ACONLP

Anybody Got The Dimension On The Adapters. I Dont Want To Pay All That Money For That Set When I Know There Not Going To Work In My Car. I Have Decided To Try It In My Stock Front In. People That I Have Talked To Keep Saying That They Had To Make There Own Adapters And Bring The Motor Even More Forward. I Cant Get In Touch With Some Of The People I Have Talked To, Or I Would Just Has Them. I Have A 67 Chevy Ii ( Nova ), The Problem Is The Trans. Hitting In The Tunnel Around The Bellhousing. The People I Have Talk To Said They Had To Cut The Floor Up. I Want To Do Less Cutting Has I Can. So This Is Were I Am Going To Have To Make My Own But I Need Something To Start From... If You Can Help That Would Be Great. I Am Tired Of This Car Sitting...

stealth71

iTrader: (15)

Search helps. Check the FAQ stick as well.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....44&postcount=4

rockytopper

I made my own mounts using the camaro mounts and frame mounts. I noticed these adapter kits tend to push the motor against the fire wall. My drivers side head is about 2.5 inches from the fire wall. In my case I need the space for my mechanical throttle pedal linkage that is on the fire wall. I was also using a complete pull out so I didn't want to have to pull off the harness on the engine and reroute and wire it to clear. The factory harness on the engine routes on the back side of the LS1 and down on top of the 4l60e. In my opinion you need this much space to pull the trans etc and clear the stock harnesses if your doing a DIY harness from the factory harness.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...762&highlight=

bczee

iTrader: (12)

I was able to build my Adapter plates from the template in the FAQ as Stealth71 have you.. if you handle with just the normal hand tools, you should be able to make what you need.
I just used a Cutting wheel to get the baisc shape, then a grinder to finish the shape. The just drilled and used a tap on the holes that needed threads.. from the template of the S&P and BRP.. the two baisc style.. by mounting the engine mounts in different location and/or moving the frame mount as needed to get the engine forward or backward to get the clearance you need.
I also narrowed my Frame mounts by 1/2" and sued spacer to alow me to jack the engine into its final location.

The early Nova/ChevyII have always been a little tough to transplant different engines into.. so... good luck... and ask away if you have more questions.. maybe the ChevyII guys will ping in..

Novas Forever

I used Car Shop plates and have plenty of room between the engine and firewall. No cutting or BFH for me!

67pete

I used S&P's and had no problem with the bellhousing, just the M6 and shifter.

SUPERBOOST

iTrader: (11)

There was an article in chevy high performance a couple of years ago that put an ls1 and t56 in a66 or67 chevy II without cutting the trans tunnel at all.He just lowered the motor and trans enough to clear the floor.The car worked great,he even entered it in one of chevy hi's contest,it was somthing like 0-100 and back.I still have this mag somewhere,I will try to find it and give you some better info.I have a 66 that I would like to swap in an ls1 t56 combo with out cutting the floor if possible too.I'all let you know what I find out.

Novas Forever

When I was loking at using a T56 in my '62 I just could not see how it would fit without major surgery. The tunnel narrows way, way down near the tailshaft of a stock trans. I would have to see it to believe it.

67pete

This is mine showing where the shifter sits from the first rib..

bczee

iTrader: (12)

I did have cut and rebuild my Trans Tunnel on my 71' Chevelle.. just to give you something to compare.. so.. if it is smaller than the A-body Tunnel.. get out the cutting and welding tools...

Carshopinc.com

iTrader: (5)

I have the plates for a very reasonable price...... Not worth the time and hassel unless you are a very craft total hands on guy.....

SUPERBOOST

iTrader: (11)

Don't some of the t56's have a more forward mounted shifter location?If they do it would help move the shifter closer to orignal location.It may be an aftermarket trans.I'm thinking of.The tko600 would probably be the way to go ,it has 8 different shifter locations and can come right through the factory console,I think it would fit in the factory trans. tunnel with a little persuasion.

ssduane

iTrader: (3)

My 4L60e sits nicely in my tunnel, I made adapter plates, basically the same as the templates. I did cut off the upper tunnel bolt boss to give extra room though.


