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VATS. sys. still acting up even after bypass

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Old 11-27-2007, 12:30 PM
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Default VATS. sys. still acting up even after bypass

I've bypassed my VATS SYS. about a year ago without any problems.

now all of a sudden my VATS. sys.is still acting up even after bypass.

the only differnce between now and a year ago is the security light blicks mostly when key is on position then goe's off when key is in off position compared to staying on a year ago.

My main ? is will a weak battery cause my problem w/ VATS?

I have a AC delco about 2.5 years old I mearsured the voltage w/ car off 12.8Volts.

when I try to start the car the battery charge needle on dash reads real low stays in the organe area.

Thanks for any expert advice
Old 11-27-2007, 01:03 PM
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I think there is a way to totally disable the VATS system.
Old 11-27-2007, 01:12 PM
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Default Vats

I think I have allready completely bypassed the VATS.

the organe wires coming from the ignition cylinder have been disconnected from VATS. and I inserted the exact amout of resistance from key into these wires.

My main ? is will a weak battery cause my problem w/ VATS?

I have a AC delco about 2.5 years old I mearsured the voltage w/ car off 12.8Volts.
Old 11-27-2007, 01:44 PM
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I've been through low voltage on batteries before and it never affected my VATS, even with it enabled. 12.8 with the car off is plenty of voltage. I'd check the resistor connections - did you stick them in the connector or solder them to the wires? If you know someone with tuning software they can permanently disable it.
Old 11-27-2007, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 2001NBMZ28
If you know someone with tuning software they can permanently disable it.
No, they can't. Yes, the PCM can be programmed to ignore the BCM's fuel enable signal. But that's only half of the VATS engine disabling capability. VATS is contained in the BCM (rather than the PCM) - which is not programmable. The VATS/BCM has direct control of the starter relay without going through the PCM so that can't be disabled through programming.
Old 11-27-2007, 02:50 PM
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Default Vats

I believe I just stuck the resistors into the ends of the organe juntions.

I did have a problem finding the exact amount of resistance in one resistor I ended up using 6 resistors in series for the desired amount

I twisted these 6 resistors together they are not soildered.

. I will check the connections but am not thinking this to being my problem.

so even bypassing the VATS w/ resistors it's still actaully enabled?

A Buddy of mine works at a dealership and has a Tech2 tester.
I remember him resetting the key in order for the bypass to work maybe he can reset the VATS again after proving the electrical connections are fine.

the man that tuned the car vanderbuilt is a 100 miles away and I think he plans on charging me full price this time, first time he did me a big favor twice.

Thanks
Old 11-27-2007, 02:55 PM
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Default fuel pump

Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
No, they can't. Yes, the PCM can be programmed to ignore the BCM's fuel enable signal. But that's only half of the VATS engine disabling capability. VATS is contained in the BCM (rather than the PCM) - which is not programmable. The VATS/BCM has direct control of the starter relay without going through the PCM so that can't be disabled through programming.
SUP white bird I hear the fuel pump on w/ security light lite.

Thanks
Old 11-27-2007, 03:31 PM
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I thought you could do it with HPT? Guess I'm mistaken.
Old 11-27-2007, 03:58 PM
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i had mine removed with my tune. its not bypassed, its deleted.
Old 11-27-2007, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by sroach20
i had mine removed with my tune. its not bypassed, its deleted.
Well, try starting your car with a key that has no resistor pellet. It's my understanding that VATS functions can be programmed out of the PCM but not out of the BCM. Since the BCM is the module that controls the starter relay (and the security light on the dash), the function can't be totally eliminated just by reprogramming the PCM.
Old 11-29-2007, 10:02 AM
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Same EXACT problem with my car. I did the bypass and everything and it would start about 75% of the time. Tuned VATS out of the pcm with hptuners and still had same problem because starter wouldn't turn. HERE IS WHAT YOU CAN TRY......Gears in head start turning and I pull the starter relay under hood and jump the switched connections with a piece of wire and the starter hit. Go stick my key in ignition and turn to on and jump the starter relay again. Bam. She fired right up. Every time.

Ended up running two wires from the starter relay underhood to the cabin and putting a momentary switch on it to act as a start button. Supposedly you can jump the wires from the bcm to restore key function but I have yet to do so. The starter button is too easy man. There is already a grommet behind the pedals. Button was 3 bucks at radioshack.

If your problem is EXACTLY the same as mine you WILL have to have vats disabled in the PCM. I am almost certain the BCM can be bypassed so you don't HAVE to jump the starter relay with a starter button..... But you can see if this will work for you by pulling the relay out of the block and jumping the switched wires with a piece of wire. If your starter hits your golden.

500 for hptuners sounds like alot and it is..... but you can do 3 cars and man o man do I love messing with stuff. Well worth the expense. IF YOUR VATS IS NOT DISABLED I WOULD GET IT.

