Anyone get good prices on LS1 parts? (Clutch, Slave & Master Cylinder)
01-30-2008, 01:24 PM
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Anyone get good prices on LS1 parts? (Clutch, Slave & Master Cylinder) I am needing to get some parts, whether they be from autozone or gm, need them to be new and at a good price. I need a Clutch, Slave & Master Cylinder, this is all clutch related stuff. I dont know if Im going to use them yet, just need them in case, because im going to have someone pin point my problem with the car not going in gear, I know its not the trans and I just bench bled the master then bled the slave and it still wont go into gear. If anyone can get these parts, let me know and let me know the prices you can get. Thanks alot.
01-31-2008, 02:38 PM
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Id rather try and find someone who actually works in parts who can get a good price. Then if I dont find that ill go to the right ----------> and pay full price.
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01-31-2008, 03:53 PM
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O'Reilly's is the best deal on a slave. Same thing you'd get from GM.
For a clutch, contact LPE. I got an LS7 take off clutch and fly from them shipped for under $300. The thing looked new, but they may not have any.
Master, mine is still in good shape after 89k miles.
For a clutch, contact LPE. I got an LS7 take off clutch and fly from them shipped for under $300. The thing looked new, but they may not have any.
Master, mine is still in good shape after 89k miles.
01-31-2008, 04:29 PM
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your master cylinder crapped out, bench bleeding does nothing, and when it goes it goes all at once. Just hit up a local autoparts store and get a new one, cheap as hell quick to change, don't bother bleeding it until you get it on the car, have a friend with a strong leg it's a PITA to bleed. I have heard a mity vac works well but I gave up and did it the old fashoned way.
This is the result of gm giving us a plastic master cylinder.
This is the result of gm giving us a plastic master cylinder.
01-31-2008, 09:40 PM
#14
www.sdparts.com scoggin dickey is a GM dealer here with the largest parts department ive ever seen. i bought my ls7 clutch / ls2 flywheel from them for $399 2002 slave was like $39 i think
02-01-2008, 12:44 AM
#15
But, in your next comment you say you just want to replace it all. Now... if you replace parts that aren't bad or faulty isn't that wasting money? It seems to me that based on your comments here you may be replacing all of the parts because you do not understand the problem. Maybe I'm wrong.
Maybe I missed something here.
We diagnose car problems and don't charge to do it in most cases. If you would like an unbiased Professional opinion as to how you really should go about repairing your car call me. I would be happy to help you out.
It's up to you... no worries!
g
02-01-2008, 01:28 AM
#17
You need to start by doing what I had to do. Rip those disease ridden GM hydros out of the car. Dont recycle the metal, its not worthy to live again.
Get a McCleoud or Carteck, master, whatever works best and cheapest. Then go to somewhere like NAPA who does not use GM slaves. Its like 80 bucks I think. The only GM part you have to use is the metal line. And do the drill mod too while you got it out.
You'll be so much happier after cleansing your car of those GM hydros. I didn't have any problems after the GM cleansing.
Use synthetic brake fluid too. DOT 5 I think
EDIT: DO NOT use a spec clutch. Mine was down to the rivets after 15k or less, and ZERO, ZERO track uses and maybe 15 "get on its"
Get a McCleoud or Carteck, master, whatever works best and cheapest. Then go to somewhere like NAPA who does not use GM slaves. Its like 80 bucks I think. The only GM part you have to use is the metal line. And do the drill mod too while you got it out.
You'll be so much happier after cleansing your car of those GM hydros. I didn't have any problems after the GM cleansing.
Use synthetic brake fluid too. DOT 5 I think
EDIT: DO NOT use a spec clutch. Mine was down to the rivets after 15k or less, and ZERO, ZERO track uses and maybe 15 "get on its"
Last edited by Josh McGrath; 02-01-2008 at 01:31 AM. Reason: gramar
02-01-2008, 08:06 AM
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i must be one lucky SOB. had great luck w/ both my spec 3 clutches. my 2nd spec 3 wasn't even a 3+ and it held 780+ ft/lbs, and LOTS of track abuse. never slipped once. my first clutch lasted 2 years and 3+ plus bottles. :dunno:
i firmly believe clutch wear and tear has ALOT to do with each person's driving habits.
02-01-2008, 08:07 AM
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i have a centerforce and i think it is prob my main cause of issue's. Id like to go LS7 clutch but i heard i either need a longer bearing or put spacers on the pressure plate. Which is true?