Hey Pete, nice idea on that parking brake, I'm using my stock bench seat or I would've done something like that also.

ggriffin59

iTrader: (7)

I used CarShop adapter plates (about $40) for the LS1 going into my 70 Camaro and they seemed to work pretty well. Not a perfect fit to the motor mount on the subframe, but Carshop is helping me figure out the problem, might be I'm using the wrong GM engine mounts. They do have a perfect front/rear orientation to squeeze the LS1 (with F-body oilpan) between the firewall & subframe crossmember, which is a very tight fit.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

The Viper T56 has a more forward location as compared to the F-Body.. that is why I went with one. The F-Body came up right under my Bench seat. The Viper T56 was just right, about 4" forward. And Yes, many aftermarket T56 will allow you to use the other two locations.

McLeod does make a Relocation Shifter and also a Relocation kit to use the forward inspection plates for the shifter. But I figured that after I bought the kits and had the Trans Rebuilt with the kit.. I could sell my F-Body one and just pay a little more for the Viper T56 that was already converted for the LSx engine.

SUPERBOOST

iTrader: (11)

Thats great info for folks doing a ls1 swap into older cars,theres always more ways than one to get to the desired results.Will the converted viper trans bolt right up?And do you know how much the mcleod relocation kit runs?

bczee

iTrader: (12)

As far as coverting the Viper T56 trans. The Correct way to do it is to disassemble the trans, replace the input shaft with a F-Body (GM) one and also the front Adapter plate, This is in between the Trans and Bell Housing, The Clutch Slave bolt to it. Use a F-Body (or GM) bell housing and all should bolt up with any problem.

The Trans that I got didn't completely get converted. They failed to switch the Adapter plate and I had to modify the clocking of the bolt of the Clutch Slave Throw Out Bearing. But the Bell Housing still bolted up to the Viper Adapter plate (There are thee different adapter plates, GM, Ford and Dodge).

I don't recall the price of the relocation kit or shifter, but the Shifter is like a custom order part, you call up McLeod, tell them the offset of the shifter you want and they build (giving you the part number) and sell if through SummitRacing (or more costly, directly). If you search on Summit's site for "McLeod Shifter" you wil find some different part numbers and description of Relocation or Relocator. All seem to be $300+ range.

So, after you get the McLeod relocator kit, a new Shifter (F-body will not work in the two front locations), pay for the labor to do the conversion, add some new Viper Rated parts (synco, steel shifter arms, maybe some straight cut gears, You could have just bough a Aftermarket rated Viper T56 that will bolt up to the GM engines. Which is why I just went sold the F-Body T56 and bought the Viper one. It is rated much stronger that the GM one, has a larger Output shift.. and well all of the stronger internals. FYI.,. the VSS Sensor is a problem, they are different. Since I am using a Autometer Speedo.. it is not a problem.

You should really call McLeod and get there price from them.

SUPERBOOST

iTrader: (11)

I just got ahold of a tremec spec chart.They have an aftermarket t56 that is21.62 inches from the front of the bell housing to the center of the shifter position.The factory muncie four speed is about 18 inches on the same measurement.Thats closer than any six speed i've seen.Do you know what the viper trans is on that measurement with any adapter plates you have to have?The viper trans is not on my chart.If anyone wants the part number of the after market trans let me know.Of course if you can live with a five speed the tko600 is probably a better choice,it has eight shift locations,is quite a bit stronger,about 25 lbs.lighter and if your buying aftermarket anyway is price competitive,smaller dementions that makes it fit better in factory trans tunnel.

67pete

Any way you go, you still need to cut the tunnel as the T56's are top loaders, while the Muncies & BW's are side shifters......