2001 Pewter WS6

iTrader: (43)

I am posting this to possibly help someone else out in the future. I had oil consumption issues all last year. Thinking back on things, it started when I swapped out my valve springs and valve seals. This was in April. I read on here to use a 13mm socket and tap gently to seat the valve seals. So I did. I put the car back together and drove it . It consumed on average a quart of oil is 250 miles and smoked on wot and decel. Something wasn't right. I played with the PCV system, catch cans, and valve cover breathers to no avail. So later in the summer I decided to swap out the valve seals again. I did the same thing as before, 13mm socket and tap gently. Put it all together and it still smoked at wot. Soon after, it started smoking at idle. I thought the rings might have had a sealing issue so I bought a vacuum pump. It still smoked. I tried to do a leak down but was having trouble doing it in the car. I finally decided to send out the motor to see what the problem was. I dropped the motor from the bottom. Once on the ground, I decided to try doing a leak down again just to see if I could determine the bad cylinder. Here was the readings 1-99% 3-99% 5-98% 7-96% 2-99% 4-95% 6-98% 8-94%. I sat back was puzzled because I thought for sure I would have found a bad cylinder. So I proceeded to tear the engine down. Once I removed the valve train, I noticed what looked like a blue stripe on the inner valve spring. These are Patriot Golds and have no blue stripe. Upon further and closer inspection, I noticed that half of my valve seals were unseated and were half way up the valve stems and the other half were barely on. I couldn't believe it, I thought they were all seated properly. I removed a spring, grabbed a 13mm socket and wanted to see how far they were seating by tapping. Well it wasn't very far and there was about 3/8" of the guide showing so tapping wasn't seating enough, you have to hit it firm to get them to seat all of the way. Lesson learned.

I bought all new valve seals and what you need to watch is that the socket can tear up the rubber on the seals. What I did was got an old retainer and flipped it upside down on put it on top of teh seal and put the socket on the retainer. This way you can hit the socket harder and not worry about damaging the seal. The motor is going back in today and should have it fired back up within a week or so. I will post back letting you know the results but I am fairly certain I found the problem.

MadMike

iTrader: (1)

i had the same exact problem,tried all the crap you tried to vent it but all of a sudden i broke something else and now it backfires and makes a horrible knocking noise lol. i replaced my seals and springs not long before this and figured i didn't seat the valve seals properly. For now i pulled the rockers and pushrods and they're fine. springs look ok, my next step is pulling the heads off

massls1guy

iTrader: (9)

The guys that machined my heads gave me a hollow (but thick) plastic dowel shaped like a deep socket to seat my valve seals. I don't know where they got it but it worked great.

silverLSWON

iTrader: (16)

i always used an 11 mm deep socket. they hit more in the center of the seal and helps slide down a little easier

2001 Pewter WS6

iTrader: (43)

That seems kind of small, long as it doesn't damage it or ruin the spring. The main point is to make sure it is seats all the way down to the bottom.

LS1powerhouse02

iTrader: (9)

well damn. I have done mine 3 times now and have the same problems. Guess i am gonna have to do it again. Thanks for the info!

2001 Pewter WS6

iTrader: (43)

I got the Fel-Pro Seals from Advanced Auto Parts. When you redo yours, try seating one of your old ones and see if it seats further down. I took the 13mm socket and hit it pretty good to see how much further it would seat. Good Luck...

BREWS02WS6

iTrader: (6)

Glad to hear this as Im having the same issue, trying the same things. I'll be having the seals replaced soon. Thanks for a good review!

RZRSEDGE

iTrader: (21)

X2 on the deep 11mm.

GMTECH4

Anybody got any updates on the smoking issue? is it fixed?

kenp

iTrader: (9)

Yeah, I have a similar issue. I had a catch can installed that drains the oil back to the engine and I can see that oil is getting to it through the LS6 valley cover.

I guess I'll check my valve guide seals if I get some good weather.

2001 Pewter WS6

iTrader: (43)

I drove it around this past weekend and no smoke so far. Keeping my fingers crossed that it is resolved. Also I added Cats to my exhaust and I let it idle after I took it for the short cruise and no more oil/raw fuel smell.

WhiplashDVD

iTrader: (1)

I have had the same issues with smoking on my new motor. Here is what i have found after 3 sets of seals. the first set was the ones that came with my spring kit from Patriot. i seated them with the 11mm socket but had to literally tap them on. i noticed that i marred a few of the seals and springs. it smoked. Then i tried the fel-pros and had the same issues. My heads are AFR's, so i pm'd Tony Mamo, he stated that he has always used GM seals and has always had good luck. So i bought a set from the stealership. What i noticed the gm's i was able to press on with some force but no tapping required, but still seated very snug. So with the gm seals no smoking anymore. i have had the valve covers off and took a peek multiple times, they are not riding up at all. From now on only gm seals for me.

CamaroSS

iTrader: (2)

I'm going to take my valve cover off and PRAY that I see valve seals sitting high. Otherwise, it's time to re-ring my 4,000 mile motor.

2001 Pewter WS6

iTrader: (43)

They don't even have to be riding up the valve stems. If they aren't seated all the way it will smoke. Also I have had my car out a couple times and no smoking at all. Such a relief..