time for new brakes
#1
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time for new brakes
i am in the market for new brakes after my cruising trip tonight proved the stock ones are shot!!
i'm leaning towards hawk pads (the ones that aren't for track use, i think its hps)
brembo blanks
stainless steel brake lines (whos kit is the best, and i have traction control too)
ate fluid
what do you guys think??
i use the car for going to work on nice days and for autocrossing.
is there anything else i need??
where is the best/cheapest place to go for these??
thanks
tony
i'm leaning towards hawk pads (the ones that aren't for track use, i think its hps)
brembo blanks
stainless steel brake lines (whos kit is the best, and i have traction control too)
ate fluid
what do you guys think??
i use the car for going to work on nice days and for autocrossing.
is there anything else i need??
where is the best/cheapest place to go for these??
thanks
tony
#2
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those hawk pads are real nice there some good pads, you should probly look into getting some cross drilled or slotted rotors if ur going all out, or have u ever thought of the C5 corvette conversion calipers, i got some c5 front calipers if you wanna buy them from me, pm me if ur interested
#3
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Originally Posted by ae13291
you should probly look into getting some cross drilled or slotted rotors if ur going all out
Stick with blanks.
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Originally Posted by VIP1
Cross-drilled/slotted are not an upgrade.
Stick with blanks.
Stick with blanks.
Also the C5 setup is a great upgrade if you've got 17" or larger wheels. Apparently Torq Thrust II's work with a small spacer too.
I still need to order up some of that ATE fluid to try out myself. I've just been using Valvoline's synthetic from Autozone the last few years in my cars.
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Originally Posted by DuronClocker
I don't understand why we need to say this so often? Can people not read?
Also the C5 setup is a great upgrade if you've got 17" or larger wheels. Apparently Torq Thrust II's work with a small spacer too.
I still need to order up some of that ATE fluid to try out myself. I've just been using Valvoline's synthetic from Autozone the last few years in my cars.
Also the C5 setup is a great upgrade if you've got 17" or larger wheels. Apparently Torq Thrust II's work with a small spacer too.
I still need to order up some of that ATE fluid to try out myself. I've just been using Valvoline's synthetic from Autozone the last few years in my cars.
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#11
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Originally Posted by fast01z28
this was news to me. on my previous car the blank rotors would warp every 15k miles so the best fix is to go with slotted rotors. i hear that vettes have a similar issue. i guess if the camaro doesnt have the problem then you are right, blank face rotors eliminate a lot of the issues that slotted rotors bring, and donr craxk like most drilled rotors.
http://www.wilwood.com/Centers/Infor..._answer/07.asp
Originally Posted by Wilwood
Why are some rotors drilled or slotted?
Rotors are drilled to reduce rotating weight, an issue near and dear to racers searching for ways to minimize unsprung weight. Drilling diminishes a rotor's durability and cooling capacity.
Slots or grooves in rotor faces are partly a carryover from the days of asbestos pads. Asbestos and other organic pads were prone to "glazing" and the slots tended to help "scrape or de-glaze" them. Drilling and slotting rotors has become popular in street applications for their pure aesthetic value. Wilwood has a large selection of drilled and slotted rotors for a wide range of applications.
Rotors are drilled to reduce rotating weight, an issue near and dear to racers searching for ways to minimize unsprung weight. Drilling diminishes a rotor's durability and cooling capacity.
Slots or grooves in rotor faces are partly a carryover from the days of asbestos pads. Asbestos and other organic pads were prone to "glazing" and the slots tended to help "scrape or de-glaze" them. Drilling and slotting rotors has become popular in street applications for their pure aesthetic value. Wilwood has a large selection of drilled and slotted rotors for a wide range of applications.
Baer
http://www.baer.com/technical/faq/index.php
Originally Posted by Baer
What are the benefits to cross-drilling, slotting, and zinc-washing my rotors?
In years past, cross-drilling and/or slotting the rotor for racing purposes was beneficial by providing a way to expel the gasses created when the bonding agents employed to manufacture the pads began to break down at extreme temperatures. This condition is often referred to as "green pad fade" or "outgassing". When it does occur, the driver still has a good firm brake pedal, but simply little or no friction. Since this normally happens only at temperatures witnessed in racing, this can be very exciting! However, with today´s race pad technology, “outgassing” is no longer much of a concern. When shopping for races pads, or even ultra high performance road pads, look for the phrases, "dynamic surface treatment", "race ready", and/or, "pre-burnished". When these or similar statements are made by the pad manufacturer, the pad in question will likely have little or no problem with “outgassing”. Ironically more pedestrian pads used on most streetcars will still exhibit “outgassing”, but only when used at temperatures normally only encountered on the racetrack. Although cross-drilling and/or slotting will provide a welcome path to expend any gasses when and if they develop, it is primarily a visual enhancement behind today’s often wide-open wheel designs. Cross-drilling offers the greatest gas relief pathway, but creates potential "stress risers" from which cracks can occur. Baer´s rotors are cast with cross-drilling in mind, from the material specified, to curved vanes, behind which the holes are placed to minimize potential crack migration. Slotted surfaces are what Baer recommends for track only use. Slotted only rotors are offered as an option for any of Baer’s offerings.
In years past, cross-drilling and/or slotting the rotor for racing purposes was beneficial by providing a way to expel the gasses created when the bonding agents employed to manufacture the pads began to break down at extreme temperatures. This condition is often referred to as "green pad fade" or "outgassing". When it does occur, the driver still has a good firm brake pedal, but simply little or no friction. Since this normally happens only at temperatures witnessed in racing, this can be very exciting! However, with today´s race pad technology, “outgassing” is no longer much of a concern. When shopping for races pads, or even ultra high performance road pads, look for the phrases, "dynamic surface treatment", "race ready", and/or, "pre-burnished". When these or similar statements are made by the pad manufacturer, the pad in question will likely have little or no problem with “outgassing”. Ironically more pedestrian pads used on most streetcars will still exhibit “outgassing”, but only when used at temperatures normally only encountered on the racetrack. Although cross-drilling and/or slotting will provide a welcome path to expend any gasses when and if they develop, it is primarily a visual enhancement behind today’s often wide-open wheel designs. Cross-drilling offers the greatest gas relief pathway, but creates potential "stress risers" from which cracks can occur. Baer´s rotors are cast with cross-drilling in mind, from the material specified, to curved vanes, behind which the holes are placed to minimize potential crack migration. Slotted surfaces are what Baer recommends for track only use. Slotted only rotors are offered as an option for any of Baer’s offerings.
Check out the links in the sticky:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....91&postcount=5
#12
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with traction control you have 2 rubber hoses going from chasis to rear axle as opposed to 1 hose for non-traction control cars. The earl's braided line kit, which seems to be the most common, only comes with 5 hoses and for traction control cars they screw you by saying you don't use the 5th hose. Kinda defeats the purpose of going with braided lines and leaving 2 rubber hoses in there.
The russell kit (russel street legal braided line kit) comes with the 2 center rear hoses. As for cheapest place to get, I get most of my stuff these days from either jegs or summitt. I haven't seen any of the sponsors even carry the russel line kit.
I will say however the earl's solo bleeds (caliper bleeder screw) are awesome, definitely get those if you'll be bleeding brakes yourself the old fashioned way.
The russell kit (russel street legal braided line kit) comes with the 2 center rear hoses. As for cheapest place to get, I get most of my stuff these days from either jegs or summitt. I haven't seen any of the sponsors even carry the russel line kit.
I will say however the earl's solo bleeds (caliper bleeder screw) are awesome, definitely get those if you'll be bleeding brakes yourself the old fashioned way.