windsma

iTrader: (3)

The LT1 From a 95 Caprice w/ castiron heads long block 70K miles * cost 500.oo bucks, plug and play It is a 5.7L, not the 4.3L Here she is in all her glory:


And the Lt1 from my 93 Camaro z28 w/ alum. heads. 130k miles



LT1's around here are impossible to find so,
Im getting the Caprice engine. I need to know which parts are better and should be switched to make 1 bad *** LT1. 93 lt1 to the 95
All parts are in good working order, i really just needed a block to rebuild mine.

I have a NIB Comp Cam that i also wanted to use, w/ required upgrades springs, RR's, valve job.
Here is the cam info.
Part Number 07-502-8
Engine 1993-1996 Chevrolet
350ci,
LT1 & LT4,
8cyl.
Grind Number LT1 XR269HR-12

ive posted this on other forums but i am still not sure engine 93-96???? the 95 has a different opti. and i dont know if it will work.

i had budgeted $1k for the engine alone and im getting it for $500 so i still have $500+ to play with also.

What would you DO?

Thanks,
matthew

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

The opti on the b-body motor is a better design(vented, f-body got the same in 95 b-bodies got in in 94), I would use that timing cover and opti, going to need the f-body hub though.


The 95 block should have powdered metal rods in it and the 93 will have "pink" rods, 1970s forged stuff that were the best OEM rods till the PM rods came out in 94.

As cast the iron heads flow more than your 93 heafds, BUT your 93 aluminums are the most desirable for porting.

I would consider putting it together with the iron heads and putting the aluminums on a shelf till you can afford good porting.

The iron heads will likely require a little work to use your springs and be safe with the 1.6 rockers you likely have so it is up to you wether you want to put any effort into them to save the aluminums off the car for later porting without downtime.

If you use 1.5 rockers the studs and guides of the irons will be OK, if you go 1.6 then you start to run into potential issues.

AR15 guy

iTrader: (1)

Do the iron heads flow better than all the f-body heads?

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

Yea, except the rare few that came with LT4s

AR15 guy

iTrader: (1)

That makes no sense at all. Do the iron headed motors make more power? Or did they have a weaker cam? I am pissed now lol.

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

They make less power and have a much smaller cam. Its just they have better head design.

Ari G

iTrader: (25)

You can take more metal out of the iron heads but they aren´t as good as aluminum for detonation

The front accessory system is diffrent from the Ca/Ta

C_Rules

iTrader: (7)

would shorties designed for an Fbody w/aluminum heads fit the iron heads of the Bbody LT1? I have a guy who would be interested in my old shorties but he has a caprice. i don't want to sell them to him if they wont fit his heads or in the Bbody engine compartment. Anybody know?

windsma

iTrader: (3)

thanks guys keep the info flowing

I dont have the RR's or valve springs yet just the cam.

Some one mentioned on another forum that the water jackets may be different.???
Lt1's are new to me so i want to know what is interchangeable like the old Small block chevys.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Most f-body guys will blow the differences way out of proportion.

The thin casting 96-7 aluminum heads equal the iron's flow BUT are less desirable for porting.

The iron heads have a larger chamber and thinner head gasket but it still resuklts in 10.0 compression as compared to 10.4 for the aluminum head LT1s.

They also came tuned for 87 octane and grandpa quiet intake and exhaust, there are your MINOR differences in power every bit as much as the cam.

Boltons and good tuning and the b-body vs. f-body motor becomes a wash though some who have had both in the same car say lowend the b-body still has more torque, below where a dyno pull would be done.
I honestly wonder if the b-body cam was done right and the f-body one compromised towend torque a little to save the glass 7.5" axle.

The accessory system is different but all the same boltholes are there so no problem.
Manifold/header boltholes all the same.
f-body headers will certainly bolt too a b-body motor BUT chassis clearance will be an unknown till you try it.
Water jackets are the same at least as it relates to the block and "steam tube", may be some internal difference that is of no meaning fitment wise.

windsma

iTrader: (3)

Thanks that helps alot.
Ill pm you my email address if you dont mind. im sure i will have alot of questions about the
b-body LT1

Scrapin'4.8

iTrader: (3)

I've ran both heads on my car (95 caprice). Same set of RR went on both heads with no problems, both had aftermarket springs. Only thing i've heard about the cast iron heads with the press in rocker arm studs is that they may "pull out" at high rpm. I've spun mine up to 7000 so far and all is well, but i could definetly see how it could happen. As far as the exhaust manifolds/headers, i believe the port shape is different, but they will bolt up, but as Mr. Jennings has already said, won't know if there's any clearance issues til u try it. I say try it anyway, that way if it works the bbody guys will have one more choice of a shorty.

Dragframe

iTrader: (14)

I think they both a D shaped ports...

but i would almost never bother with a shorty... for the work im going to go the extra mile and at least do mids if not long tubes... but that is off topic...

Fitment in the b body would be the only issue... heads are basicly the same