2000_SS

iTrader: (24)

i've never done this before, but i'm going to be dropping the cradle out of my SS in a couple days, motor/tranny/k-member assy.

wondering what the tricks were? i know i need to unhook the battery, unplug every sensor on the motor & tranny (T56), remove the driveshaft, drain all the fluids, unbolt strut tower bolts and the k-member bolts to drop it all out...

anything i'm forgeting/didn't mention? any tricks? i plan on using some old wheels to put underneath the car's rear wheels. i have a cherry picker ready to go to lift the car. i'm going to (maybe) use my creeper to lay the engine/tranny/k-member assy. on and roll out from under the car. anyone think that's a bad idea? what did you all use?


thanks,
ben

donalr76

It would be easier with a lift but you prolly know that. One trick we noticed when we swapped my motor was to undo the upper ball joint and the lower strut bolt and they can stay in the car and you don't have to mess with the master cylinder.

2000_SS

iTrader: (24)

that's not a bad idea i suppose, anybody else got anything? what are you all using for your "cart" to get the motor/tranny out from under the car? or is there another method? obviously i don't have a lift or i wouldn't have posted this thread

RsSean

iTrader: (27)

When I did mine I had to undo the brake line attached to the ABS module, plus the braid line attcahed to the slave cylinder is applicable. Also like said above undo the ball joints, I did the bottom. Disconnet the PCM wires that run thought the firewall on the passenger side and feed them back into the engine bay saves a lot of time. I hoped this helped, and be sure to go slow and make sure everything is loose before yanking on it.
-Sean-

88zukon36s

iTrader: (5)

like said above leave the wire harness on the engine and just pull the computer, and disconect the wires that run trough the firewall.

2000_SS

iTrader: (24)

found this: http://www.z28.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1260627

seems to sum it up pretty well.

gold98Z28

iTrader: (7)

deff saves time to leave the comp/harness connected, undo the rear AC lines at EVAP so you can just flop the compter over on top of the engine, after you unhook those three plugs from inside of coarse, you can unhook your positive cable from the starter and keep it in the car or unhook it from the fuse relay center on driver side and take it with the engine up to you. the two front braded brake lines from the ABS block, front lines are marked, steering shaft, coolant lines, air box, throttle cables, fuel lines, tq arm, drive shaft and trans mount, and six cradle bolts and struts, i think its easier to take them out than to disconect but that all person oppion. i put a regular bolt in the spot that the torx head bolt is under the master and can be removed without removing master now. i think the abs wheel sensors have to be unplugged near the K-member as part of the harnes stays with the car i think, bout all i can think of off the top of my head, oh exhaust if you have any.lol......air tubes and air pump if you still have that dead weight hanging around. if you think your creeper will support the weight then go for it. i have done it several ways dependent on where i was and what i had. last time i had no cart so i used a tranny jack and left the wheels on it. rolled it right out. have to pick the car up higher is the only draw back to that.

2000_SS

iTrader: (24)

sounds good....i'm still toying around with ideas for a "cart"....