What can make a car accelerate on its own?
08-13-2007, 01:51 AM
#1
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What can make a car accelerate on its own? What can make a car accelerate on its own? My car has been having this problem, and it is very annoying as well as dangerous. My little brother drives my car quite a bit and I'm scared to let him drive it now.
My car is currently at the dealership but I doubt they have a clue what is wrong. They first said it was my MAF, so they put a new one on and that didn't fix it. Then they said it was my computer, so they installed a new one, once again no fix.
My car has had this problem pretty much ever since I bought it. This problem ONLY happens during the summer months when its extremely hot, never any other time.
Anyone have any ideas?
My car is currently at the dealership but I doubt they have a clue what is wrong. They first said it was my MAF, so they put a new one on and that didn't fix it. Then they said it was my computer, so they installed a new one, once again no fix.
My car has had this problem pretty much ever since I bought it. This problem ONLY happens during the summer months when its extremely hot, never any other time.
Anyone have any ideas?
08-13-2007, 02:01 AM
#2
Your dealership is full of people who have no idea what is wrong. Tell them to log your IAC count while it is doing this. Any miscalibration in the MAF would cause less power. A faulty hardware or software and the car would have numerous problems under the small chance it would run. This is a tuning issue.
08-13-2007, 05:00 AM
#3
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If it was your MAF you would have SES lights/codes thrown. Does the throttle hang open? .....vacum leak???....did you have an SES light on???
Peace,
Craig.
P.S. - I would never let a dealership work on my cars. Thats like Ray Charles doing brain surgery.
08-13-2007, 11:43 AM
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Staging Lane
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Well my check engine light it on constantly (they claim I have a lifter not working right), so I wouldn't know if I had a new problem or not.
Ok, so I just got my car back, they claim it was something about an Idle Relearn Position or something?
It seems to be working now, but I guess I will find out later. If it starts again I will post again and let you guys know. Thanks for your help.
And I wish I had somewhere else to take my car to get it worked on, but I live in a small town and its my only option when it's something outside of my abilities. I often get the feeling I know more about cars than they do when we are talking, which is pretty sad considering my limited knowledge of automobiles!
Ok, so I just got my car back, they claim it was something about an Idle Relearn Position or something?
It seems to be working now, but I guess I will find out later. If it starts again I will post again and let you guys know. Thanks for your help.
And I wish I had somewhere else to take my car to get it worked on, but I live in a small town and its my only option when it's something outside of my abilities. I often get the feeling I know more about cars than they do when we are talking, which is pretty sad considering my limited knowledge of automobiles!
08-13-2007, 01:49 PM
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When I ported my TB i drilled the hole in the blade to big. When I would put the cluch in and roll to a stop with out my foot on the gas, my rpms would slowly rise. If I left the clutch it the car would speed up.
Moral of the story...have you replaced your TB?
Moral of the story...have you replaced your TB?
08-13-2007, 02:35 PM
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There is an airflow adder table that swings a lot of
"desired airflow" to comp the A/C drag and it goes
big with increasing IAT and increasing A/C head
pressure. If you are already getting excess air (like
a vacuum leak, a drilled TB hole, etc.) you can get
a strong "cruise control effect" when the A/C is on.
Especially if IAT is being jacked by heat soak and
not really relating to the condenser temperature
like it's being used for, here.
I would be looking at the IAC counts as an indication
of any excess air to begin with (IAC=0 says you have
a big *** leak) and you would perhaps benefit in several
ways from (a) cold air in and (b) IAT seeing it rather
than underhood temps, this can be made a problem by
aftermarket lids that relocate it out of the air stream
making it more driven by surrounding than intake air.
"desired airflow" to comp the A/C drag and it goes
big with increasing IAT and increasing A/C head
pressure. If you are already getting excess air (like
a vacuum leak, a drilled TB hole, etc.) you can get
a strong "cruise control effect" when the A/C is on.
Especially if IAT is being jacked by heat soak and
not really relating to the condenser temperature
like it's being used for, here.
I would be looking at the IAC counts as an indication
of any excess air to begin with (IAC=0 says you have
a big *** leak) and you would perhaps benefit in several
ways from (a) cold air in and (b) IAT seeing it rather
than underhood temps, this can be made a problem by
aftermarket lids that relocate it out of the air stream
making it more driven by surrounding than intake air.
