LT-1 Rod???
LT-1 Rod??? 
08-12-2007, 02:14 PM
#2
Cranks need to have clearance at the counterweight when using SHORTER rods. Nothing stopping you from going longer, could go 6.125 if you want as I think that is the longest readily available for a 3.48 stroke and still find pistons. You are wrong if you think there is any worthwhile gain in going long as possible in a STREET motor though.
08-12-2007, 02:18 PM
#4
it's staying a street motor while i build the one comeing out of the car... i was looking at going with a 6.0 scat rod and some 30 pistons.. if the 30 over bore makes a 355 what would the 6.0 rod make it than....
08-12-2007, 02:23 PM
#6
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Originally Posted by BsGreenZ
it's staying a street motor while i build the one comeing out of the car... i was looking at going with a 6.0 scat rod and some 30 pistons.. if the 30 over bore makes a 355 what would the 6.0 rod make it than....
..a 355 with lighter pistons and a better rod/stroke ratio.
08-12-2007, 02:24 PM
#7
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Originally Posted by BsGreenZ
it's staying a street motor while i build the one comeing out of the car... i was looking at going with a 6.0 scat rod and some 30 pistons.. if the 30 over bore makes a 355 what would the 6.0 rod make it than....
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08-12-2007, 02:30 PM
#9
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You'll be fine. You can even reuse them in your 383 build if you want. Just change the crank and pistons. The longer rods make a lil more HP versus a shorter one.
08-12-2007, 02:46 PM
#12
I think the supposed benifits of longer rods are GROSSLY overstated.
It will result in a little lighter piston which is easier on the rods and rodbolts but to claim it is worthwhile from a HP perspective on a street motor is an overstatement.
If buying parts anyway hell yeah go for the 6.0" but don't convince yourself that it was a big part of the project or results.
I also can not believe how many people thing rod length impacts displacement, I have run into that a lot and find it scary those folks are turning wrenches. Please make an effort to understand what you are doing.
It will result in a little lighter piston which is easier on the rods and rodbolts but to claim it is worthwhile from a HP perspective on a street motor is an overstatement.
If buying parts anyway hell yeah go for the 6.0" but don't convince yourself that it was a big part of the project or results.
I also can not believe how many people thing rod length impacts displacement, I have run into that a lot and find it scary those folks are turning wrenches. Please make an effort to understand what you are doing.
08-12-2007, 04:41 PM
#13
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I dont like the longer rods it moves the pin to far up, the oil rings are right on top the pins theres no meat there for support the compression rings are also moved up higher. I seen the ring lands break since there so thin. more so on forced induction or nitrous injected cars but non the less theres less meat there.
08-12-2007, 11:47 PM
#15
i talked to my engine builder today and and we decided to use the 5.7 rods... i dont really want to take any chances since i need this motor to last a year or two so i can build the hell out of the motor i'm pulling out.. thanks guys...
