Black01M6SS

iTrader: (3)

I'll start off by saying I did do a free air cal before I installed the wideband. I don't want people that might know what they are talking about to read half way and assume that is the problem.

So today I installed my LM-1 wideband in the drivers side header where my factory sensor was located. I spliced into the purple wire of the o2 connecter and wired it to channel 1 of the LM-1's analog output so that I could use the wideband in place of the factory narrowband as the instructions state. I also have a narrowband AF ratio guage wired into this wire from before I had the LM-1. It is still hooked up.

Before this install my blinky light guage seemed to work normal. Nice and bright and blinking all over the place. Now the thing just sits maxed out lean at idle and doesn't move unless I get on the gas pretty hard, in which case it blinks all over the place but is very dim.

More confusing info. The LM-1 is saying I'm anywhere from 19:1 to 22:1 at idle. which would explain why my blinky light guage is pegged red if it is working correctly. I wanted to see if I could make it change with EFI Live so I went into the active controls and used the commaned AFR secton and started richening it up. Even though the AFR I was commanding with EFI Live didn't match up with what the LM-1 said it actually was, I did see a change when adjusting it. Example : commanding 9:1 AFR made my LM-1 read ~12:1. Playing with this I could make my AFR show up around 14.6:1 on the LM-1 and my blinky light guage would start moving again...still very dim though.

I would like to note that the car also runs 100% better when commanding the AFR lower with EFI Live. I didn't think it would run at 20:1 AFR but I do think it is somewhat correct because the car idles like **** when I give the computer back control of the AFR but idles normally when commanded in the 13-14:1 AFR area. It also shows anywhere from 9.8-11:1 at WOT

I would just assume that the car is running way lean at idle and that everything is hooked up correctly but when viewing the o2 sensor activity with EFI Live bank one sensor 1 stays around .45v at all times. Even when I unplug the output from the LM-1. I viewed these pids before the install and it was switching normally just like bank 2. The blinky light guage is wired into the end of the o2 extension that plugs into the factory connector. I wired output channel 1 of the LM-1 to the other end of the extension. So I never messed with anything from before with the exception of the purple wire getting signal from the LM-1 now instead of the factory o2.

The codes I get with EFI Live are inactivity bank 1 sensor 1. I figured that was comming from watching the pids.

I figure the answers I'm going to get are that its not switching because its so lean. The other side is switching so I don't think thats it. Plus it even stays the same with the LM-1 output unplugged. I did do a free air cal before I installed the guage and it came out to 20.9 just as the instructions said it should. I also know I hooked up the LM-1 output to the correct wire because my narrowband o2 sensor showed activity before and after the install.


I know this was long. I just hope someone understands whats going on. I'm lost as to why the pid reads the same with the LM-1 output unplugged.

Blades

What are you using to log wbo2 data? EFI Live or the included software from Innovate? Try the innovate software first and see if things match up. What is the voltage output from the narrowband in mV? Does it match up with the other bank? What is cruise AFR? Good vac at idle? Anything done with idle timing? Whats inj pulse width on each bank at idle? Your tune sounds like its ****** wacky - whats it running 2-bar OS, MAF-only etc etc.

Black01M6SS

iTrader: (3)

Hold up. I think your going a little farther into this than I'm ready for. I know the tune is off but I want to first figure out why my o2's are not reading correctly.

The LM-1 has a digital readout on it which matches up with the software version on my laptop so thats where I'm getting the wbo2 reading from.

I'm not using a narrowband on the drivers side. Instead the wideband is in that bung. The LM-1 has two output channels. The instructions say that channel 1 is programed from the factory to simulate a narrowband o2 so that you can use it in place of a stock sensor and that is how I have it set up.

I used an o2 extension to do all my splicing so I didn't mess up the wiring harness. The purple wire that connects to the stock narrowband sensor is now wired into my wideband controller output. The purple wire on the other end has one wire going to my narrowband afr guage and one going into the connector for the PCM. Tthe guage seems to be working with the exception of the lights being very dim and not switching unless I rev it up and let off.

Using EFI Live to view the pids bank 1 o2 stays at 450mV and bank 2 switch's normally. As far as the car or EFI Live knows there are still two narrowband o2's working. Or that should be the way it is. Bank 1 o2 should be getting its signal from my wideband controller now but even when I unplug the narrowband output from the controller EFI Live shows bank 1 o2 at 450mV.

My narrowband o2 guage is showing a change in voltage but EFI Live tells me the PCM is seeing 450mV all the time.

SSpdDmon

iTrader: (10)

IIRC, there are two wires that the PCM reads for the mV signal. The one you're connected to might be the right wire to tap into. But, I believe the other wire is grounded to the exhaust through the O2 sensor. See the wiring diagram below (from a '99 C5 manual)....

