View Full Version : Aluminum or Iron Case to go with my MOSER 9"?

02-28-2008, 02:56 PM
getting ready to get a MOSER 9" but am debating on a aluminum center or iron.

what do you guys think?

any advantages or disadvantages over the other?

02-28-2008, 03:16 PM
aluminum is lighter, but more expensive...............alum. ftw

02-28-2008, 04:12 PM
if the car is a daily driver... go iron. other than that, cost vs. weight is the only real issue for you to decide.

02-28-2008, 06:03 PM
If you want aluminum and think it's too expensive I'm not sure what to say. It's $100.00 to $150.00 more for the aluminum on average right?

Let's say worst case you spend $2,500.00 and to go aluminum it costs you $150.00

150/2500 = 0.06 .... or .... 6%

See where I'm going with this?

150/2800 = 0.0535...or .... 5%

I just don't understand if someone wants aluminum and they are spending at least $2,500.00 why they wouldn't spend another $150.00

I just bought mine from Thunder last Weds.

I would have went iron because most ls1tech members talk about how there is very little weight difference, but I talked it over with my tech and he said the iron was dog ass heavy!

02-28-2008, 06:09 PM
I just don't understand if someone wants aluminum and they are spending at least $2,500.00 why they wouldn't spend another $150.00

Hang on there chief...let's leave the common sense out of this thread.


People are weird about money like that...

02-28-2008, 06:12 PM
I went with a Strange Pro nodular. I have herd that if you put a lot of miles on an aluminum center section the bearings and gears tend to wear faster. I can see getting aluminum if you have a race only car, but if you have a daily driver or a double duty (Street/strip) car, I think the Iron is your best bet.

02-28-2008, 07:39 PM
I thought I remember hearing the aluminum case makes for a noiser rearend. Maybe someone can confirm this or call BS.

02-28-2008, 07:41 PM
what ever is cheap an does the same thing

02-28-2008, 07:55 PM
I thought I remember hearing the aluminum case makes for a noiser rearend. Maybe someone can confirm this or call BS.


02-28-2008, 08:46 PM
I thought I remember hearing the aluminum case makes for a noiser rearend. Maybe someone can confirm this or call BS.

I've never noticed that. About half of the rears we sell are with the alum case, it is a thru bolt design, and weighs 14 pounds less. If it were mine I'd go with the alum. Bob

02-28-2008, 09:30 PM
Alum center sections should be pulled out after the first few hundred miles to have the lash. and pre loads checked... they do move around more.... Weight wouldnt be my main concern in a street car maybe in a gutted race car... I would be looking at a Ford Racing Investment cast steel 3rd member lighter and stronger than iron.....

02-28-2008, 10:46 PM
its a street/strip car... i plan on taking it to the beach in april which is like 3hrs away from here

02-29-2008, 06:32 AM
We have hundreds of Moser alum center sections out there without any problems. Bob

Save up to 14 lbs with a Moser Aluminum case. Our thru-bolted center is one of the strongest units on the market. Moser aluminum cases are made of 356-T6 aluminum with 7075-T6 aluminum caps and billet steel adjusters. They feature a super strong thru-bolt design to give the case increased strength and decreased ring gear deflection common in most aluminum case designs. All Moser Aluminum cases are drilled for the 3/8” stock pinion studs and 7/16” heavy-duty studs. Moser aluminum cases are designed to be used with either a standard pilot bearing with snap ring retention, or a heavy duty, wider pinion bearing utilizing button head bolts for retention is available. Step up to the best thru-bolted aluminum center section on the market!

02-29-2008, 01:24 PM
I'm going to go with an Aluminum center section. If you've got the funds and plan for doing more later on, why not do it right the first time.

02-29-2008, 01:58 PM
i am debating the same thing for my car. has a section explaing most questions people have about a moser 9".

i say if you are gonna spend $2,500 on a rearend, then $150 more dollars isn't that big of a difference. My question is " if you set aside the price difference, then which one would be better??????"

03-01-2008, 05:20 AM
i am debating the same thing for my car. has a section explaing most questions people have about a moser 9".

i say if you are gonna spend $2,500 on a rearend, then $150 more dollars isn't that big of a difference. My question is " if you set aside the price difference, then which one would be better??????"

