Wolfe 6pt Roll Bar
11-15-2007, 10:48 AM
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Wolfe 6pt Roll Bar I just ordered a Standard CM 6pt roll bar (weld in)
Can anyone here that has installed these tell me if you had to pull the head liner out to weld this in & paint. I am pulling all the carpet, console, & plastic.
Any tips for cutting holes in rear plastic over fenders so it is perfectly aligned with the bars?
Can anyone here that has installed these tell me if you had to pull the head liner out to weld this in & paint. I am pulling all the carpet, console, & plastic.
Any tips for cutting holes in rear plastic over fenders so it is perfectly aligned with the bars?
11-15-2007, 11:24 AM
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It's easier if you pull it out, but you can get around it if you use plastic when you paint and a thin sheet of metal and piece of damp card board stacked together covering where you're welding above to deflect the sparks.
As far as getting the hole where it needs to be there are a few ways.
But this is how I would do it.
remove the speaker grill and when you are ready to mount the rear bar tack it in with a small tack top and bottom, have the rear plastic on without the speaker grill, have the bar mounted where it will go, take a piece of card board and cut a slit 1/2 way down the middle, then cut a hole that will fit tight around the bar, then you make marks on the card board and marks on the plastic where you can line it up, once you have your pattern remove the card board and bar and replace the speaker grill, then use your card board template, align the marks and then trace the hole and use a dremel to cut out the hole then you're good to go.
As far as getting the hole where it needs to be there are a few ways.
But this is how I would do it.
remove the speaker grill and when you are ready to mount the rear bar tack it in with a small tack top and bottom, have the rear plastic on without the speaker grill, have the bar mounted where it will go, take a piece of card board and cut a slit 1/2 way down the middle, then cut a hole that will fit tight around the bar, then you make marks on the card board and marks on the plastic where you can line it up, once you have your pattern remove the card board and bar and replace the speaker grill, then use your card board template, align the marks and then trace the hole and use a dremel to cut out the hole then you're good to go.
11-15-2007, 09:53 PM
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It's easier if you pull it out, but you can get around it if you use plastic when you paint and a thin sheet of metal and piece of damp card board stacked together covering where you're welding above to deflect the sparks.
As far as getting the hole where it needs to be there are a few ways.
But this is how I would do it.
remove the speaker grill and when you are ready to mount the rear bar tack it in with a small tack top and bottom, have the rear plastic on without the speaker grill, have the bar mounted where it will go, take a piece of card board and cut a slit 1/2 way down the middle, then cut a hole that will fit tight around the bar, then you make marks on the card board and marks on the plastic where you can line it up, once you have your pattern remove the card board and bar and replace the speaker grill, then use your card board template, align the marks and then trace the hole and use a dremel to cut out the hole then you're good to go.
As far as getting the hole where it needs to be there are a few ways.
But this is how I would do it.
remove the speaker grill and when you are ready to mount the rear bar tack it in with a small tack top and bottom, have the rear plastic on without the speaker grill, have the bar mounted where it will go, take a piece of card board and cut a slit 1/2 way down the middle, then cut a hole that will fit tight around the bar, then you make marks on the card board and marks on the plastic where you can line it up, once you have your pattern remove the card board and bar and replace the speaker grill, then use your card board template, align the marks and then trace the hole and use a dremel to cut out the hole then you're good to go.
So the rear bars go through the speaker grill. Sounds like it won't be too bad to line up.
11-15-2007, 09:57 PM
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Pulling the head liner is easy, personally I'd take it out just to be safe you don't f it up, just take your time and there is a few photos on wolferacecraft.com web site of that cage with bars through the speaker grill so take some time and study them and you'll be good.
I steal ideas off sites all the time them try to do some thing different or better, I'll have the fastest looking stock motor car on LS1tech.com before the year is out =)
I steal ideas off sites all the time them try to do some thing different or better, I'll have the fastest looking stock motor car on LS1tech.com before the year is out =)
11-15-2007, 10:26 PM
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I got them in position, tacked them, then leaned the bar forward(T-top car) then welded the top bars, then lean it back in position. I went to the wheel wells also so the rear deck was clear or the bars. But for NHRA, they have to be to the frame rails to pass inspection. But my tracks did not sweet it!
I'll put pics up in a sec.
I'll put pics up in a sec.
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11-16-2007, 11:10 PM
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11-17-2007, 01:02 AM
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The plate, I migged in and I had a friend come over with a portable tig and weld the bars up and to the plates. I put a few mig tack welds here and there to hold it were I wanted it.
The fitment of the WOLF bars were dead on. But the rear bars needed a little trimming to get the angle tight were it met the plates to the wheel wells. And I would buy one jig notched for that reason.
The seat, I had a local interior guy cut them and stitch in a sleeve for the belts. The crotch strap comes right up through the center also. It fits real tight. Cost me $150 to have it done.
The fitment of the WOLF bars were dead on. But the rear bars needed a little trimming to get the angle tight were it met the plates to the wheel wells. And I would buy one jig notched for that reason.
The seat, I had a local interior guy cut them and stitch in a sleeve for the belts. The crotch strap comes right up through the center also. It fits real tight. Cost me $150 to have it done.
