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iTrader: (6)

I will be replacing my knock sensors on my 1998 Formula this weekend and want to make sure I buy the right parts. Do I need to upgrade to newer sensors or just replace with 98 sensors? Any help would be great! Thanks

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

The 98 part is probably now the upgraded part in GM's system, thats how they usually do it.

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iTrader: (6)

I found the part number on an old thread. Hopefully replacing these will stop my sound of pebbles at WOT.

Or yet what does knock retard sound like anyways? Thanks

UCABlackChevy

iTrader: (10)

The sound of pebbles in a can at WOT is actual knock. The new version of knock sensors cure false knock. Is your car tuned? Tell us more about your car.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

The pepple sound is real knock. You need to figure out the source of that. Start with the basics such as fuel filter and plugs/wires. I had real knock once and I cured it by simply replacing the fuel filter.

Replacing ther sensor may stop the sound but the PCM will be pulling timing to prevent it. Either way you need to cure the cause of the knock.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Agreed on all counts...you are hearing actual knock. Fix that before anything else.

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iTrader: (6)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...048&highlight=

Above is my actual thread of my knock. The last post says I think I found my culprit, stupid MAF!

So my question now is, at WOT I was throwing 4 degrees of KR at WOT showing on his HPtuners. Is that hurting me?

UCABlackChevy

iTrader: (10)

Are you still hearing the pebbles or is that gone? If that sound is gone and you are still getting 4 degrees of KR then swapping them out would be beneficial and probably worth it. Its not hurting your motor, but it is killing a small amount of your HP.

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iTrader: (6)

After I left my tuners house I was able to swap out MAF's so not sure what's happening now as far as KR. I will find out this weekend. But with my faulty MAF it was 4 degrees of KR at WOT.

jxaxsxoxn

iTrader: (2)

You should just find the KR wire harness connector behind the intake and ohm them out.
If they ohm out within spec there is no need to pull the intake to change them because if they're good they're good, if they're not they're not.
If you've hosed your engine down with water a lot chances are higher that they are bad.

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iTrader: (6)

I wanted to bump this up because I am still have KR problems.

This past weekend I replaced my plugs, wires and fuel filter and the weekend before did a full seafoam treatment and changed the oil/filter.

This weekend I will be replacing my knock sensor and harness so in hopes that this will fix my actual knock.

Here is the post from the guy that has been tuning my car but after several sessions we can still not get the knock to go away. https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagnostics-tuning/884327-98-formula-help-tune.html


Any ideas would be great! Thanks