Are you in ATL now? I live about an hour north is why I'm asking...

Last edited by Lickeyman; 11-29-2007 at 10:31 AM.
Old 11-29-2007, 10:13 AM
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Actually, you don't even need the two wires and the switch. You can just ground the yellow with black wire at the starter relay and the starter will work normally without any problem from the VATS system. The yellow with black wire is the starter relay coil ground wire which goes to the BCM. The BCM decides whether to provide the ground based on the VATS system. Grounding the wire at the relay just eliminates the BCM from the circuit.
Old 11-29-2007, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
Actually, you don't even need the two wires and the switch. You can just ground the yellow with black wire at the starter relay and the starter will work normally without any problem from the VATS system. The yellow with black wire is the starter relay coil ground wire which goes to the BCM. The BCM decides whether to provide the ground based on the VATS system. Grounding the wire at the relay just eliminates the BCM from the circuit.
What he said.

I would try pulling it and jumping it with a piece of wire first just to make sure thats the prob...
Old 11-29-2007, 10:46 PM
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Default PM me

Originally Posted by Lickeyman
What he said.

I would try pulling it and jumping it with a piece of wire first just to make sure thats the prob...
I'm not in ATL. right now will come back in a few days/

PM me you're phone # maybe you can help me w/ some HP tuning

I think maybe I have meet you around ATL.

Thanks
Old 01-10-2008, 08:56 PM
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Default problem still exists w/ vats

the vats has been acting normal for the past few weeks.

But still acts up when ever it feels like it if I were a bank robber I cound'nt reley on this car starting for a getaway car.

Now I'm noticing that if I push the ignition cylinder inward toward colunm it will crank normal so I'm now thinking that the organe wires out the ign. maybe loose & pressing makes a solild connection.

that being said I'm now thinking of cutting these organe wires and installing a push button igntion & just use the key to lock the steering.

Thanks for any possitive feedback
Old 02-05-2008, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
Actually, you don't even need the two wires and the switch. You can just ground the yellow with black wire at the starter relay and the starter will work normally without any problem from the VATS system. The yellow with black wire is the starter relay coil ground wire which goes to the BCM. The BCM decides whether to provide the ground based on the VATS system. Grounding the wire at the relay just eliminates the BCM from the circuit.
Whitebird...wish I would have read your posts before last night. Thought I had fixed the problem last night with HPtuners..but it wouldnt start for me this morning.

Will the security light still come on and off with the VATS set to "none"..mine did just wanted to make sure that was normal
Old 02-05-2008, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by hatdragracer
Whitebird...wish I would have read your posts before last night. Thought I had fixed the problem last night with HPtuners..but it wouldnt start for me this morning.

Will the security light still come on and off with the VATS set to "none"..mine did just wanted to make sure that was normal
The VATS system is controlled by the BCM rather than the PCM so it can't be completely removed by programming (the BCM isn't programmable). Programming just tells the PCM to ignore the signals from the BCM...the security light will still come on and the starter relay won't function. The PCM just controls the fuel supply portion of the security system.

You could manually ground the starter relay as described earlier so that the car will start but that won't get rid of the light. The most effective way to eliminate VATS is to bypass the key sensor by inserting the correct resistor in the circuit (to fool the system into thinking the correct key is in the ignition).
Old 02-05-2008, 02:23 PM
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OK...now I feel a little stupid....where is the starter relay on a 98...my manual only goes up to 95 and I couldn't find next to the glove box
Old 02-05-2008, 02:52 PM
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The starter relay was never next to the glovebox. Prior to 97, there was a theft deterrent relay mounted to the left of the glovebox but that was incorporated into the BCM in the 97 model year. The starter relay is in the electrical junction box #2 under the hood on the left fenderwell.
Old 02-05-2008, 04:27 PM
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Default VATS pissed me off last weekend

last weekend that dam VATS acts up again DAM.

this time was a first, car had been started an turned off serval times.

the security light usally stays on when the VATS acts up (even with it bypassed).

well this time the secuirty light stayed off so I did'nt know what think what I did observe was the battery power was way low down around 8 maybe 9 Volts so I was thinking it cound'nt be the DAM VATS but just a low battery these cars won't start with a weak battery, I waited the usalle time (varys between 3 minutes to 9 minutes) the DAM VATS takes to reset car would not start I thought it was a weak battery waited 30 minutes for a friend to jump me off just before she showed up I tryed the car and it started.

This DAM VATS is pissing me off again then acts normal.

White bird looks like I may have to ground this yellow black wire at the starter relay.

whitebird what do you think about the igntion cylinder organe wires about me being able to press inward on the ign. cylinder and it starts up maybe pressing makes the connection even though the organe wires maybe loose at ign. cylinder?

Thanks for the advice


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