delsold

iTrader: (7)

I just installed my cam today, and i just started doing the valve spring swap tonight. I'm using a leakdown tester to hold the valves up. My air compressor doesnt have that great of a regulator on it, and i think that might be part of my problem...but lets hear your opinions

when i apply air into the cylinder, i hear hair in the crankcase. The car has near perfect compression, and never had a cylinder leak issue. once i start using the crane tool to push the spring down, i can hear a big rush of air, so i know im just opening a valve and the air isnt holding them up

what do you guys think?

gillbot

iTrader: (27)

I use the TDC method myself.
http://dayton-fbody.com/DFBAbb/viewt...?p=10858#10858

098z28

iTrader: (12)

i put 120psi to my cylinders, no problems also is it possible that u might be pushing the vale open when you are trying to coompress the spring? i had to 'tap' my retainers with a small socket slightly bigger than the valve stem and locks to free it up

delsold

iTrader: (7)

that is what i was thinking...that the locks might be stuck and just pushing the valve open...but htat still doesnt explain my air noise i hear? Its not coming out of my exhaust or intake, and i dont feel any coming out of the front of the block.

098z28

iTrader: (12)

well i had air leaking all over the place lol since i made my own little conncetion, dont be afraid of some leakage i dont imagin it takes much to hold the valves up, or just use the tdc method i used air on the drivers side but tdc on the passenger side b/c i couldnt fit my connection

delsold

iTrader: (7)

ok ill try that! thanks for the advice....if i have any more issues ill be back on the number one resource for advice on **** you cant figure out yourself...ls1tech!

STALL UP

iTrader: (2)

I would use the top dead center method I sliped and dropped a valve on the last valve on the driver side using 120psi and had to pull the heads. So just be careful using air

sroach20

iTrader: (31)

i used 70 psi like the tool i bought on here said. it held the valves up and it still hissed. havent had any problems with the heads either.

SSsuperdave

iTrader: (4)

I had good luck w air. I used like 100 psi I think and also had to tap the retainer to break 'em loose. I had air leaking by the rings too, and I got over 200 psi compression but it's not a problem, Just leaking down.

delsold

iTrader: (7)

ok thanks guys!...im gonna try a few with air, but ill make sure they cylinder is close to tdc just incase it feels like being a bastard and dropping....because my wallet would kick my *** if i had to pull the heads

098z28

iTrader: (12)

update?

ls1pwrdss

iTrader: (74)

just tap the retainer with a hammer and the use the tool and should work fine for you

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

You can use the TDC method with the compressed air. Once #1 is at TDC you can do 2 cylinder then rotate the crank 90 degrees and do 2 more then repeat. Don't use anything near 120 psi. That's enough to spin the crank if the piston is exactly at TDC especially if the spark plugs are removed. The crane tool is the best. It removes/installs 2 springs at a time. It's a time saver.

White_Ls1

I used 80-90 Psi and it held fine, make sure you have a good o-ring on your leak down tool(hearing air is normal) I also use the TDC method 1 & 6, 8 & 5, 7 & 4 and 3 & 2 using a straw as a feeler. I tied a strap to a breaker bar and had it attached to the crank bolt to keep the piston from pushing down. Good Luck -Dave