielding, like the stuff on the bottom of the car stock. I just don't get it, my car hasn't shifted smoothly for 26K miles!!!!

Z28/2002

iTrader: (27)

Thanks for the link Ranger. I gotta do this when I get back stateside

blacksskid07

iTrader: (4)

got the new master, did the drill mod, and will be wrapping it up tomorrow after I bench bleed it

As soon as my SS comes back from the body shop, I'll slap it in... please pray this will fix everything