Kooks race headers install!!
#1
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Kooks race headers install!!
I actually purchased the headers for Thunder Racing a few months ago along with the Kooks ORY. I was set on saving up and having a reputable performance shop in my area do the install because I don’t have to tools or am I capable of getting the car up high enough. Long story short I now have access to a lift and a shop full of tools for the price of $50.
Does anyone have any tips or advice to offer? I have done a lot of research using this site, this is my first header install on an LS1 and I want to make sure it goes well!! I'm using this Write-Up Does anyone have a better write-up? Any help at all would be great and very much appreciated. Also I've listed all of the parts that I have purchased am I missing any thing???
Kooks headers and Y pipe
(2) gm exhausts manifold gaskets
(2) o2 extensions
(3) band clamps(came with ORY)
Stage 8 locking header bolts
Tr55 spark plugs
msd wires
Anti-seize
Thanks Again
Does anyone have any tips or advice to offer? I have done a lot of research using this site, this is my first header install on an LS1 and I want to make sure it goes well!! I'm using this Write-Up Does anyone have a better write-up? Any help at all would be great and very much appreciated. Also I've listed all of the parts that I have purchased am I missing any thing???
Kooks headers and Y pipe
(2) gm exhausts manifold gaskets
(2) o2 extensions
(3) band clamps(came with ORY)
Stage 8 locking header bolts
Tr55 spark plugs
msd wires
Anti-seize
Thanks Again
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I'd skip on the stage 8 header bolts, just re-use your stock bolts. Freeze plug will work just fine, be sure you have the block off plates for the AIR and EGR provisions. Good luck.
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Originally Posted by Krab
I'd skip on the stage 8 header bolts, just re-use your stock bolts. Freeze plug will work just fine, be sure you have the block off plates for the AIR and EGR provisions. Good luck.
#6
i would definatly not use the stock bolts, at least that is the case on my 73 camaro everytime i put a new header gasket on i always use new bolts, those bolts are subject to a lot of heat and fatigue very fast, just my 2 cents.
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Originally Posted by Numba1Stunna
Kooks headers and Y pipe
(2) gm exhausts manifold gaskets
(2) o2 extensions (24")
(3) band clamps(came with ORY)
Stage 8 locking header bolts
Tr55 spark plugs
no msd wires (don't need 'em - save your $$$)
Anti-seize
Can of PB Blaster
An extra set of hands
Lots of patience
(2) gm exhausts manifold gaskets
(2) o2 extensions (24")
(3) band clamps(came with ORY)
Stage 8 locking header bolts
Tr55 spark plugs
no msd wires (don't need 'em - save your $$$)
Anti-seize
Can of PB Blaster
An extra set of hands
Lots of patience
#9
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You'll want to use a 10MM gear wrench on that back passenger side manifold bolt. You may have to remove the oil filter and drain plug on the driver side, so have oil and filter on hand. I used the GM part on my LS1 intake, looks OE. I had local shop turn my AIR/EGR stuff off and simulate the rear o2's with HP Tuners before I even started on the headers.
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took me 8hrs today and i only have the headers in, the stage 8 locking bolts really fucked me, lol tommorro im gonna switch them. which bolts are better the stock ones or the ones that come with the kooks headers?????? the stage 8 bolts feel like they are gonna snap but the header is still kinda loose. i am also having trouble with the y pipe. do you put it in as one piece? thet wont slide into the header all the way??
on a good note the headers went in no prab at all slip right in
on a good note the headers went in no prab at all slip right in
#15
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Originally Posted by Numba1Stunna
took me 8hrs today and i only have the headers in, the stage 8 locking bolts really fucked me, lol tommorro im gonna switch them. which bolts are better the stock ones or the ones that come with the kooks headers?????? the stage 8 bolts feel like they are gonna snap but the header is still kinda loose. i am also having trouble with the y pipe. do you put it in as one piece? thet wont slide into the header all the way??
on a good note the headers went in no prab at all slip right in
on a good note the headers went in no prab at all slip right in
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Just use the stock bolts. they don't have to be insanely strong they are only torqued to 12 ft lbs. I have 80K on my car and reused the stock bolts on my car with my Kooks 1 7/8 race headers. My buddy has been using his 100K stock bolts on his no problem for a year now. If I did anything aftermarket I'd stud the headers simply because it won't wear the threads in the heads when you take the headers off. On my car I also used an old bolt that I cut slits into length wise as a thread chaser to clean the threads and blew the threads out as best I could but doing that I still had the drivers side rear most bolt go in pretty hard.
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used the bolts that came with the kooks worked like a charm!!! got the y-pipe to fit great up in first if i accel hard it hits the floor board. I actually got better clearence with the Kooks y!!