Are lightweight driveshafts for real?
#1
Are lightweight driveshafts for real?
Have read that lightweight driveshafts can be a big gain for RWHP because of lesser rotational mass and vibration. Is this true? Are there any made for an A4 trans? GM performance does have them for M6 but haven't seen any for auto.
#2
Tech Resident
Sure, it's true. You'll definitely pick up a few horsepower to the rear wheels.
I swapped out my stock steel driveshaft for a HD aluminum one. Forged yoke, all that crap. I can tell you it was about half the weight as the stock steel driveshaft my car came with. I can also tell you I didn't feel a bit of difference from it. But hey, who can REALLY feel ~5-10 horsepower?
Yea, you'll pick up some horsepower, but it's barely noticeable. You're not actually gaining power, you're just increasing the driveline's efficiency so maybe it's harder to actually feel the power...I don't know.
It's a worthwhile mod getting an HD driveshaft simply because it's stronger. The added power is gravy, IMO. I bought the driveshaft because I got it from a guy for $200 with under 500 miles on it...and Summit sells that same driveshaft for $400. I couldn't say no.
BTW, the M6 and A4 use the same driveshaft. They're interchangeable
I swapped out my stock steel driveshaft for a HD aluminum one. Forged yoke, all that crap. I can tell you it was about half the weight as the stock steel driveshaft my car came with. I can also tell you I didn't feel a bit of difference from it. But hey, who can REALLY feel ~5-10 horsepower?
Yea, you'll pick up some horsepower, but it's barely noticeable. You're not actually gaining power, you're just increasing the driveline's efficiency so maybe it's harder to actually feel the power...I don't know.
It's a worthwhile mod getting an HD driveshaft simply because it's stronger. The added power is gravy, IMO. I bought the driveshaft because I got it from a guy for $200 with under 500 miles on it...and Summit sells that same driveshaft for $400. I couldn't say no.
BTW, the M6 and A4 use the same driveshaft. They're interchangeable
#3
"The driveshaft shop" down the Carolinas.
I bought an aluminum one that is one piece rated to 8000rpm and 600hp.
Billet U Joints too.
The real nice thing is that it uses an adapter plate for the rear end. Some require you to pull apart the rear end and swap a part. This is literally, a "bolt and go" set up.
I've had it on for almost a year now and although the car doesn't get driven much, I have never had an issue.
As for driving. You will notice the difference in your butt immediately. Vibrations are missing and the car picks up quicker at any speed.
It's a 30 minute job well worth doing in my book. especially if you are going to start adding "go fast" parts to the engine. The stock OEM driveshaft has a reputation for breaking if you are hooking up well and putting over 400 to the rear wheels.
That's what I've read on posts anyways.
Hope this helped.
I bought an aluminum one that is one piece rated to 8000rpm and 600hp.
Billet U Joints too.
The real nice thing is that it uses an adapter plate for the rear end. Some require you to pull apart the rear end and swap a part. This is literally, a "bolt and go" set up.
I've had it on for almost a year now and although the car doesn't get driven much, I have never had an issue.
As for driving. You will notice the difference in your butt immediately. Vibrations are missing and the car picks up quicker at any speed.
It's a 30 minute job well worth doing in my book. especially if you are going to start adding "go fast" parts to the engine. The stock OEM driveshaft has a reputation for breaking if you are hooking up well and putting over 400 to the rear wheels.
That's what I've read on posts anyways.
Hope this helped.
#4
Internet Mechanic
iTrader: (17)
In theroy anything you can lighten from the engine internals down to the rear diff (and rear wheels) can gain. Most time it has to do with how quick the engine can rev as it s about hp increases.
But what you sacrifice is reliability, stock LS1 alum. DS are great for the most part, until you put a sticky tire on it and make into a custom 2 peice unit.
If you want light weight and relibility there are great carbon fiber units, or a HD alum. from aftermarket companies line PST or Dennys.
I choose to go with a 3" steel unit, is it heavier, absolutely, will I break, hell no.
But what you sacrifice is reliability, stock LS1 alum. DS are great for the most part, until you put a sticky tire on it and make into a custom 2 peice unit.
If you want light weight and relibility there are great carbon fiber units, or a HD alum. from aftermarket companies line PST or Dennys.
I choose to go with a 3" steel unit, is it heavier, absolutely, will I break, hell no.
#6
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I know its already been answered, but I wanna put in my two cents...
Its like those old school grinding wheels... the HUGE wheel, takes forever to get it spinning? That is powerloss, you gotta maintain that big ******. Same concept.
Its like those old school grinding wheels... the HUGE wheel, takes forever to get it spinning? That is powerloss, you gotta maintain that big ******. Same concept.
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#8
Tech Resident
All A4's with 3.23's and ALL M6's came stock with an aluminum driveshaft. It's not a very strong one, though. The stock aluminum DS is a soda can It's known to split right in half with M6's...but the T-56 breaks everything, even 12-bolts.