JackZ28

Hey guys, if I'm using these, do I use the same torque specs as found on ls1how-to.com? I was doing my second 90* pass on 1-8, and on #7, I cracked the socket...

Please inform! Thanks!

FEAR THE LS1

iTrader: (1)

Torque in the order provided by the Helms manual, but NOT to their torque specs. Instead, for all larger studs, torque to 65 ft-lbs, then loosen, torque again to 65, loosen again, and torque one final time to 65. Do this procedure on each stud before moving on. This is called pre-stretching, it gives a more accurate long-term torque reading. For the smaller top row of bolts, torque to 22 ft-lbs using the same procedure above. These ones need a deep socket and/or extension to clear the heads. Note if you have an iron block, add 5 ft-lbs to both these numbers.

Loosen all the nuts by a few turns. Take your hex key/allen wrench and tighten all the studs down, the pre-stretching procedure can back them out a bit. You want to make sure the nuts are backed off enough so they don't stop the stud from bottoming out again.

Tighten all large diameter studs in the Helm order to 20 ft-lbs.

Tighten all large diameter studs in the Helm order to 40 ft-lbs.

Tighten all large diameter studs in the Helm order to 65 ft-lbs.

Go over them all again at 65 ft-lbs.

Wait 30 mins and make one final pass at 65 ft-lbs. Make sure you get NO give/movement on any of the nuts this time. If so finish this pass and repeat step 15 until there is no give.

Tighten the smaller studs to 22 ft-lbs in the Helm order. Go over them 1 or 2 more times.

JackZ28

Thanks man. I will work on it tomorrow.

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

NOOOOOOO!!!!!

you don't use the torque to yield specks (90 degree stuff) with non torque to yield bolts/studs (ARP products)!!!!!

you use the torque specks that are on the back of the ARP box....

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

Fear: Where'd you get that info from?

SSG-Z28

I'd like to know myself..

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

that’s a pretty standard torque sequence.....

you start out at about 1/3 to the final torque speck.....then do 2/3 final torque speck.....then finally do the full torque speck....

then you remove the bolt/nut and redo it 3 or 4 times (total process) before your finished....


this lest the bolt stretch even and gives you an accurate torque speck.....

SSG-Z28

Hey man, on the box, it says that the specs provided are just general specs, not application-specific.. What does that mean, exactly?

BTW, my last name is Fountain. Kind of funny, huh??

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

Im curious because he says to torque it all down and then loosen and retorque. You cant torque a head head gasket and compress it and loosen the the head and retorque it. It messes up the head gaskets because they are already compressed and may not seal right anymore. That would be a good procedure to use if you had the cometic HGs as they are reusable. Stock gaskets arent. You torque it once and if you loosen it, the gaskets are done, they dont recompress

Thats why I was asking.

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

you still want to use those numbers (its your best bet).....

ARP figured out that for a 13mm bolt going into aluminum, it needs "X" amount of torque to reach the required pre-stretch.....




I guess in reality, if you really wanted to do a good torque sequence, you would install the heads with the old gaskets, torque your studs 4 or 5 times, then replace the gaskets (install the new) and do your final torque....



The way I did it was to not remove all the nuts....rather I did the torque sequence through once, then I went one stud at a time and torqued it 3 times (loosen, torque, loosen, torque, loosen, torque....move to the next) so I always kept pressure on the gasket.

When I was done with that, I followed through the torque sequence with the final spec ARP said to hit and checked every bolt.....


so....who knows.....I have almost 8 months of some heavy footed driving on the car and still no problems.....

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

So, is that ARPs procedure then up there ^^^ ? I couldnt find it anywhere on their site

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

good question.....

thats what I "complied" from just about every artical/post/book/etc. I could get my hands on when I was preparing to do my head/cam swap....

if you have a copy of the september 2003 Chevy High Performance, they have a write up titled The Strong Survive, Installing Engine Fasteners Correctly (throughout the entire engine) and 99% of it is dealing with ARP bolts/studs. They don't deal with gaskets but they do say that ARP says to do 5 torque sequences (torque, loosen, torque, loosen, etc..) on their bolts/studs.