If you want one that is going to last until the end of time, then the nodular iron case would be the way to go. With that being said I haven't heard of anyone breaking or wearing out one of the Moser alum cases, plus it saves 14 pounds and looks cool. If it were mine, I'd go with the alum case. Bob

03-02-2008, 12:38 AM has a section explaing most questions people have about a moser 9".


03-02-2008, 10:56 AM
you should seriously look at these...

03-02-2008, 01:08 PM
I went with the Strange Pro case. I wanted to go with the Moser aluminum but was worried about failure. In hindsight, I wish I'd have got the Moser Aluminum case. I havent heard of a single problem after reading through many posts. The Strange nodular case looks weak to me,I'd stay away from it. I'd use the Strange Pro alum over the Strange nodular. If you have the money, I'd buy the Moser. If not, Maybe you'd buy my pro case so I could buy the Moser? :thinker:

03-02-2008, 04:32 PM

03-02-2008, 05:48 PM

Q: I'm ready to order online, but confused. How does it work?
Q: Do you guys price match?
Q: How can Tick Performance afford to be so much cheaper than others?
Q: Why should I buy Moser instead of Strange?
Q: Which Moser Rear is right for my application?
Q: What about options? Differentials? ABS?
Q: I want my rear shortened. How much does that cost?
Q: Should I upgrade to the aluminum center section in my Moser 9"?
Q: Will my Moser Rear be noisy or leaky?
Q: Do I have 3 channel or 4 channel ABS?
Q: Which gear ratio should I choose?
Q: Why order a Moser Rear instead of a junkyard 9" or 12 bolt?
Q: Why not just beef up my stock 10 bolt?
Q: I still have questions! Help?


A: We've set up our safe, secure online checkout in the easiest way possible. When ordering online, start by choosing the quantity of Rear Ends you want to order (usually just one). Pick your gear ratio and click buy. After that, go down the list and buy each of the upgrades you'd like. If you are looking for an option but don't see it online, feel free to give us a call and we'll help out in any way that we can.


A: Absolutely. If you find a lower advertised price on any product we offer, contact us with it and we'll do our best to match - or beat - our competition.


A: There are a few different reasons that we're able to price our products so much cheaper than the others - first and foremost being our attitude. Many parts retailers are in the performance industry to get rich - we're not. We love GM's sports car division and we love tracking these cars just like you do! We understand better than anyone how expensive these things can get, so keeping high performance parts affordable to our customers is the best way we've found to keep a smile on everyone's faces. Another reason we're able to price our parts so low is because we keep our expenses so low - don't ever expect to see any fancy, ten thousand dollar checkout system on our site. We use the most affordable, most secure checkout system we can. Since we keep our expenses low, we're able to keep your parts cost low. The last reason we're able to keep costs low is simple: don't ever expect to see any huge markups at Tick Performance. For your average enthusiant, automotive performance is a hobby - you shouldn't need to take a second job just to afford the profit-margin that many retailers enjoy.


A: Moser and Strange both make high quality bolt-in rears for our fourth generation F-Bodies. They're similar in strength and similar in price, but there is one major difference between the two rear end manufacturers: turnaround time! Moser ships all of their orders within 2 days! Strange has been known to take much, much longer (3-4 weeks). This reason alone is enough to make the decision a no-brainer to most.


A: Ultimately, the final decision is up to you. It is your car and you are one who'll be driving it. However: since we've been selling Moser Rear Ends for years and we've got loads of experience with these in fourth-generation F-Bodies, we'll gladly give you a few general recommendations:

If you've got a manual transmission, we suggest a Moser 9". By design, it is undeniably stronger (and a tad heavier) than the 12 bolt. More importantly, it won't pick up the gear noise that a 12 bolt seems to pick up after multiple track passes and high RPM launches on sticky tires. A manual transmission car hits the tires much harder than an automatic car - therefore the extra strength of the 9" is much needed.

If you've got an automatic transmission, we suggest a Moser 12 bolt. Even transbraked automatic cars don't hit the tires as hard as a manual transmission car - meaning that the 12 bolt will hold up well behind most any automatic car. It is lighter and takes less power to turn than a 9". Has been known to pick up some gear noise after constant abuse at the track.

If you've got a 10 second car or faster, check out the new M9. It comes with the strongest torque arm available and a crossmember set up for the transmission you choose. This setup is a bit extreme for a daily driver, but it is track-proven to WORK!

