any good guides on porting intakes?
03-14-2008, 11:50 AM
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any good guides on porting intakes? was talking to a buddy about doing a possible motor build le2 heads and a bigger throttle body like a 58 mm but if i have ported heads i figured i'll probably need a better flow in my intake. so i was curious if there where any good guides on porting intakes? or if anyone knows someone who's pretty good at it. . .
03-14-2008, 12:04 PM
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Figured, well - i'm about to get a set of heads and then save over the rest of the summer and send them off to get ported. . .so i figured i was already gunna be on my knees there after that purchase. . .so i was hoping there where some easy do it yourself guides.
03-14-2008, 12:11 PM
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ahh, that's a little more reasonable 
I'll put that one up on the board as an idea. - i've got someone trying to sell me an intake off of a 93 lt is there really much diffrence if any at all to my 95? I know regardless their all lt1 intakes but i know how weird GM can get about diffrent years.
I'll put that one up on the board as an idea. - i've got someone trying to sell me an intake off of a 93 lt is there really much diffrence if any at all to my 95? I know regardless their all lt1 intakes but i know how weird GM can get about diffrent years.
03-14-2008, 12:16 PM
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ahh, that's a little more reasonable I'll put that one up on the board as an idea. - i've got someone trying to sell me an intake off of a 93 lt is there really much diffrence if any at all to my 95? I know regardless their all lt1 intakes but i know how weird GM can get about diffrent years.
I'll put that one up on the board as an idea. - i've got someone trying to sell me an intake off of a 93 lt is there really much diffrence if any at all to my 95? I know regardless their all lt1 intakes but i know how weird GM can get about diffrent years.
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03-14-2008, 01:28 PM
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ahh, that's a little more reasonable I'll put that one up on the board as an idea. - i've got someone trying to sell me an intake off of a 93 lt is there really much diffrence if any at all to my 95? I know regardless their all lt1 intakes but i know how weird GM can get about diffrent years.
I'll put that one up on the board as an idea. - i've got someone trying to sell me an intake off of a 93 lt is there really much diffrence if any at all to my 95? I know regardless their all lt1 intakes but i know how weird GM can get about diffrent years.
lol
03-14-2008, 08:06 PM
#13
$200 here as well Lloyd took care of it for me
He took 3lbs of material out of the intake.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...y/DSCF0215.jpg
I guess if you drove them to him and included the cost of food and hotel room ... yeah probably.
The rest of us use this cool thing called shipping
He took 3lbs of material out of the intake.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...y/DSCF0215.jpg
I guess if you drove them to him and included the cost of food and hotel room ... yeah probably.
The rest of us use this cool thing called shipping
Last edited by James Montigny; 03-15-2008 at 10:29 AM.
03-15-2008, 10:15 AM
#14
I would say have the same guy do heads and intake. Different shops have different ideas of where material needs to be removed and if the shops have different ideas as AI and LE do then having one do the intake and the other the heads begs for a missmatch at the joint between the two, which would be contradictory to what you were trying to accomplish.
Advanced Induction did mine but they did the heads too and it worked fine but I would not put it on LE heads.
As covered the 93 intake lacks the channel for the front fuel rail crossover, would have to get the fuel rail welded up and a raised crossover put in it to run a 94+ rail on a 93 intake.
Advanced Induction did mine but they did the heads too and it worked fine but I would not put it on LE heads.
As covered the 93 intake lacks the channel for the front fuel rail crossover, would have to get the fuel rail welded up and a raised crossover put in it to run a 94+ rail on a 93 intake.
i was thinking for the whole package. not just the intake. 
03-16-2008, 09:22 AM
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The stock cylinder head has a larger min. cross section (PR pinch) than the intake (inj ski slope) sp a ported intake is almost worthless on a stock set of heads other than a lil more plenum volume. You "might" see 3-5 HP at 6000 RPM and NOTHING below 3500 RPM if using stock heads.
Once the heads are ported and the min cross section is opened up, the intake can be a restriction and if the intake is opened up at its restriction point, you can thens ee some gains.
Pretty much leave the gasket area alone on floor and roof, match the divider wall to the gasket and the outer wall can be straitened up if you have the intake that tapers smaller near the roof. If you have the intake that is square at gasket area already, you do not even need to touch the outer walls at gasket area. The cross section at gasket area is already bigger than the restriction in intake and cylinder head so making gasket area larger does NOTHING but slow down the air at this point and make it have even more of a change when speeing up to the restriction areas.
Remove material from ski slope in roof and try to get the cross section to at least match the cross section at the PR pinch of the cylinder head. Most of the gaisn are from this.
You can also widen the runner .100-.120 where it meets the plenum to allow the air to slow down and make this turn easier at a higher HP level.
You can also remove material from the floor and make it match the shape of the roof. This allows a larger cross section at inector ski slope and also corrects the L shaped angle from where intake port of manifold and intake port of head meet each other and makes the transition of the two much easier.
Open the TB holes and remove material from side walls to make the air have more of a strait shot in.
Here are some pics . . . . .
http://www.mowhineracing.com/ch22.html
Lloyd
Once the heads are ported and the min cross section is opened up, the intake can be a restriction and if the intake is opened up at its restriction point, you can thens ee some gains.
Pretty much leave the gasket area alone on floor and roof, match the divider wall to the gasket and the outer wall can be straitened up if you have the intake that tapers smaller near the roof. If you have the intake that is square at gasket area already, you do not even need to touch the outer walls at gasket area. The cross section at gasket area is already bigger than the restriction in intake and cylinder head so making gasket area larger does NOTHING but slow down the air at this point and make it have even more of a change when speeing up to the restriction areas.
Remove material from ski slope in roof and try to get the cross section to at least match the cross section at the PR pinch of the cylinder head. Most of the gaisn are from this.
You can also widen the runner .100-.120 where it meets the plenum to allow the air to slow down and make this turn easier at a higher HP level.
You can also remove material from the floor and make it match the shape of the roof. This allows a larger cross section at inector ski slope and also corrects the L shaped angle from where intake port of manifold and intake port of head meet each other and makes the transition of the two much easier.
Open the TB holes and remove material from side walls to make the air have more of a strait shot in.
Here are some pics . . . . .
http://www.mowhineracing.com/ch22.html
Lloyd
03-16-2008, 08:31 PM
#19
The intake i got on my car right now came off a car running lt1 castings. It went a 9.7 1'4. Stock 97 gaskets fit no problem. There is some expoy around where the stock fuel injector hump was but it was not hogged at all. The intake however has twice the plenum volume as stock.
