Aluminum or Iron Case to go with my MOSER 9"?
#1
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From: Rock Hill, South Carolina
Aluminum or Iron Case to go with my MOSER 9"?
getting ready to get a MOSER 9" but am debating on a aluminum center or iron.
what do you guys think?
any advantages or disadvantages over the other?
what do you guys think?
any advantages or disadvantages over the other?
#4
If you want aluminum and think it's too expensive I'm not sure what to say. It's $100.00 to $150.00 more for the aluminum on average right?
Let's say worst case you spend $2,500.00 and to go aluminum it costs you $150.00
150/2500 = 0.06 .... or .... 6%
See where I'm going with this?
150/2800 = 0.0535...or .... 5%
I just don't understand if someone wants aluminum and they are spending at least $2,500.00 why they wouldn't spend another $150.00
I just bought mine from Thunder last Weds.
I would have went iron because most ls1tech members talk about how there is very little weight difference, but I talked it over with my tech and he said the iron was dog *** heavy!
Let's say worst case you spend $2,500.00 and to go aluminum it costs you $150.00
150/2500 = 0.06 .... or .... 6%
See where I'm going with this?
150/2800 = 0.0535...or .... 5%
I just don't understand if someone wants aluminum and they are spending at least $2,500.00 why they wouldn't spend another $150.00
I just bought mine from Thunder last Weds.
I would have went iron because most ls1tech members talk about how there is very little weight difference, but I talked it over with my tech and he said the iron was dog *** heavy!
#5
#6
I went with a Strange Pro nodular. I have herd that if you put a lot of miles on an aluminum center section the bearings and gears tend to wear faster. I can see getting aluminum if you have a race only car, but if you have a daily driver or a double duty (Street/strip) car, I think the Iron is your best bet.
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#10
I've never noticed that. About half of the rears we sell are with the alum case, it is a thru bolt design, and weighs 14 pounds less. If it were mine I'd go with the alum. Bob
#11
Alum center sections should be pulled out after the first few hundred miles to have the lash. and pre loads checked... they do move around more.... Weight wouldnt be my main concern in a street car maybe in a gutted race car... I would be looking at a Ford Racing Investment cast steel 3rd member lighter and stronger than iron.....
#13
We have hundreds of Moser alum center sections out there without any problems. Bob
COMPLETE ALUMINUM CENTER SECTION
Save up to 14 lbs with a Moser Aluminum case. Our thru-bolted center is one of the strongest units on the market. Moser aluminum cases are made of 356-T6 aluminum with 7075-T6 aluminum caps and billet steel adjusters. They feature a super strong thru-bolt design to give the case increased strength and decreased ring gear deflection common in most aluminum case designs. All Moser Aluminum cases are drilled for the 3/8” stock pinion studs and 7/16” heavy-duty studs. Moser aluminum cases are designed to be used with either a standard pilot bearing with snap ring retention, or a heavy duty, wider pinion bearing utilizing button head bolts for retention is available. Step up to the best thru-bolted aluminum center section on the market!
COMPLETE ALUMINUM CENTER SECTION
Save up to 14 lbs with a Moser Aluminum case. Our thru-bolted center is one of the strongest units on the market. Moser aluminum cases are made of 356-T6 aluminum with 7075-T6 aluminum caps and billet steel adjusters. They feature a super strong thru-bolt design to give the case increased strength and decreased ring gear deflection common in most aluminum case designs. All Moser Aluminum cases are drilled for the 3/8” stock pinion studs and 7/16” heavy-duty studs. Moser aluminum cases are designed to be used with either a standard pilot bearing with snap ring retention, or a heavy duty, wider pinion bearing utilizing button head bolts for retention is available. Step up to the best thru-bolted aluminum center section on the market!
#15
i am debating the same thing for my car. www.tick-performance.com/ has a section explaing most questions people have about a moser 9".
i say if you are gonna spend $2,500 on a rearend, then $150 more dollars isn't that big of a difference. My question is " if you set aside the price difference, then which one would be better??????"
i say if you are gonna spend $2,500 on a rearend, then $150 more dollars isn't that big of a difference. My question is " if you set aside the price difference, then which one would be better??????"
#16
i am debating the same thing for my car. www.tick-performance.com/ has a section explaing most questions people have about a moser 9".
i say if you are gonna spend $2,500 on a rearend, then $150 more dollars isn't that big of a difference. My question is " if you set aside the price difference, then which one would be better??????"
i say if you are gonna spend $2,500 on a rearend, then $150 more dollars isn't that big of a difference. My question is " if you set aside the price difference, then which one would be better??????"
#17
www.tick-performance.com/ has a section explaing most questions people have about a moser 9".
#18
#19
I went with the Strange Pro case. I wanted to go with the Moser aluminum but was worried about failure. In hindsight, I wish I'd have got the Moser Aluminum case. I havent heard of a single problem after reading through many posts. The Strange nodular case looks weak to me,I'd stay away from it. I'd use the Strange Pro alum over the Strange nodular. If you have the money, I'd buy the Moser. If not, Maybe you'd buy my pro case so I could buy the Moser?