08-13-2007, 04:09 PM
#7
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Originally Posted by PopaPork
When I ported my TB i drilled the hole in the blade to big. When I would put the cluch in and roll to a stop with out my foot on the gas, my rpms would slowly rise. If I left the clutch it the car would speed up.
Moral of the story...have you replaced your TB?
Moral of the story...have you replaced your TB?
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08-13-2007, 04:12 PM
#8
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Originally Posted by 2002_Z28_Six_Speed
Your dealership is full of people who have no idea what is wrong. Tell them to log your IAC count while it is doing this. Any miscalibration in the MAF would cause less power. A faulty hardware or software and the car would have numerous problems under the small chance it would run. This is a tuning issue.
So looks like I should have just asked here first and probably would have saved myself a lot of time and money!
08-13-2007, 04:16 PM
#9
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Originally Posted by jimmyblue
There is an airflow adder table that swings a lot of
"desired airflow" to comp the A/C drag and it goes
big with increasing IAT and increasing A/C head
pressure. If you are already getting excess air (like
a vacuum leak, a drilled TB hole, etc.) you can get
a strong "cruise control effect" when the A/C is on.
Especially if IAT is being jacked by heat soak and
not really relating to the condenser temperature
like it's being used for, here.
I would be looking at the IAC counts as an indication
of any excess air to begin with (IAC=0 says you have
a big *** leak) and you would perhaps benefit in several
ways from (a) cold air in and (b) IAT seeing it rather
than underhood temps, this can be made a problem by
aftermarket lids that relocate it out of the air stream
making it more driven by surrounding than intake air.
"desired airflow" to comp the A/C drag and it goes
big with increasing IAT and increasing A/C head
pressure. If you are already getting excess air (like
a vacuum leak, a drilled TB hole, etc.) you can get
a strong "cruise control effect" when the A/C is on.
Especially if IAT is being jacked by heat soak and
not really relating to the condenser temperature
like it's being used for, here.
I would be looking at the IAC counts as an indication
of any excess air to begin with (IAC=0 says you have
a big *** leak) and you would perhaps benefit in several
ways from (a) cold air in and (b) IAT seeing it rather
than underhood temps, this can be made a problem by
aftermarket lids that relocate it out of the air stream
making it more driven by surrounding than intake air.
and I guess I lied, i do have one other mod, I have this God-Awful piece of crap SLP lid that doesn't really fit at all. I guess I should get a good lid that actually fits?
Any suggestions for a good Lid? That one by G2 looks pretty sweet, how is their fit and quality?
Last edited by Camaro Z28 Dude; 08-13-2007 at 04:26 PM.
08-13-2007, 11:25 PM
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Anyone else know of a job where you can keep charging money without fixing a problem? I hate dealers and how they say "yup, that's your problem" but it never fixes it and they don't give you a refund.
BTW, my g/f had this problem on her hyundai. It turned out to be her TPS... I'm fairly new to the F-Body so I have no idea if that would be the case here or not.
BTW, my g/f had this problem on her hyundai. It turned out to be her TPS... I'm fairly new to the F-Body so I have no idea if that would be the case here or not.
08-14-2007, 01:10 AM
#13
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Originally Posted by 3.4camaro
They'll give you a refund if you bitch enough.
I got a BJ once, just for bitching.
I got a BJ once, just for bitching.
08-14-2007, 01:39 AM
#14
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Originally Posted by Camaro Z28 Dude
Well my check engine light it on constantly...
Hope you get it worked out, post up if you find what it was.
Peace,
Craig.
08-15-2007, 09:38 AM
#17
Originally Posted by Camaro Z28 Dude
So guess what, I hop in my car to go grab some lunch and surely enough old Cami revs up to 3000 rpm all by herself. So I drove back to the dealer and they looked at it and now they say it is my IAC.
So looks like I should have just asked here first and probably would have saved myself a lot of time and money!
So looks like I should have just asked here first and probably would have saved myself a lot of time and money!
When I first got my car the ABS, ARS, Airbags, and a bunch of other stuff didn't work because the guy before me played snippy snippy with the wiring harness.
So, I took it to the dealer because you think they could fix it right? My car was over there for ~2 months and they didnt fix one problem. I finally bitched them out and they just handed me a list of trouble codes and told me to get the car the hell out of there.
Since then I have fixed all that BS. You figure with all the tools they had....
Alot of my problems were fixed by a multimeter, wiring diagrams, and a six pack.
The Service Manager actually told me she didn't think the airbags would ever work again. I guess she didn't read her own diagnostic manuals!
