I Go To Costco

iTrader: (1)

This is a question especially for you guys who track a lot. Does your pedal ever go limp at all? How do you keep the clutch fluid clean besides replacing it every damn week? It worked great after I changed it with Ranger's method but about a week later it went soft again, and I don't even track my car or really drive it hard.... once it a while I'll flog it on an empty road.

I know some of you have the drill mod, some have a slave extension for easier bleeding (?) and bleed the clutch, a few of you have ultra expensive brake fluid, and some have new hydraulics. So what is it, or do you guys really change it every week or so? I'm using Prestone Synthetic DOT 4 clutch fluid, but I didn't bleed the system or anything. If I keep changing it with Ranger's method will it eventually get better and better and I'll end up needing to change it less or what?

Bleeding the clutch on this car sounds like a PITA, and changing it Ranger's method is relatively quick and easy but its still a hassle if I gotta do it at least once a month.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Slave bleeder extension, a Motive Power bleeder with the European car adapter (fits the clutch master cylinder reservoir), and Castrol SRF.

I Go To Costco

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Meent for the ultra quick reply. I remember I asked you about the SRF... I figured if the boiling point was high enough to never even get boiled, it would last pretty damn long, at least until contaminants dirtied it. Gotten a chance to test out the Castrol fluid yet?

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Not really...my Master's thesis is coming due with a quickness, and it has been sapping all of my time. I'll probably get some good runs in in the next couple of months though...

Torkman15

iTrader: (2)

I have taken my trans out soo many times from busted this and worn out that I havent had any problems with my fluid getting dirty, is this a good thing or a bad thing??? All depends on how you look at it, good thing I'm running 10s and bad thing that 10s are hard on everything but the headliner.

thesource

iTrader: (60)

Crush up a Viagra and add it to the fluid ..... it will stay rock hard and even give you some more stroke to the pedal !!!

That was a joke

Gary Z

Occasionally changing the fluid in the reservoir (Ranger's method) works for me. If your fluid quickly turns black, your slave's seal is leaking and the hydraulic fluid is being contaminated with molybdenum disulfide grease.

ygbg_04

I have an 04 GTO, my resevior gets really cloudy really fast. it's been bled once but not even a month later and its turning dark again. same thing???

ae13291

iTrader: (8)

i also use prestone full synthetic DOT 4 and i used to replace my fluid once a week! but now i did the drill mod, and while the clutch line was out i wrapped it up with high heat tape! i used aircraft high heat electronical wrap! ever since i have done that i never needed to touch the fluid again! the fluid has been clear for more then 2 months now! with WOT runs all the time! and completly flushing the fluid is not hard at all! its not that much of a PITA, it takes me 10 mins i just need another person in the car to press the pedel!

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Do all the preventative stuff such as wrapping the line and getting all DOT 4 synthetic fluid in there.

Do a proper bleed w/ 2 people.

Then monitor every week, or if you do ALOT of Hard driving, or a track day, it should be swapped out with fresh fluid.

black01_WS6

iTrader: (13)

The best way I found was to put some cheap heat wrap around the slave line, and use regular DOT3 fluid, and flush the system every now and then.

I think the heat wrap is key on these cars as where the lines go.

SladeX

I kinda went overboard in protecting the hydraulic line. First my longtubes are ceramic coated. Stainless steel isn't enough in my opinion, the ceramic cuts heat down A LOT.

Then I have my hydraulic line covered in heater hose from the quick disconnect to all but a few inches from the master. It's then wrapped up in aluminum tape and finally has a spark plug wire heat shield boot on it. I picked up a DEI fireboot used in NASCAR to protect it. Results are I've hotlapped the car and not had my clutch go limp even after 15+ consecutive hot lap runs at the track.

I use DOt4 synthetic as Ranger specifies, do a full flush every 6-8 months or so and a Ranger fluid circulation a few times during the season.

Kurt

Which Motive bleeder is right? P/N 0250 or 0100?