Billiumss

iTrader: (11)

If some of you have been paying attention to some of my posts lately, I've been asking questions about a 6.0L block and doing a 402 or larger engine. I always wanted to build an engine and I want it done right the first time.

If I decide to do this project next year, I was thinking of powdercoating the block, but I have a few questions first...

Since this is an iron block and I don't drive my car in the rain or snow, (sometimes I might get caught in the rain though for short times) if I don't powdercoat the block, will it rust?

If I do powdercoat the block, should I do it before or after any machine work?

Would high temp paint work better/last longer than powdercoating?

Thanks for any advice/tips in advance!!!

ls1290

iTrader: (20)

I would use engine paint before powercoating.

DaleMX

iTrader: (4)

Powder coating has to bake at 400 to 450 degrees. I would think you should powder first, then machine.

1999_SS_M6

You never paint or powder coat anything *before* you have it machined... The whole point of powder coating is to make it look nice, and it's not going to look nice after rolling around a machine shop floor and getting the bejeezus scratched out of it every time they lock the block down in a jig.

Powder coat is going to hold up far better than paint, PERIOD. It's more resistant to petrochemicals, heat, and abrasion. Not to mention the lusterous glossy sheen it has looks fantastic.

Be aware of the cost though. I'm sure you don't have an oven large enough to coat and bake the block yourself, so getting this done is going to cost substantially more than a $10 can of high-temp engine block paint.

Vents

iTrader: (9)

the 6.0L iron blocks allready have a black coating on the from the factory to resist rust and corrosion. pretty darn close to powdercoat if ya ask me. save the money for machine work. trust me, you'll kick yourself later if ya dont.

crguy7

First off you can powder coat a block but it WILL NOT LAST! Talk to any machine shop and they will either tell you that they wont do it or they will do it but they will not stand behind it. The reason that powder coating a block doesn't last is because cast iron is relatively porous which will allow oils to work its way under the powder coating and then it starts to bubble and eventually peal off. You can go ahead and powder coat it but be aware that it will be expensive and it WILL NOT BE PERMANENT! You would be better off painting the engine with high temp engine paint.

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

Do not forget that it with all the block coated it will not dissapate heat very well and like CRGUY7 said it will rust underneith and flake off over time. Just a thought though.

DaleMX

iTrader: (4)

I know you can get all the oil out with multiple heat and clean cycles, but as I stated earlier I would worry about the heat warping the block. 450 degrees is hot for a block to withstand for an hour, especially if it cools down too fast.

The point about the machine shop trashing the powdercoating is a valid point too, so why bother?

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

I wouldn't do it.

Air21

hour? its 20 minutes... anyway most engine builders wont work on one that has been powerdercoated because of the possibility of core shift

1999_SS_M6

^^^^^^^

Core shift? They're not CNC'ing the block, how would that even apply?

DaleMX

iTrader: (4)

Thought you mentioned machine work.

Air21

doesnt matter if they are cncing the block, they are heating it up to 450 degrees, things start to happen when things get abnormally hot

WILWAXU

iTrader: (6)

Wouldn't powder coating retain more heat?

extremecorvette

I have a block for sell that comes honed, new hardened Dura-Bond cam bearings, and new ARP main studs. Some people think the dry sleeves are better than the wet sleeves. I called Darton who makes the dry sleeves for Agostino racing and the wet sleeves. The tec said the wet sleeves are far better and can take more abuse, and that the dry sleeves are milled very thin to get a 4.125" bore. He said Darton has been using wet sleeves for years in motors that make over 1000 hp with out any problems. Also with the wet sleeves you get better heat transfer. Morgan Machine Shop are setting the motor up for me. Naturally aspirated cars with 427 CI are running the ¼ mile the low to mid 10's, with NOS there hitting the mid to hi 9's. I would be willing to go 3000 shipped. I would be willing to go 3000 shipped.