Either Moser Rear is much, much stronger than the stock 10 bolt. While upgrading to a Moser Rear isn't always the end-all, be-all solution - it most certainly is a HUGE improvement over that stock toothpick.


A: Deciding how to dress up your Moser Rear can often be as hard as choosing which one you want! Hopefully we can make your decisions a bit easier.

If you drive your car on the street, go with a TrueTrac differential. It is stronger than the Eaton Posi but not as unstreetable as a spool. The TrueTrac is TOUGH and drives just like a stocker - it is easily our favorite choice for 10-second and slower street cars.

If you've got a FAST car but still drive on the street, the Detroit Locker may be your best bet. It is stronger than the TrueTrac, but not as mannerful to drive on the street. It is much easier to drive on (and more expensive!) than a spool.

If you drive your car at the track only, a spool is likely your best bet. It is the strongest, lightest and cheapest option - and also the least streetable. If you're building a race car and aren't concerned with street manners - go with the spool!

Axle spline selection is an easy one. CLICK HERE to open a new window and visit Moser Engineering's homepage. Enter a few specifics about your ride and view their axle spline recommendations. To achieve maximum performance you should use the smallest axle that will safely handle the torque your car produces.

Retaining your ABS is easy! All Moser Rears are now available with 3 or 4 channel ABS setups.


A: If you're interested in a shortened rear end for your application, give us a call and we can help you out. Often there is no additional charge for this service.


A: The aluminum center section is a good idea in theory, but in real-world application it really isn't practical. Moser had to use so much extra aluminum to make the center section as strong as the nodular iron that it really killed the weight savings aspect. There have also been rumors of the aluminum center sections getting so hot during street driving that deflection started to occur, causing gear noise. If you've got a street car, stick with nodular. If you've got a race car and you're looking for the most lightweight 9" you can buy, give us a call and we'll discuss some options with you.


A: We've all heard horror stories of poor guys spending lots of money on a nice new rear end only to recieve it and be disappointed with lots of gear noise and leaks. In our experience, this simply hasn't been the case. Your gears will be shipped to you already set up - if you want to be 100% sure they're right, have a local experienced axle shop check them before installation. If you're worried about leaks, let your installer know that you're concerned and instruct them to take extra precaution to avoid any potential leaks. The install price may rise, but you'll sleep better at night knowing that your new Moser Rear will be leak and noise free.


A: If your fourth-generation F-Body has traction control, you have 4 channel ABS. If it does not, you have 3 channel ABS.


A: Gear selection is another tough choice to make. There are many guides online that will lead you in the right direction. Generally speaking, you want the gear that will allow you to cross the traps at the end of the quarter mile as high in the RPM range in fourth gear as possible. There are many different factors to consider when selecting gear size! A good idea is to gauge some real world results: look at guys on LS1tech who have a combination similar to yours and see which gear ratio they're having good luck with. Of course, if you give us a buzz we can make some recommendations for you as well.


A: Moser has designed a 12 bolt and a 9" that are ready to be bolted in to your fourth generation F-Body chassis. They've got torque arm brackets already welded on, a torque arm mount, and a panhard bar bracket as well. Modifying a 9" or 12 bolt out of a different car or truck to work with your torque arm style suspension would be a long and arduous task that many would consider nearly impossible. If you're looking to pinch every last penny, we offer Moser 9" and Moser M9 housing & axle packages that are ready to bolt in, allowing you to source your own third member.


A: Dollar per dollar, the absolute best investment is a Moser 12 bolt or 9". The factory stock 10 bolt is a toothpick, and odds are that you've already snapped yours if you're looking at our Moser pricing. You could spend anywhere from $1000-1500 trying to beef up the 10 bolt with a better gear, better posi unit, better axles, a tough differential cover, and every other toy under the sun - but the bottom line is that it STILL will break. It's just not possible to make the 10 bolt strong enough to be reliable behind a spiritedly driven fourth generation F-body, even in stock form. The smarter bet is simply to spend ~$2000 once the right way, rather than spend more than that over time constantly fixing and replacing a weak 10 bolt.


A: If you've still got questions, feel free to give us a buzz during our normal business hours of Monday-Friday from 9am-6pm EST. We offer Moser's full line of products at VERY competitive prices, so give us a shot before placing your order elsewhere. If you want to talk to Moser Engineering's technical team direct, they can be reached at (260)726-6689.