Ram Air
#3
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i'm assuming you have a 98-02 fbody in saying this, but you'd be throwing money away. just buy a lid, save some money, and buy headers and a dyno tune. ram air is a myth and wont increase power output untill you've reached a high rate of speed (well over 100mph).
#4
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vague
A little vague there aren't ya? You have a type 2 hood? What car do you drive? Like the previous poster posted, ram air is like a guy telling you if u give him $50,000 now, he will give you $75,000 in 100 years. Now in 100 years, you will get the $75,000, but you will most likely also be dead so no use for the money. Ram air works, but only at speeds of well over 130+ which you usually won't be going on a daily basis unless you plan on making an appearance in NASCAR several times a month? Clear as mud?
#5
Assuming a "type 2 hood" is a WS6 hood, and the WS6 airbox is behind it, 'Ram air' becomes effective at about 50mph (see chart), but needs improvement from the factory's setup to get the best gain. The 'ram air' effect helps in higher speeds, but what you're looking for is the cold air that comes from outside the engine bay, even at idle. Tune out the haters, seal the gap between the airbox and the hood and debaffle. My IATs have never climbed above 91, my ETs consistently dropped .1 to .2, and my nostrils will hold a piece of paper to them since I sealed my airbox to my hood. Kits like the BGRA have proven this time and time again on the dragstrip with gains from .1 to .3 in the quarter.
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#9
It was posted on here in a thread about testing the WS6 versus FRA. Regardless, track times speak for themselves with kits like the BGRA. Hell, even homemade seals drop .1 to .2 in the quarter. On top of the pressure increases, the important thing is the lower IATs. My IATs dropped to less than 91 even in heavy traffic after I sealed up and debaffled, from over 130.
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The other problem I think is that how can you have a true ram-air with out the nostrils somewhat sealed to the intake. Pretty sure you would get a lot of just blow-by air and would be alot more effective, but there are alot "more better" things to buy if your looking to go faster. I agree with getting the lid, it will do more everywhere in the powerband and not just at 100mph+.
#15
For those not handy enough to create their own, kits like the Fast Toys JAAM are great. Even at $195, the gains are cost effective.
Here's Fast Toys pressure comparison chart. The chart shows that the WS6 hood, in stock form, becomes effective at 80mph, while debaffling drops the effective speed to 60mph, and sealing reduces it to 40mph.
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man those charts suck, they need to switch the x and y axis around so it almost makes sense, i wonder why fast toys wouldn't have included there original ram air kit to compare to the "jaam." also does that chart supposedly represent psi?
Last edited by its turbo time; 11-05-2007 at 01:11 PM.
#18
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The baffles just behind the stock airbox. Lowering IAT is definitely important, there's power to be had with cooler temps but think that you'd have to have bolt ons to really make it noticeable. Sorry, I'm not trying to bash anyone or trying to start an arguement Just my .02
#19
The chart is measured using the traditional standard to check pressure:
"inch of water column (in WC)
a traditional unit of pressure, used in plumbing to describe both water and gas pressures. The conventional equivalent of one inch of water is 249.0889 pascals, which is 2.490 889 millibars, about 0.036 127 pounds per square inch (psi) or about 0.073 556 inches (1.868 32 millimeters) of mercury. "
#20
Typical ET gains are .1-.2 in the quarter on a stock car with homemade kits, kits like these and the BGRA. Gains of .3 have been achieved on modded cars. Lots of bolt ons and mods make the gains higher, but these gains are excellent on stock cars too.