On a side note, why not just force the car into open loop and tune the car that way? Then, the PCM isn't worried about NBO2's and you can dial it in.

Black01M6SS

iTrader: (3)

I played around with it some more after I made that last post. I plugged the stock o2 sensor back in the connector. Signal wire cut but the computer can see the heater circut and think that everything is ok. I thought maybe it was ignoring that o2 because of the heater circut missing. After I did this it started switching between 0 and .5v really quickly but never got over .6v.

Unplug the narrowband output from the LM-1 and it still stays around .45-.5v but doesn't switch. I don't understand how that is possable because it should just be an open wire going to the PCM at that point. Turn the LM-1 off and it goes to 0.000v so now I do know that the PCM is seeing it do something.

Black01M6SS

iTrader: (3)

So the 4 wires from the stock o2. One is heater power, one is heater ground, one is o2 sensor signal and one is o2 sensor ground refererence? From the analog output of the LM-1 there are 3 wires. Channel 1, Channel 2, and ground. I didn't hook up the ground wire because I didn't see anywhere in the instructions about it. Should it be hooked into the o2 sensor ground ref then?

SSpdDmon

iTrader: (10)

When I said the other wire is grounded to the exhaust, I was talking about the ground reference in that diagram. Try grounding that wire (from your chopped extension). I think that's how you need to set it up.

Black01M6SS

iTrader: (3)

Worked, thanks! It looks like its switching correctly now. The adverages between the left and right side are very close. My narrowband AFR guage is still very dim though. Any idea as to what might be the cause? I know its not the power or ground because it is really bright during the warm up period but when the LM-1 starts working it is hard to see anything.

I know the narrowband AFR guage is useless but its already installed so I would like it to work.

01Z28M6

Please forgive me for breaking into this thread. I'm doing just what BlackO1M6SS with the same equipment LM-1 and 24" O2 extension) minus the NB gauge.

When you say to "ground that wire (from your chopped extension)" do you mean one end (going to the PCM) connects to the LM-1 #1 output and the other end of that cut purple wire should be grounded to the engine? Would that be the same as grounding the body of the narrow band sensor? THANKS for any clarification!

Thanks Black01M6SS for starting this thread.

SSpdDmon

iTrader: (10)

It's been my understanding that wire 'A' in the diagram above is grounded to the exhaust via the sensor. I would assume any chassis ground would do fine. The other wire (B) should be connected to the simulation wire from the sensor. You can then use wires C & D for the heater ground and heater power source for the LC1.

01Z28M6

And I was hoping the reply would be "yep, you've got it".

Your diagram is making more sense. "A" is the element low signal and "B" is that purple wire that goes to the sensor element high signal circuit. "C" and "D" are the heater and the LM-1 doesn't care anything about them, it's the PCM that needs to know they are there and functional. I'll just leave the NB sensor hooked up but not installed, clip a ground to the sensor body and cut the purple wire in order to hook the PCM side to the LM-1 #1 output. I'll leave the other end of "B" (to the sensor element) capped off and see what the LM-1 can do with it all. Does that sound good to anyone? Thanks.

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

I also want to install my wideband in place of stock O2, please tell me how do I feed 0-1V simulated output to PCM? Just 1 signal wire (0-1V), or do I need ground wire also from wideband to PCM?

01Z28M6

Well it took me over 2 years to get back here but here's the answer that worked for me. I doubt this will be of use to you Vetal but I want to complete this thread before I die.

On the Fbody 4 wire sensor you need to remove the stock O2 sensor and obviously replace it with the wide band. You then plug the supplied kit wiring connector to the new sensor. This cable connects to the new sensor on one end and connects to the controller through the multi pin DIN plug at the other. Now the 3 wire mini stereo jack that connects to the LM-1 controller's #1 output will need to be connected to the wiring loom that was connected to the narrow band sensor.

Okay, here's the wire-up from the #1 analog output to the PCM O2 sensor harness:

From the stereo jack run a wire from the LM-1 red (LC-1 yellow) lead to the PURPLE wire and the bare copper (LC-1 green) lead to the TAN sensor wire. This is all you need with the vintage fbody hook-up. The sensor heater connection is not used and will not create a fault code when disconnected. The LM/C-1 ground wire does not need to be used unless you start adding other 0-5 volt connections for other applications. As for adding a gauge, that's where the #2 analog output is used as it is pre-configured for the Dyno Tune display (gauge). Both analog outputs can be configured with in the 0 - 5 volt range so this information should be considered conditional because the output configurations are actually dynamic when a user chooses to change them.

I do not have access to the LC-1 so the yellow and green wire connections in lieu of the red and copper wires should be verified before use. I am using the LC-1 manual as a reference when describing the yellow and green wires but have no method of testing.